I’d like to go whichever route is fastest. Sounds like ordering a new upgraded shaft/bearing combo from you (without shipping mine to you) would be faster. I don’t mind the price difference. I’m Pm’d you my phone number. I’m up late. I would like to place the order asap via CC or whatnot. Or if you paypal, shoot me a Pm with the info. Thank you again.
Upgraded input shaft arrived today from old house boater. Looks great. Here’s a few pics for comparison before I install.
Question? I feel silly asking this.
Is the C-clip no longer used? There doesn’t seem like there will be be an available slot for the clip to slide back in after the oil seal is installed (see bottom pics).
Edit: assuming he c-clip goes in before the seal?
Grant had some pic of the install after it was done, photobucket isn’t hosting the pics anymore. It’s a travesty.
Is C -Clip used?
The "C clip IS used. Install the seal against the clip facing in toward the gear box
As Rodney stated, that C-clip holds the shaft and bearings in place so it’s required. For the seal, you can see there is a metal spring on the inside of the seal? The side with the spring goes in toward the bearing. When installing, be gentle and spread out the force if you can. get the seal flat and then use something like a piece of hard wood across the bearing and tap gently, move the wood to the other half and tap again, then move 90 degrees and tap, over to the other half and tap. keep going until the outer surface is flush with the outer edge of the transaxle. And the wood must be hardwood. if it’s soft wood then it could deform and start putting pressure on the inside of the bearing instead of across the outer ring.
Rodney, do you concur? I’ve done this dozens of times, just never had to tell anyone else how to do it.
Question?
I’ve never done It! What keeps the shaft in place if there is space between clip and bearing? Does it need shims?
Surely the rubber bumper isn’t tasked to do this.
Update, car is back together and running. It is amazing how quiet it is. The clunking noise disalpeared with the new bumper. I was sure to use some antiseize/grease on the splines. The clunking upon reaching top speed or starting off from a dead stop has disappeared.
However. The input shaft I got wasn’t useable. No fault of anyone’s. It looked like a great piece. Upon installation, it was found that a tooth on the inout shaft gear (that had some work done to it) was ever soo slightly “off”, and caused a noise when rotating through the gears. Luckily I caught it before I even installed the C-Clip.
Rodney was super cool about it. He refunded the purchase immediately, and sent me some new higher grade bearings for my trouble, as that was his last shaft. I’ll run this bearing combo with my current shaft until he gets more of the upgraded type.
I’ll be pulling the motor again when the bearings arrive.
Getting quick at this now! It’s a good way to be learning.
Amazing what changing out that bumper can do! I’ll finish out the pic tutorial once the new bearings arrive and I get the motor pulled again. The weather just got nice here in AZ & the fam wanted to cruise in the meantime.
Good to hear and I too was able to get rid of the clunking with the rubber bumper BUT the clunking came back in about a week. I too got one of the bumpers with the coarse/low spline count ones for $10 from NEV Acc and I think it’s so weak it gives way to shaft movement quickly. If you used the one posted in the pics above, please let us know if the clunking returns in the next week or two.
Doug put a dime behind the 10 spline bumper.
Note: Resist the impulse to use any think thicker than a dime. Any thing thicker will cause the bearing to run hot and your magnet will melt.
Rodney
yes, I did that Rodney as I saw your previous posts to others about the dime trick. It ran nice and silent for a week or so but soon was back to clunking. I too noticed the one removed fit into the 19 tooth spline motor hole very tight while the replacement was a 10 tooth spline count bumper and fit loosely into the hole.
these are common bearings you can go to any supply that sells seals and bearings and get them for $3 or $4 bucks doesn,t make any diff, if they are sealed or not just pop the rubber seal out
Update/Checkin:
The rubber bumper is toast again (even w the dime) The car is clunking from a stop, while re-applying throttle at speed, and in reverse. Also has the “bruck bruck” sound again when it hits the limiter. Will replace w/ new bumper when I have the motor pulled. Reapply spline grease. I’ll be replacing both input shaft bearings as well. Gear oil was changed last time I had it out.
The car is still “hopping” (rhythmically w speed) even after having a shop lathe the brake drums. I now have a cracked Cv boot I noticed as well. Could a faulty CV joint cause a bouncy/hoppy ride? It’s not horrible, but it’s noticeable audibly along w the hopping. The hum of the motor…Rum, rum, rum.
Has anyone else experienced that?