K - Just to be sure, also pull the R/g wire.
Any change?
Same thing NO change
K- Go over to the PWB. Locate and remove the 1x 16 pin connector along the bottom edge. (Dash should go dark now)
Pins are numbered 1 (black wire) to 16 (white wire)
I am interested in pin 6. (this is the return from the key)
If you look along one edge of the collector you will see little windows in the side. If you lightly press in on the metal tab on window 6 (Org/g wire) you should be able to pull that wire out of the collector.
Replace the 1x16 connector back on to the PWB. (twin white wires on right side).
Verify that the dash is still dark.
Still NO change with wire on pin 6 out of plug.
Ok, Then this is confirmed, There is nothing wrong with your Key loop or wiring.
It appears the PWB has a transistor or relay shorted to ON.
I might have an old PWB here. Let me see if i can find it on the board.
Q- Do your headlights, turn signals, brake lights work?
Front cap is off but all tailights, brake lights, and signals work. Have not put front back on to check headlights
K- This tells me the 12v ACC is also stuck ON (without the key switch).
I’m trying to determine best place to do some sort of override/hack.
I can switch the controller Off/ON easy enough, but if you accidently leave your lights on, you might come back to a dead car.
Thanks, this is definitely a safety issue
For now, If you pull wire 12(Gray/w) out of the 1x16 connector(this is the “wake” signal to the controller), it will shut down the motivator.
Just connect it to the B+ (+72v) when you need it to go on again.
A convenient place to find B+ is that big nut/post with the big orange cables.
The Purple wire and Black wire look like the 12v acc power for a radio (if your car was needing one).
Usually it is just a purple power wire.
Diagram says Vio/red is possibly related to a power wire from the fuse block. Not sure why it is tied together with the Violet.
Disconnect these two. It might be doing some weird backfeed thing.
Ok, pics show that it is made and Im getting 12v power @ purple jumper. Probably for the radio as mentioned. What i found is when i test the orange wire @ key switch im only getting 4.8v
So i checked and when you turn blinkers on the voltage goes 4.8-12v back in forth?
Also seen a 5th wire @ headlight plug on harness green/yellow looks cut or just a optional wire?
Re-Checked variable voltage and the orange key wire only varies on Left Turn signal. Goes from 4.8v - 12v
- Ignore that Y/g wire down at the headlight plug. It is extra/not used.
- Re check that test on the Org key wire. It is normal to get very odd/irrelevant readings when you don’t have the correct reference. That Key Loop wire is B- switched when KeyON. This means you need to have your Ref probe (from your meter) on B+ as a reference. KeyON will have -72v, KeyOFF will be near 0v.
Your test is hinting that it is getting some backfeed noise/ (probably from the DC Converter) because you were using ChassGnd?
Hooked black lead from tester to B+ and red to orange wire i get 64.2v
Red to green/red wire get 71.1v
Describe Org wire? Which wire is this?
Does it cycle with KeyON/OFF?
Orange /green key wire
I have tried all combinations of ign key switch wires but NO change its getting power from somewhere to operate cart without a switch being plugged in.
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