I thought we were advocating the 12ga solution…
Black is grounded good. Green has power all the time, key switch changes nothing. If I leave the headlights on, they time out after 30 seconds or so. I disconnect the black wire and they turn back on. Where do I go from here? Relay is wired correctly?
Clarify -
- What is the reading on your meter?
- What is the other meter probe touching?
- Follow the green wire, Where does it go?
Also Test the green wire on the timer relay.
13.1 is the reading. Negative probe is to a black ground wire. Reads the same at the timer relay. Green wire goes to the charger.
Wiring to relay posts looks correct.
Voltage on the green wire is correct, but it should cycle with Key.
Negative probe is to a black ground wire.
Which black ground wire? Can you meter both of these wires going to this relay?
From this realy- The green wire should go to/join the green wire from the timer, then go to the charger. ← Yes?
Show pic of the timer wiring.
Show pic of where the green wire connects to the charger.
Here are the pictures as requested. Green wire splits off the timer and goes to the relay on one side and the charger on the other side. I previously jumped the red/green striped wire with the solid green wire to bypass charger interlock, but that did not do anything.
That’s actually really clean for any gem, for a pre 2005, that’s llike so clean it sparkles.
No really. I’m actually being serious this time.
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Obviously- the key loop is not acting right.
To me- it looks like the wiring update was not installed correctly.
There are wires running around to some unexpected places.
If you are still stuck, try this:
First- pull the connector apart here:
This should be the last part of the key loop.
- MainSwitchON
Verify that dash display is not active and headlights do not work.
Then go to the timer.
Pull the connector with the Orange wire off a little bit so it exposes the tab, but still leaving the connector on the tab.
Do the same with the Green wire connector.
Jump the Green tab to the Orange tab. (use alligator clip jumper or small piece of stray wire)
→ Verify the dash display lights up, and the headlights work. The car should also drive.
Confirm (Y/N?)
Remove the jumper from the tabs, the dash display should go out, and the headlights will remain ON for 20 seconds then go out.
Confirm (Y/N?)
I disconnected the green wire. Jumped the orange and green wire as you suggested and yes the cart works, however it still shows the -90 on the gauge that it did when I jumped the relay. I connected the green wire back together and tried it again and it was the same result. It still seems as if the key switch does nothing though. Seems that jumping the relay or timer relay both allow the car to run in a sort of limp mode, but I still cannot sort where the issue is coming from to allow the car to function as normal.
yes the cart works, however it still shows the -90 on the gauge that it did when I jumped the relay.
This was discussed/explained back up in post 7 ^above^
It appears you missed it? Here is snip:
There appears to be multiple issues going on here.
That might mean your temp sensor is unplugged.
If the stock motor has been changed, It might not have a temp sensor.
If no sensor, the wires in the harness plug needs to be jumped together and the -90 should clear.
Look down near the motor for a two wire connector(temp sensor) bundled with the 3 wire connector (speed sensor).
And post 13:
The code -90 is a separate issue not related to the key switch issue. Go look for a Motor temp sensor. It is unplugged.
It looks like you were going to do some checking and I do not see where you came back with results.
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Stay on topic
I still cannot sort where the issue is coming from to allow the car to function as normal.
My last post was only the first in a series of many more to follow. It was a test, not a fix.
If you want to continue, do only what I ask, and do not stray off the instructions trying 3 or 4 other things. There is a high possibility of smoking some expensive and difficult to find components if you are doing random messing about..
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Be more clear
I connected the green wire back together and tried it again and it was the same result.
Also, when possible, be more descriptive of results. This comment is unclear and could mean exact opposite results on my end. It will force me to generate another round of posts to clarify what you mean, or head me off in the wrong direction.
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Skipping parts
The jump test (with green wire pulled) tells me your new timer is functioning.
You missed the other part of the test. (You did not return the results of the headlight/accessory test).
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Next test:
Looking down at the green wire that goes into the bottom of the charger.
The other wire looks like a RED/g? That should be the wire from your key switch.
Probe that wire with your meter. You should get switched 12v. (reference ChassGnd).
Confirm → (Y/N?)
IF 12v remains constant (regardless of key position), then pull off the lower section of the dash pod and examine wiring on the backside of the key switch.
[Include Pics]
My apologies. Was trying to get you some quick info over my lunch break and did not intend to complicate things.
For the -90 temp Sensor wires. I do not see the two wire connector you’re referencing.
The green wire you asked me to disconnect with your picture of the red arrow, I have done so and left disconnected.
The headlights shut off just shy of 30 seconds (I used a stopwatch)
“Next test”
Yes the other wire is red/green. I tested it with a chassis ground. Nothing with key off. 13.36 with key on.
I have attached a photo of the wires on the backside of the key switch just in case there is something more you’d like to see with it.
Yes the other wire is red/green. I tested it with a chassis ground. Nothing with key off. 13.36 with key on.
This indicates that the key switch is working.
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Bypass the charger interlock.
- KeyOFF
- Connect the Red/G directly to the G wire from the timer. (leaving charger wires disconnected)
- Note the status of the Dash Display. (it should be off)
- KeyON
- The dash Display should go active, the car should drive, and the headlights (accessories) should work.
- KeyOFF. Display should go dark, and after 30 sec - the headlights should go OFF.
Verify (Y/N)?
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Code -90
On top of the controller you have a 23pin main harness connector.
Show me a nice, clear, well lit pic looking down on the rows of wires. I need to single out/looking for a specific wire.
Connecting the red green directly to the green and leaving them disconnected from the charger did exactly as you stated above. Verified Yes.
If you need a different or better angle let me know
I thought I might be able to spot the wire, But I need a better look at the bottom row.
Specifically Pin 21. Is there a wire or empty space?
if yes, what color? Can you follow where that wire goes?
It is a red wire that is jumped to a grey and white wire on what appears to be pin 2. Without tearing the whole wiring harness apart it appears the grey/white wire it is jumped to goes to the 4 post relay.
Ok. Some guys do it that way.
I find those guillotine taps (used on the grey wire P2) are sometimes/often flaky.
See if you can wiggle that connector off the tap and connect it straight to B+ (left post on top of the controller) and see if your -90 clears.
Else- Give the wire (where it goes into P21) a little tug. (There is a chance it may be a wire shoved into the connector hole)
I was able to wiggle it off and connect it to the B+ and still shows the -90. Also gave the wire in the 21 slot a tug and wiggle and it is in there securely.
Ok, check the other end.
- Main BattSwOFF
- Remove the 23p harness plug. (pull out on the retainer tab a bit to release.
- locate P23 from the controller side. Inspect closely (possibly use a light?) and confirm the pin is fully installed (compared to the others).
(ignore the blue arrow that is pointing to pin1)
