I have a 2020 GEM e4 that I just replaced a Battery Temp Sensor due to having a fault code 520358…problem solved. However, just a few days later the same car is now not able to move R or F, but dash is fully illuminated with a new fault code of 168;4.
168:4 code…System Voltage Low, This Trouble Code Sets if the System Voltage is Too Low after the Engine has been Running for a Specific Period of Time. Can be caused by Damaged Wiring/Connections or a Faulty Stator/Regulator.
Has anyone come across this problem and had resolution? I can go to the 3-terminals (U,V,W) for the stator leads on top of the motor to check for continuity and even check the motor’s temp sensor…but that all checks out. Does anyone have any suggestions what I could do/check next??
Paul
Can you put a meter on your battery and get a reading on what your pack Voltage is? Clamp it directly to the posts and take it for a ride, mash it, then see how much it drops.
Then clamp your meter to your controller and see if it is the same, or drops lower when under load.
When was the last time you plugged it in for a full charge?
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AssyRequired, thanks for responding. The car will not move forward or reverse, no action. The instrument cluster shows full charge, but tomorrow I will physically check at the battery pack to confirm it’s true. When the key is first turned on, the instrument cluster "flickers’ just momentarily/very briefly but illuminates fully and has the one fault code of 168:4. I will check fuses tomorrow as well, which I should have done already. There is continuity between the 3 U,V,W posts on the motor and open from those posts to motor casing. There is a resistance reading on the Motor Thermal Sensor (not open nor direct short). I have not checked anything on the Motor’s Speed Sensor. If it’s not one of the fuses/relays, then I am at a loss how to proceed with troubleshooting. Help?
Did 2020 still have the aux battery burried in the dash?
Yes sir. it does. I connected a cheap battery monitor LED readout from the Aux Bat Posts and placed it in the same hole as the USB plug, that way I can turn ON/OFF the readout to see what the battery charge is without having to take the dash-lid off every time just to check on it. On the same Aux Bat Posts, I included a ring-terminal wire NOCO (charger) connector to SAE connector that I snaked into the glove box just in case I need to charge the Aux Bat…again, w/out having to take off the dash-top. The USB port is still connected as before, I just zip-tied it to something inside the dash being unused.