Is your DC/DC converter working? I will send you diagrams.
How can I verify if it is?
I have 73 at Pin 1 and Pin 2. What else do I need to check?
12/13 volts at out put. Check your email
Got it and going through steps. On Step 4 - When checking Pin 2 - With Key Switch Off, must equal 0 Volts. I get full pack voltage.
What do I do now?
Is anybody available to answer this? I get 77 volts at Pin 2 with key switch in off position. What do I check or do at this point?
Which is it? Is it hot wired?
Okay… So I started tracing lines and figured out that it is my ignition switch. When I take the 2 wires at the ignition switch and hot wire them then the cart works correctly. Was able to hot wire in the on and in the off positions. Volts in Pin 2 went to 0 when hot wired and in the off position.
Tomorrow I will install a new switch. Fingers crossed.
Installed new ignition switch and it worked. Had power everywhere. Things were great… until I put the covers back on. Once I had the cart put back together, I had no power at switch again.
3 amp fuse in Fuse Box was blown. Replaced it.
- 76 volts at Pin 1
- 0 volts at Pin 6 when Turf Switch is off
- 76 volts at Pin 6 when Turf Switch is on - but buzzer sounds
- 0 volts at Pin 2 with key off
- 0 volts at Pin 2 with key on
Have checked fuses. They are all good. At a loss as it worked until I put the steering column and dash back together.
Okay… I got the power and switch to work. Traced it back to the charger. All good now.
Now, I am having some 12 volt issues.
Wiper motor is barely working.
Horn is weak.
Back tail lights come on with ignition.
No brake lights.
No head lights.
No turn signals.
The relay in bottom right is getting really hot as well.
Anybody know why at this point?
Have you run your VIN to see if there are any recalls open? One in particular covers the DC/DC converter. If your converter looks like this
It’s been recalled and Polaris will replace under warranty. Check nhtsa.gov I believe.
Thanks Reddevil. It has been replaced previously.
We are getting +72 volts to ignition switch… Does that seem right?
Display comes on for 3 seconds and then goes off.
To the key switch? If so that doesn’t sound correct but I am not the authority on it, one of the others Will know.
I have a new DC converter ordered. Will post after that is installed.
Hoping you can help with my interlock issue. I’m doing the Schott to Delta Q conversion on my 2002 Gem. There are small, think gauge black and yellow wires coming out of the Delta Q, and I believe that’s for the interlock. The cart won’t run right now unless the Schott is still plugged in. I know there are two wires on the 8 pin out of the Schott that are supposed to be for the interlock- could you tell me which ones? I have black/yellow, red/green, and green/black. I do not have a conversion harness.
Wait for it.
JarJar, what say you?
Lol. Dave, that would be hilarious, maybe I’ll have you change my user name to “JarJarJava”.
It’s already done in my mind.
The thing is, it cant be changed back. Only once every 10 years.
Hey Matt, being an 02, there is special procedure.
So, what you need to do is find the two biggest wires and place an incendary device between them.
Then fall back about 30 yards from the gem, shoot it, burn it (remorely detonate the device), crush it with a bulldozer, and finally, shoot the pieces into a decaying orbit around the sun.