I have a 2003 E825 that I have installed a rebuilt controller i and the main contractor will not close, and it gives a -15 code which is suppose to indicate low battery voltage but i have recharged them and measured 74 volts on the top of the controller. Also the buzzer sounded until I disconnected it. I have checked everything I can think of. I have a lifetime of trouble shooting electrical equipment but this has me stumped!
Sounds like multiple issues going on.
- Code 15
I find it odd that you are getting 74v at the controller when you say the main contactor will not close. Which terminals are you measuring? 74 still sounds a little low for just charged batteries. Are you also having problems with your charger?
What are you getting for power at the main contactor or at both ends of the battery pack itself?
The controller actually takes a reading off P1 at (Key ON). It looks like it may be going through fuse 3. Check all fuses just to be sure.
- The Buzzer was trying to tell you something. Just disconnecting it does not fix what it was trying to tell you.
What is the status of your e-brake? It is common for that little switch to cause issues and keep the car from moving.
One of the batteries is very week and that is the reason for only74 volts. I read the 74 volts on the B+ and B- terminals on top of the controller with the contactor open. Now that you mention it it is suprising that I could read it there. I used a digital meter and they often read leaked voltage and miss lead one. I should have backed up the reading with my old Simpson.
I removed and cleaned the switch on the parking brake. It now testes OK.
Yet, you are surprised at a low voltage error? Explain.
Something has happened to 1 battery before i owned it and it does not hold its voltage well but the 5 others do so the total voltage comes up to 74 volts. The voltage of each battery is not monitored therefore the control should not lock out until the voltage drops below 70.
Dave
…which is probably what’s happening under load.
I’ve recorded 275A +/- momentary loads on my '02. That’s going to tank the voltage of all the batteries for a second, especially the clapped out one. That could be enough to trip an alarm.
Got a DVM with min/max recording? Hook it up across B+ & B-, activate the recording and mash the throttle. Scroll through the readings before disconnecting the meter.
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So why not fix what is obvious and maybe the other issue will be satisfied?
You continue to be hopeful saying the pack comes up to 74v but you do not say in what conditions. Is that under charge? What does it do when you unplug the charger?
As jrjava states, under load is another story. You will be surprised how far the volts drop when loaded even just a little bit.
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That with charger unplugged
.
How long after coming off charge is that reading being recorded?
I tried to reply from my phone but don’t know if it worked.
The reading was still constant the next day.
Something that is making this more difficult is my electrical diagram which is suppose ti be for my year 2003 shows a printed wiring board PWB which my GEM does not have or any sign as ever having. Therefore i do not have a P2.
In your diagram, what else does that PWB have going to it? How many wires? Where are they going?
You might be looking at the DC-DC converter which originally was an open circuit board but was swapped out for a closed box.
-Or-
You are looking at the early version of the PSDM (Power Source Distribution Module). Its the Brains/Logic of the car.
In either case, that is not the board you need to test P2.
You need to page to where your motor controller is.
Find the physical unit on your car. Is there a label or a sticker on it? If not- can you post a pic?
I’m guessing you have a T1 or a T2.
P2 is Pin #2 of the 23 pin connector.
But that is probably getting ahead of yourself.
Did you do replace that weak battery? How far does it drop when you put a load on it?
Can you do load test of your whole pack and do a reading?
Lets start all over and not wast time chasing rabbits. I assure you the batteries or the charger are not the problem. After much testing this are the significance facts that need to be addressed.
I get a code -15 even though there are 74 volts. I can measure this voltage across b- and b+ cables as well across the motor controller with the contractor OPEN.
The conatctor does not close with the brake released (the switch has been checked)
If power is jumped to the coil on the contactor it will operate but the cart will not move.
Let me explain my bad feelings of not finding the problem with this car.
.I was the chief troubleshooter for 5 strip mines each operating machines that cost millions of dollars. In 21 years I never found an electrical problem that I could not solve. This Car has me beat!
I have not be able to find a wiring diagram that matches this cart.
PM me your email address.
1999-2001 used T1
2002-2004 used T2
They look identical (bare aluminum shoe box like w/ all collections on the ends) the aux data connector on the “top” is the fastest way to tell them apart, the T2 had a 12-pin, the T1 had an 8-pin
Model / part # will be on a small while sticker on the mounting rail / feet. It’s a long number, last two characters indicate T1 / T2 or D2 (ford think).
Found under the dash just right of the steering column.
IIRC, only 5 pins are used on the data connector, so swaps are possible. I believe that Rodney has done this at least a few times.
T3 - T5 all look similar and nothing like the T2. Not even sure if they will run in the 99-04’s.
The controller references battery voltage at pin 1. Pin 2 is 72v from key.
If p1 is lower that 64v when key is turned on, showing no pre-charge, contactor is prevented from pulling in.
This helps prevent damage to contactor and caps in controller.
Summing up, measure p1, if code 15 and over 64v then the internal reference in controller might be bad.
This will often show up in Sentry sw as the 12v bus being out of spec.
P15 is 12v tachometer supply. Should be over 10v.
P9 is a 5v supply for throttle pot that is derived from the 12v bus.
Ps.
Controller also reads voltage on coil driver p11. I don’t have access to factory information, and can only relay what I have learned through trial and error.
So I don’t know if pre-charge is from p1 or p11.
Ps. Ps.
I see you replaced controller. What was the reason for that? Same code -15, low voltage on p1?
Thanks for all your input. I have other things I was doing today so did not work on the Gem other to look at my controller and saw it is a 1C3645Sh7R353t2.
There has been some suggestions that the voltage is falling under load. That can’t be the case since I can’t get it under load. I can’t get the main coil to pick up.
MY email address is dave14073@gmail.com
That’s the T2 controller.
I sent you everything… I think… Might have forgotten one GE manual, I’ll check tomorrow.
I finally gave up and sent the controller back to the re builder.
@Dave14073 when you turn that key SOMETHING has to energize that large electro magnet in the contactor along with power up the 12V converter so there is a load on the battery pack the second you turn the key. Granted, it is not a 5HP motor type of load but it is a load.
Your really need to swap out that one dead battery, even if temporarily, and validate your problems continue to exist. Troubleshooting with anything but a 6 battery system is a going to be more like a cat chasing its tail than anything else.
And you never did reply to the question of why you rebuilt the controller in the first place.
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