I’m finally going to try the 2001 Prius wheels and tires on our 2002 GEM and was wondering there the preferred Jacking Points were on the rear? I’ve heard the rear swing arm setup is fragile and I can’t imagine it would want to be torqued by jacking it up close to the brake backing plate.
I expect the front Jacking Point is in the center somewhere but specifics might help prevent damaging something.
For the front, I’ve always put the floor jack under what I guess qualifies as a front crossmember and then put the jackstands further back under the rails. Jackstands are not necessary for changing a tire, just for when you are crawling under the vehicle.
I have a truck model so my rear suspension set up is a bit different with trailing arm and the axle being straddled by a front and rear shock with multiple pivots per side. I typically lift at the axle / lower shock mount - this only elevates one side at a time which I feel is safer for the vehicle with my sloped driveway. I could set a jackstand for the axle if necessary
From the manual - not really all that helpful…
Thanks! I used the front point you mentioned and it worked well for both front tires. Since I added the disc brakes, there were spacers which had correct size studs and the Prius wheels and lug nuts fit perfectly. My old GEM wheels would not fit on the front of the Prius though… I have one side of the Prius on blocks and the other is wearing the spare tire. So my 2 front GEM tires/wheels went onto the Prius rear.
I’m still not sure where to jack it up in the rear and will try the frame back there. BUT, I have to find a place to drill out my lug studs and insert larger diameter ones so my stock Prius lug nuts will fit.
I’ll hate seeing my old 2001 Prius head to the recycler but will be nice seeing her wheels and tires on the GEM. A really nice fit and look.
Does the rear axle look anything at all like this, minus the dual shocks?
On this one, you can lift under the shock or at any junction on the tubing. You could probably lift it in the center, I’ve just never bothered - it’s a long way in from the end of the bed, not really effective pumping on the floor jack handle.
Can you just press the old stud out, open the hole up a bit with a carbide and press the new one in? it’s not like you are going to be going that fast a millimeter could make a difference.
PS: are those pie cutters 12" - if so, LMK if you want to sell a few.
Yes, the rear suspension looks like that. I’ve read others finding cracks in the structure when there is much twisting so I was a bit concerned about jacking up one side or the other… Thanks.
I read in another thread that the default wheel studs are M10 but M12 studs will also fit the same hole. That’s great and I’m hoping someone with previous experience in this has a NAPA part number.
what are 12" pie cutters? hub caps or original wheels?
You could also lift from the frame rail that it’s attached to.
Thanks for the tip about possible cracks, I’ll have to inspect mine.
By pie cutter, I was referring to the original solid rims and how they resemble a pizza cutter.
I agree, going off the aluminum frame crossbar (closer to the center of the car) would be better unless that is too far forward as the suspension can move on you. Also consider chocking the front wheels. These cars don’t weigh a ton but enough to ruin your weekend should something go wrong.
The Rear Sub Frame is 100% fine to lift from.
Do search on this Fourm to spot the traditional sub frame cracking points on the Early cars. Many people including my self have repaired and added gussets to make the rear end stronger and avoid cracking in the future.
Thanks, I searched for “subframe” and found the following thread. Bummer the pictures don’t show up though. It also give me a place to look to see if there’s any cracking yet.
Thanks @RS_E6, I figured that out but was searching for what GrantWest mentioned about, ie looking for a thread on the subframe reinforcement and cracking issue.
Gotcha, I found this thread for you but it doesn’t show the repair in detail.
