Dan not sure what size the holes that I had drilled were but if your good with mm conversion the sholder on the new larger front studs was 14.15 mm. So the drill he would have to be injustice a but larger them 14.15 Mm or you cab just keep drilling out the drum till the stud sholder slides into the larger holes your drilling
The stud shoulder should not slide in, it should be a press fit.
Daniel: sound like I might have created a bit of confusion.
The studs are pressed into the hubs. The drums slide over the hubs as im sure you know. The larger shoulder on the stud is larger then the hole in the drum. So the holes in the drum need to be enlarged. Iām sure if you found a stud that the shoulder that was as not as long and protruded into the drum their would be no need to drill the drums.
I understand now. It must be because you have the older 10mm hubs. GEM never sold those drums separately, so the holes are likely to be smaller to match the smaller studs. We now know that replacement studs are readily available in both standard and extended length and that the older 10mm brake assemblies can easily be upgraded to accept the far more common 12mm studs and wheels. Thank you for sharing this information. The new part numbers have already been added to the thread below:
http://www.electricforum.com/cars/neighborhood-vehicles/2626-lists-alternative-superseded-parts.html
Daniel
Old thread but hoping @grantwest remembers doing this and maybe still has some NAPA part numbers.
My 2001 Prius died and the 4 lug wheels and tires fit great on the front of my 2002 GEM with the disc brake upgrade and spacer kit. BUT, my rear need M12 studs and it sounds like thereās enough hole/shoulder on the GEM M10 studs so the standard M12 studs fit in the same holes?
Any updates on fining studs which require no reworking of any rear brake parts? Thanks!
You can drillout and make the M-10 holes slightly bigger OR just Force them threw
I did that on a few installs. You simply slide the stud in and then use a few larger NUTs as washers and stack them up and then thread on a M-12 lug nut. Using a impact driver you can use the M-12 as a press to PULL the stud threw the drum and into its final resting spot.
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I donāt have a reamer nor know the size I would need so I will end up try to pull the stud through. I donāt have a hammer drill yet and in the past just used breaker bars to pull studs into place using lug nuts and spacers as you mentioned.
Iāll do some disassembly and measuring to find out the length Iāll need and see what the local auto store has. Thanks.
Yes it can be done with a breaker bar and placing the drum in a vice, itās just a whole Lott easier with a Electric impact gun. If you donāt have one I can highly recommend getting one. After you have one you will be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner.
Taking wheels on and off is a breeze. Busting free rusty nuts is a snap! Makes tough jobs much more pleasant. Iām to the point I wanna buy a cheep one just to have I. The trunk of the car for a emergency flat tie change. I had a flat a few months back and the factory jack and factory lug wrench is a complete joke.
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Ya, I got to use one a couple a years ago on something and remember looking for a few weeks for a nice kit/deal but never ran across one. I have a full Ryobi 18V tool kit with 6 big lithium batteries and I converted my Makita drill to accept the Ryobi batteries. And the impact drills are also much smaller and lighterā¦ I NEED ONE for sure.
Iāll get back to looking for a Ryobi one and see what turns up on Labor Day weekend for sales at HomeDepot.