If you have the rear rail, how long are the horizontal aluminum rails (not including the plastic end caps)? I know the vertical rails are 13" long based on the side rails. I’m missing the rear rail for my short bed so I want to get one fabricated locally.
I’ll source the 1"x2" aluminum and cut it to length then find someone to weld it for me. I’ve been looking for a reason to get into welding but welding aluminum isn’t a good way to start.
I’d be happy to buy one too if anyone has one available.
Hey Mike - I was going to get a net or use some aircraft cable with turn buckles but came across some photos of a short bed with all three rails. I think that will look and function the best so now I’m committed to that.
Polaris wants close to $400 for a new one but it should be simple to make. There are plenty of good aluminum welders here from the marine industry. Shouldn’t be hard to find someone to put it together. I painted the side rails in that bed liner product I showed you so I’ll do the same with the rear.
I’m also hoping to find a quality used truck tool box to mount back there for secure storage.
It is 46" I just redid the caps on mine, I put the caps on the bottom of the uprights too, hope to make it rattle less. I bought new ones from Mouser at about $.61 each. Make sure you get the right ones for the thickness of the tubing you use. the ones in mine we for thinner tubing and were really crushed.
Thanks for the info and the heads up on the end cap. I was missing one end cap on my side rail so I ordered it from Polaris along with some other miscellaneous parts. Once I buy the aluminum stock I’ll test it out To see if I need a different size.
On my side rails the bottoms have a plate welded on with a threaded hole so you can secure the rails with a screw through the bottom of the rail receivers. I assumed the rear rail was the same.
I assumed the rear is made to be removed, no plate on the bottom, as least mine did not, the parts list should show if a bolt goes in there if is made to be attached, or you could add it if you want to bolt it in place
I was thinking of having the plates welded on so I can lock it down. We leave it parked in public for hours at a time so I try to limit things people can mess with or walk off with. For my usage I don’t see needing to remove the rear gate often.
@BuckeyenDE if you get another chance would you mind measuring the length of the vertical bars (minus the end cap(s)) on the rear gate? I just realized the brackets mount lower on the rear compared to the sides so the gate needs to be taller to line up.
I found these tie down mounts in the parts catalog. I’m not sure if they are meant to bolt between the side stake receivers and the bed or if you just add them wherever you need them. Hard to say from the diagram if the bolt holes line up but that would be nice. I was considering adding them to my next order.
I have those on the side rails, they are nice and 48" bungees work great diagonally. Using them on the end panel might not work as they may not be tall enough unless they have taller ones made for that application.
Cool, so the holes line up with the stake receivers? The kit only comes with four so I don’t think they intended them to be used on the rear and like you said they would be too low.
I plan to get a bungee net to help keep things from blowing around.
I have a cargo net also, you could add holes just for those hooks offset for the rear, be cool to have them on the bed back by the rear seats, you could really strap things down then.
