Dang, George just returned from Georgia. His partner may be going through there though.
Free shipping if you meet the driver.
@Inwo - I am coming around to the lithium upgrade. It just makes sense. I will certainly be willing to meet someone in GA to save the cost of shipping a battery. Are these Lithium packs you offer new, used, or refurbished?
What else is involved? Do I need to send you my QuiQ charger and controller for reprogramming? Building a platform in the back to support the lithium pack wouldnât be a problem. Thatâs right up my ally.
Sean
I can see where my drivers are. Always a mystery. Im not a big priority with them. There main gig is delivering new carts around the us from Mn. I hitch a ride when i can. It just so happened that i gave them each an sdi22 last week for stock.
These are nos Korean made Samsung sdi batteries. 22s about 80v nominal. Easiest install in 2005 to 2015 Gems. Needs only a shelf board to sit on and connect the two battery cables.
30 mile range est. Results vary with speed and terrain. Dq charger works as is. Will work better with thermistor replaced with âspoofâ, included. Or reprogramming, free.
My current price is $2750 plus $200 fedex. I accept cash payments only.
Cash Payments only now?
No more PP/Venmo/Zelle? (whatever?) How is that going to work?
I know its all trackable and a taxman nightmare but small unmarked bills through the mail doesnât sound safe either.
replaced with âspoofâ
To keep the charger mod from being confused with the speed enhancement device i have been calling this the âtweakerâ.
Cash payments can be cash venmo, cash paypal, zelle, bank transfer, certified check.
This is not for tax or reporting reasons but to prevent fraud.
A client wanted battery for free and disputed cc payment through pp. It worked. Pp refunded him and let him keep the battery. He even told us that he did this before with other major purchases. Pp will not step in for seller protection. Told me its up to buyers cc company now. 
Seriously?!?!?! That is just not right.
Who was this- Just in case I run into the guy.
Heâll get NO help from ME!!!
Oooo! Even better. Maybe some real bad advice?
1 Like
Case details
Case ID:
PP-R-ELG-454976160
Disputed amount:
$2,750.00 USD
Buyer info:
Jay Claflin
jayclaflin@gmail.com
Shipping address:
1001 Crying Hill Dr
Mandan, ND 58554
Date reported:
July 21, 2022
Transaction ID:
Transaction amount:
$2,750.00 USD
Additional Info
Note from Jay Claflin:
1 Like
1 Like
@Inwo â would you mind sharing what ânosâ means in this case. Iâm assuming new-oldâstock. Have these packs been sitting on a shelf unused for a long time? I donât know if thatâs a big deal for lithium, so I am interested in learning.
Only a year or so. Current production batteries.
Better than fresh as any cell with oner average self-discharge will show itself.
@Inwo â
I am still working to return these AGMs, but since I bought them out of State there is a logistical element I need to deal with. Before I send them back, I wanted to get one last confirmation. Will changing the charging algorithm to â32â on my QuiQ charger be sufficient to fully charge these batteries? You mentioned âreprogrammingâ the charger would be best. Is this 32 algorithm what you were getting at, or is it something else (like mailing my charger off to be modified)?
Also, do you know if AGMs hold their charge and then âdrop off a cliffâ when they reach their limit? Or is it a more linear degradation? On my initial run with these AGMs, I was holding a good charge (4-5 green bars on my SOC) and in an instance they all disappeared and went to the red bar. I ask this because I wonder if reprogramming my charger would even matter, especially if AGMs behave this way.
Feel free to share your thoughts @AssyRequired and @JarJarJava.
Sean
Balone-
Perfect- Thanks.
The way I see it-
You need to AT LEAST go back and change that failed battery. Unfortunate that you need to drive 900 miles round trip to do it. Waiting any longer will only make the exchange worse.
Some deep soul searching is in order to see if you are willing to spend the time and fuel for one battery, but better if you go figuring you will be returning all 5. Hopefully the guy on the other end will be understanding.
To dodge the driving hassle you could do some further testing on that dead battery and make sure it is failing. Chances are high that you will still find a failer(or hurt) battery but there is a (slight) chance you could get it back into balance if it was just a fluke(I am an optimist). This path will result in still using these batteries. Or perhaps you can absorb these into something else? Slide a couple into your RV/boat/tractor?
I could not find a real data sheet(graphs) on your batteries within easy grasp. so I am only guessing. Using the Gel setting probably wasnât fully charging your AGM cells to full potential, but I donât have enough info to say it did not hurt the other 5.
Either 13 or 32 would be a better choice.
It may have had part of why your V dropped off the cliff but for sure the low battery had alot to do with it.
Thanks @AssyRequired. The place I bought the AGMs from is willing to ship me another to replace the one that dropped to 10.3 volts. They are also willing to give a full refund as long as I bring them all back (a very long drive I already did once). Based on what has been posted here, Iâm wondering if itâs a smart move to keep the AGMs even if I eventually have six good ones and I change the charging algorithm. Perhaps itâs just better to bite the bullet and go lithium. I just donât know enough about AGMs to make that decision which is what prompted my question above to @Inwo.
The guy who sold me the AGMs insists heâs sold many to GEM owners without any issues. Not sure what, if anything, they had to do to get them to work properly.
Yes. Itâs a very good tasting bullet BTW. Puts a smile on your face every time you mash the loud pedal.
Edit- I wasnât ignoring you. This one took a while to sort my thoughts.
Not sure what, if anything, they had to do to get them to work properly.
It all depends on how you define âworking properlyâ.
It really depends on what you want your car to do.
The AGM batteries will work for a while but I couldnât tell you for how long. I personally donât like them for an EV Application. I think they are worked too hard and doing something they werenât really designed for.
I put a set of AGM into my truck (f250 Diesel). They were toast in 2 years so they didnât last any longer than the others.
AGM is still based on 40 year old tech. Itâll work. If you are perfectly fine with the way it was running before then your present rig will be fine (once the dead battery is replaced).
IMO- AGMâs are not really rated for the high amp loads that EVâs tend to consume. In a low use scenario they may be fine. Performance/range will taper off slow enough you probably will hardly notice. If you treat them right they may get 2~3 years? Maybe more? Heavy/daily use you will probably be looking for another set in a year.
Ask this same Q over on FB and youâll get a bunch of opinions saying AGM is fine. They also say they get 25 miles out of their pack(which I cant see how).
âG Eâ
A friend of mine mumbles this all the time when he sees or completes something that he is not really happy with. Usually when examining mediocre work. He knows if could be better but it serves itâs purpose. It is short for âGood Enoughâ.
This forum is populated by some of the smartest Gem people on the planet. Some of the still active members have roots going back many years(2011?).
Point being- You are asking for advice from characters that are 100% biased. Not that it is wrong, but more from the view that we have all been there, struggled with, and found the whole LA/Wet/Gel/AGM technology lacking for our needs.
The way I look at it- if LA was a good thing, why isnât Tesla (or any other serious car builder) still using them? They all have moved on. Yeah, I know- Apples to oranges. But it makes one think about the difference between a âsenior mobility vehicleâ and an actual functional and fun vehicle.
Great advice @AssyRequired.
Can anyone speak to how the lithium upgrade actually makes the car go faster? Sure, I can understand why it would accelerate faster without all that extra lead acid weight. But what about top speed? My governor promptly kicks in at 26mph to ruin all the fun. Does the controller need to be reprogrammed to adjust the governor. Would messing with the governor risk over-speeding the motor?
I have the vehicle legally registered so I can take it on roads up to 35mph. It would be nice to get a few extra mph, but thatâs not as important to me as reducing my range anxiety.
Sean