New Battery yellalab

The R$F charger is just a rebranded QuickCharge SCO7210. F2 and F3 should both finish around 91.8v so you should get pretty close. Maybe set it for d2 to lengthen the gassing/absorption timer so the pack gets more time to charge. Have to watch your BMS to answer that though.

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A bit more info that I didnā€™t feel like typing up last night. I have an R$F in my old 2002 also and I donā€™t really want to spend money on a new charger for it right now, so Iā€™ve been digging around to see what the SCO 7210 / R$F can do. This is what Iā€™ve found.

Here are the charge curves for the QuickCharge SCO. They push the voltage to 2.55v per cell for FLAs. vs others, like the Zivan NG1 for example that only terminates between 2.35v and 2.45v depending on the temp sensor (if itā€™s connected)

Iā€™m not sure exactly how the lower internal resistance on the lithium ion batteries will play out here, maybe Dave or Michael can shed some light there, but the 7210 should get you a lot closer to where you want to be than one might think. @Inwo @LithiumGods

This is profile F2 (bulk charge - gassing - Terminate). The blue line for wet cells / FLAs is what the R$F/7210 uses. 2.55V x 36 cells = 91.8V. Watch your BMS at the end to see what your individual cells are doing, and based on that / where they finish, you might have to set it to d2 (extended gassing cycle) also to get a longer time at the end. This is with r0 = terminate.

Below is the F3 & F4 curve (bulk charge - gassing/absorption - maintain). Again, if you set to F3 (FLAs), you get 2.55V x 36cell = 91.8V. Although Iā€™m not sure if you need or want the 78.12V maintenance (@Inwo please advise). Side note, in QuickChargeā€™s literature, they actually advise that short of sending the charger in to have F5 programmed, that if you had a 24S LiFePo4 pack @ 3.65V/lifepo4 cell = 87.6V, you could use F4 which finishes at 88.2V.

Below is F5, just for comparison:

Just for shits and giggles, I think Iā€™ll call QuickCharge later this week and see if they can or are willing to program F5 to a higher finish voltage for the 22S packs that we have rather than the lifepo4 24S finish that this curve represents.

I would just try it first. May be fine.

The wiring of the battery and BMS seem to be pretty straightforward. In my E6 the cables that are under the middle seat need to be addressed.
The cable marked B3+ connects to the fuse terminal. And the cable marked Pack- with other connections runs to the front. Should these two be connected together to complete this circuit!!


That one marked Pack (-) should be the one going to your new battery (-).
Inwo marked it a few posts above as Gem B- cable.


You have one stray cable going to the fuse block marked B3+ , but is there anything going to the other side of the fuse block? Are you bypassing the fuse?

Tony,
This is how I wired the BMS according to your instructions. My problem now is the cables under the middle seat of my E6 where 3 eight volt batteryā€™s once resided. One marked B3+ goes to the fuse block. One marked Pack- (with small wire, eye connector) goes to the front. Do these get connected together to complete the circuit?

The BMS is connected to the fuse block on one side and B3+ is on the other side. I have 3 unconnected cables:
Pack + under the rear seat where the battery is
Pack - under the middle seat where 3 8 volts were.
B3 + under the middle seat, goes to the fuse block.

I would reach out to Dave(Inwo)
You have. E6. I have a E4. Not sure about the middle part. Sorry.

My application worked for me. Good luck

Update: I reached out to yellalab for a direct convo just to be sure he is getting everything together correct. He was quite close and helped him trace the last few wires.
He is working on a few things and will report back.
Stand by.

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Here is my concern with r4f charger. They are the old style transformer based chargers. These chargers work in a fairly narrow range. The problem I see is when the pack starts to charge from a low state. It might over output, add in the low internal resistance and Iā€™m concerned the charger will put out too much power and could eventually damage it. I have spoke with the manufacturer and he did say they are adjustable but for the high voltage packs, they would not work. I would suggest giving him a call to discuss. Assume 3.2v per cell on the low side and 4.10 max on the high side.

I am going to be installing a few of these packs in the next 2 weeks. If have the time I will try to charge with the DQ on lead to see how it acts.

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AssyRequired held my hand and we got the battery installed, BMS working and currently charging, (while monitoring BMS). Spoof installed also. Thank you everyone who added to this thread, the help was very appreciated!

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Thank you Michael.

Itā€™s been said before, but Iā€™m going to say it againā€¦ You and Dave are a treasure trove of knowledge and experience on these matters. And, Mike and Rodney too in their areas. Weā€™re lucky to have you guys around.

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