Does anyone know where to get reasonably priced A arm bushings from? I need to replace all 8 front bushings on my 08 elxd and $13.50 each from NEV seems way too pricey to me. Or does anyone know what the dimensions are for them and I can track down cheaper suppliers.
Thanks
Derrick
Any luck on that A arms I need to do both my A arms and shocks. Troy 714 356-0255. Im going to look for some options today
Check out the thread I started, new upper and lower a arms. The bushing from a 98 arctic cat 300 4x4 will work.
Nice man. Really appreciate the feed back. I’ll take a look and give it a go. Have a great day D!
I would just like to note that i can’t guarantee those bushings will work because I have not actually replaced them but I have no reason to see why they won’t. If you read that other thread you will see the upper a arms are very close and will completely bolt in place minus the shocks.
Ok no prob. I’ll spend some time looking at my options
I would think a place like Summit Racing could get you some bushings. It would help if you had a original bushing out of the car that you could take some measurements from. Or just order 1 from NEV Acessories to take measurements from. 
That’s a good idea. Rodney said he was going to look for the info, for the place he used to buy the nylon ones for me. I’m also looking at options since I had to hack the upper a arm. I think most of the play in the front suspension is from all the shock and control arm bushings being worn. It would be nice to make it more stable for those moments when I enjoy the speed. LOL it’s hard to not enjoy a golf cart going 45+ Mph. Even up hill it was able to cruise 40mph.
Can’t need much tuning then. What else are you looking for? Rpm must not be maxed out. Is that the limit, or only the safe limit?
Maybe you need taller gears to load the motor.
Trust me it needs plenty of tuning. That’s just where it ends up. The take off needs some focus and Regen is missing 100%. It’s weird cause with the torque all the way down, the take off is better but yet it doesn’t like going up anything from a stand still. Gears and 16” or 17” wheels will be on the hit list as well. In comparison I took the old D&D 33-35mph starting with 82v and the battery had some range. Today starting off with 93v seemed like it sucked all the juice out and I didn’t really go that far. I’ll have to try Grants method some more to get a full 98v charge cause the profile was hard to change for me. It was luck that I was able to change it once. LOL On a serious note I’ve been really putting some time and thought into this upgrade and I’m sure with some tweaking on the controller settings it will be fast strong and still have range.
How did you make out with bushings?
I have 3 for the shocks from Rodney but I still need 1 more so I’ll improvise for now. As for the A arms I ordered all 8. Lol not cheap. The hardest part is getting the bastards to press in. But I almost have all of them pressed in.
Did you order them from NEV? And are they the same as the original ones or do they look like the purple ones in the post above?
I didn’t notice the pic. I think if I need to replace them in the future ?? LOL I’ll look at these for sure. I went through Nev and spent the money.
For the A Arms they are the original ones. But kinda of a pain in the ass because the bolt sleeve sticks out a bit on both. Sides. So you need to have some open space on the other side as you push it through the arm.
Not sure if you tried this yet, put the bushings in the freezer for an hour or so and if your wife will let you, the a arms in the oven at 180 degrees. Make sure the oven is preheated first. The expansion and contraction of the parts should make this much easier to install the bushings.
After all that bushing work I’m going take off both top A Arms and find some thing that has an adjustable camber.
@Troyin909 - Did you ever end up finding something with adjustable camber? I’m currently in the process of replacing all the bushings on the car but I have severe positive camber on the front wheels and I’m not sure new bushings alone will correct it. The bushings on my shocks are garbage too so that is the next thing I’m looking at.
I did a test job on my control arms and I plan to clean it up but I can say it works. Same concept if I needed to push the wheels out from the bottom arm. You can see the before and after in the pic.
I was hoping to avoid modifying the arms and wish it was a simple as adding a few washers to the old style knuckles. My wheels have similar or maybe even a bit more positive camber than you had negative.
Have you converted to lithium? I’m thinking if I replace all the bushings and address the shocks my camber should return to normal unless the weight reduction from converting to lithium is part of the problem.
