87 volts, 3.5v/cell, or even 3.4v per cell is near full.
The 3.7 is absolute max if balanced, but could be way too high.
Find the first cell that goes high, if it’s been charging 4-5hrs at 12a they should all have 60ah in them.
The ones that are not as high have slightly more capacity, but range is dictated by the smallest cell. No need to put more into the rest after one is full. IMO.
@LithiumGods has a different and possibly better method of filling them all and letting them empty at different times. Try this first. KISS
I ship them empty. A good place to start.
Such a clean install, a shame to connect balancers and mess it up. 
Besides, this is my only hope to get @Old_Houseboater on board. He will only go for a drop in swap.
Went out, measured a few including the low cell and it was up to 3.3 so I gave it a test ride.
Folks, it’s been said here before by smarter people voltage makes all the difference. Excited at the torque.
It is definitely a drop in, with a screw gun and self threading fasteners needed to anchor. Some make a clamp kits and you are done. Moving the kill switch made hookup simple.
Back on charger and in an hour or so will record all the voltages again. Will not leave plugged in overnight.
@LithiumGods how do you spoof the state of charge indicator? If only voltage it will always read high.
packs take 6-7 hours depending on soc . the Deltaq will shut of after full so you can leave it plugged in .
i haven’t done a conversion on an early so i dont know how to sppoof the gauge . The lates you can adjust easily . There is also a voltage setting in the t4 and t5 to adjust voltage for display from 72v to 80v . I haven;t used it but if it exists in the early controllers try it
Charger went to a steady green after about 6hrs. All were at 3.43 so algorithm #3 apparently won’t overcharge. I am going to drive a bit to see how this works.
@Inwo you mentioned balancers keep it at about this same level, maybe I don’t need to add with this setting. Wonder how much range I am leaving on the table? Would think it may make them last longer?
If changing the charger was easy I would try other settings but now gonna give it a few days of testing.
Thanks everyone
The balancer does nothing below 3.55v.
The idea is piece of mind after you stop measuring daily.
It will also allow higher charging without worry.
After work today, it had been sitting off charger (it went solid green last night and I unplugged).
All were at 3.330v except one at 3.331 and one at 3.329v.
Hard not to spin the tires now, lots of pep.
Very easy conversion. Will run a bit longer on current algorithm #3 and see how range goes. The dash battery indicator has not moved off 100% so that may be an issue to fix. Going to do a 10 mile r/t tomorrow to see how they hold up if it doesn’t rain! In LA in May…
3.43 with a good saturation is probably 98% soc . i tested one that shut off @3.45 . it took less than 1 amp to get to 3.65 . These cells will always fall back to 3.33 after charging stops
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We should keep these threads at the top. There are still discussions of lead battery care. As you know some need water, and all outgas with accompanying corrosion.
We need them to come to the light!
If I could ship lifepo4 with the shunts on them, it would be a safe drop in lead replacement. I could even cycle them first.
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Curious to hear how the range test goes.
If that pans out, there might be a set of 1 month old Deka group 31 heavy duty marine batteries available in NorCal for a substantial discount. LOL.
Been cold and raining in LA so haven’t done more than about 5 mile r/t and it’s been much peppier than with FLA mainly due to voltage difference. Will do a longer trip this week. All in all I am very happy with these.
Calling BS, it never rains in LA… 
No worries, appreciate you posting about it when you can.
With deep respect for anyone east of Palm Springs, but today in LA:
Record low temperatures recorded today:
@flyLAXairport ties at 50°. Last set 5/27/1953.
@fly_BUR ties at 46°. Last set 5/27/1946.
I’m a warm weather sailor, I can guarantee it’s coming.
Tried to drive this AM but overcharged past 86v and got a -16 code (over voltage).
It only happened because I tried to top it off with a bit of charging for 45 minutes prior to leaving, something I use to do with FLA.
All was fine when I got home since as @LithiumGods indicated these cells stabilize at 3.33v
on the Gem that has 25 cells , the voltage would be over 85v right after charger turned off . 5 minutes with headlights on and code 16 would go away .
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Took it to work today, 5 miles door to door. I usually plugged in at work, today I didn’t. It went home with same pep and energy as coming, something I like better than the slow decline in performance from FLA.
Checked voltage at home, all were within .006 v, low was 3.280 and high was 3.286v
They were all at 3.33v this AM leaving.
Also, while the he motor got hot to touch, no connections on the batteries were warm.
@Inwo this set up rocks. Thanks!
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Ive got to agree that a lithium high voltage conversion makes much more sense than replacement FLA or gel batteries. Look at bolt/volt/leaf conversions.
Not to mention, usually cheaper!
Spread the word!
Thanks for the range info. Hoping that you might get some longer trips in sometime.
Is the battery percentage display still an issue or did you get that sorted?
Mind if I ask what motor, gear ratio and tires you are running?
I’m trying to figure out if this upgrade will work for my needs.
It has a R4F blue motor, 14” wheels. Have no idea of gear ratio.
BDI still says 100%
Limiter cuts in when speedometer reads 28mph but GPS indicates speed is around 32.
@Inwo, would this be suitable with the 25s pack?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F143233612355
Currently have no monitoring beyond periodically testing cells individually and all are close.
Thanks
Yes, although it does nothing for the cell levels.
Also find a 300a model. 100 is not enough. Wireless are not much more money. A “donut” model is easier to wire. No shunt needed.
@LithiumGods can pick one for you.