Just bought a 2013 GEM e6 getting errors

Hi all,

I finally pulled the trigger on buying a 2013 GEM e6. I was able to get it all charged up and tried getting it to run. It seems to have a T5 controller in it as the controller (2015) catalog number on the unit ends in T5. It has a GE 7hp 5.2kw DC motor in it.

After I turn on the key on the dashboard, I get a small click from the relay and the service indicator on the display shows error 24. If I step on the gas pedal, it changes to an error 11. Does anyone know what I should do to start troubleshooting? I’m starting from ground zero in terms of my knowledge on these vehicles. Thanks!

Hi MikeKC,

Thanks for the link to the code list. I’ll see if I can run a few tests by fooling around with the accelerator pedal. I don’t have any mats or anything in the car at the moment so the pedal is free and unobstructed. Hopefully its not a faulty motor controller! Is there any recommended steps to diagnose if it is indeed a faulty motor controller before taking it out and sending it to someone?

Thanks again for your quick reply!

The accelerator pedal on 2013 model are pretty reliable, rarely fail. It probably is the controller. They are about $400 to have rebuilt.

Ok, I’ll look in to taking it out and sending it out for a rebuild. Thanks!

@Inwo might have an idea

@Inwo I’m all ears for any suggestions you may have before I take the controller out. Thanks!

Also, I most likely need to replace the batteries on the car and I’m considering going Lithium. I don’t really need a ton of range or speed, just using it for short hops (5-10 miles a day at most, more likely less than a mile on most trips) if you have any recommendations on which way I should go there.


It seems like a controller problem, but bad batteries and switch connections can set random fault codes.
Most likely shorted field fet. Imo

I don’t have any small 72v batteries at present. If the green lfp batteries are still for sale it would work for you.

What causes the FETs to poof?
Excessive motor arc?
Bad connections?
Random EMP?
Not switching to AC?

The field fet’s have a pretty easy life. No brushes in the circuit and low current. They switch the output polarity through a full bridge circuit, and pwm to control field current.
My guess is that it’s just random failure. It’s possible that it’s any of the above.
Of all the things that can fail the easiest repair.

I tried making sure that the controller was really at fault yesterday and something weird happened. I was checking connections on the F2 controller connection and noticed it was real loose. I crimped the spade connector a little to help make a better connection and then went back to the car and turned on the key switch. It turned on and I heard the “thunk” and the car motor started working. I then put it in reverse and it was able to back up. Then I turned it off and back on and couldn’t get anything working again. I went through and cleaned all connections to the controller and still couldn’t get it to work again. Could it possibly be something upstream like a bad connection or relay? Is it possible that a FET could start working temporarily?

Interesting… Is it still giving you the same error code/s?
Just to try to repeat, If dirty, I’d probably wire brush those little tabs and maybe add a spritz of contact cleaner/wd40 and a good wiggle and try again.

Otherwise, maybe it’s a cold solder joint inside the controller.
(Wild Uneducated Guess)

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Yeah, I tried everything, I went through the entire controller and all the wires going to it polishing up the connectors until they were shiny using fine steel wool. Tonight I’ll test the FETs to see if they are shorted. It seems that some water was able to leak down in to the controller at some point via the F1 & F2 terminals. It wasn’t horrible and nothing looked fried, but perhaps that what led to the FETs potentially burning out. When I put it together again I may give everything a good coating of dielectric grease.

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