International Battery LiFePo4 green batteries

No, I tried reprogramming the Delta Q charger that was in my GEM already, and I couldn’t seem to get it to change modes, plus there was some kind of additional wiring, (Voltage spoof?), so we just pulled the Delta Q charger and additional wiring from the donor cart, and swapped it straight into ours.


LIPO battery packs require Lithium profiles tailored to the number of cell in the pack. Standard chargers need to be custom programmed.

To prepare to change the algorithm on a Delta Q on most GEM cars you will need 2 pieces of insulated electrical wire about 6 feet long connected to a momentary pushbutton switch.
The reason for this is that you will be flat on your back where you can see the indicator lights on the DQ while changing the setting.
Let’s get started.
Shut the main switch off.
Disconnect the red wire coming from the charger at the B+ (battery plus) post.
Connect one of your pushbutton wires to the post and position the other end under the cart in a comfortable position.
Connect the other wire to the charger red wire…
Turn on the main switch.
Get under the cart in a comfortable position where you can plug and unplug the charger.
Reach up and plug in the charger. The indicator will flash the current code for 11 seconds in yellow then time out and flash red.
Unplug the charger for 15+ seconds to let it reset.
Plug the charger in and push the button for a bit less than one second (count 1-1000) ¾ of a second is too short, more than a second is too long. If it continues to flash the algorithm for more than 11 seconds YOU’RE IN!!!. If it red lights, you have to start over.
When you’re in, you have 2 minutes to tap the button for a bit less than 4 secounds, count 1-1000, 2-1000, 3-1000, 4-unh. Under 3 seconds is too short, over 4 seconds is too long. If you got It. it will flash the new algorithm. If you red light, start over.
Repeat until you reach your desired algorithm. THEN
Hold the button down for 10 seconds, or until you hear the charger click indicating your new setting is stored.
Unplug the charger and shut off the main switch. Remove your setup wiring and connect the red charger wire to the post.

Thank you for the info! We’re on vacation until the 4th, traveling around the country, so I’ll try this when I get back.
Is there any issue with mixing the amount of packs of front, (Now 14), Vs the pack array under the rear seat, (10)?
A quick check on the cart before we left showed one more pack under the “Hood” showing that it’s now open-there was zero voltage reading. Initial inspection and troubleshooting also points to one of those balance boards possibly not working, (Green light not on).

This is EXACTLY what I don’t want to deal with, always chasing down random failures.

Looking over the forums a while back, I saw something about a new A/C motor conversion, and the neverending modifier in me perked up when I read a little about that, but I didn’t read enough about it all to get an understanding for what that entire conversion would look like and cost.

Since we already have a modified T1, and the RFF motor, just putting in a simpler, higher capacity battery pack set up under the rear seat is what I’m leaning towards.
The other option would be to buy 2 of these green batteries from you, which wouldn’t change the Delta Q profile, and then start the diagnosing of the new code 41.:man_shrugging:

I run 84 volts with 7 95 dollar batteries and a Spoof. first 6 batteries are charged with the Delta Q the 7th with a 6 amp 39 dollar charger. Over 40 MPH or over 20 miles range, if I keep my foot out of it, Cart rides good Cart is a brick for reliability. Cant make it any simpler.

I gotta say some of your problems are self inflicted. When you have miles of wire and bunches of connections, with watchdog black boxes, you have to respect the requirements of the technology. By not having the appropriate charging unit you might have fried some of your cells unnecessarily.

My upgrades cost me a battery, 10’ of #4 wire a Spoof a Magic Magnet

And a cheap 12 volt automatic charger, KISS Yes I do plug it in every night.

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Looking for newest and greatest? I’m getting ready to list a complete battery system.
Includes plug in harness and bms.
Like this one but 112ah. A little lighter but twice the green cells range. Lcd and bluetooth cell monitor.

$2000 complete. 20s takes 5 modules to replace 6 lead. Add another anytime for 22s or 24s.
80v 84v 88v

Yes, you are absolutely right, just jumping in and out of dealing with this GEM sporadically has definitely not been ideal, and very likely messed things up unnecessarily. Too much going on in the real world here to devote to becoming an “Expert”, and trying to second guess the real experts here on this forum. I’m grateful for all the time all of you have spent here helping bring me up to speed!:pray:

$2k for everything we need to essentially plug and play, (Batteries/BMS-etc?) Does this still allow use of the Delta Q, or does that need upgrading? Hearing conflicting reports of them being good, or being terrible, so not sure.
As for voltage, how do I determine what voltage I want to run at? Does running a higher voltage shorten controller and battery life? I’m assuming the T1 will eventually fail, and then I’ll have to figure out what the latest/best controller is, and hopefully the battery system I put in is running the closest ideal voltage to work best in conjunction at that time, (Unless the two are not related or an issue either way?)

Yes, I built a custom harness with proper plugs to battery modules.
Each module is 4s (cells) 14.6v nominal. 5 * 5 = 73v.
Maximum safe charge voltage is 4.15 * = 83v.
Your DQ charger can be programmed to proper voltage. There is no better charger than DQ. They can fail as can anything. With millions out there, you hear about lots of failures. Most are water intrusion.
If you are interested, I’ll connect it to bms on the bench and show you the display and cell volts.

Batteries are protected 2 ways, charger setting, plus the bms. If any one cell is full, bms stops charger.

I’m trying to post all the info in “for sale”. For some reason I can’t start a new thread.

More than likely that I forgot how. :slight_smile:

Maybe you got hit with a banstick?


I’m really liking the looks of those new battery numbers!
Keep me in the loop on this- Yes?

There are only enough to build two 73v batteries. The only other available seem to be 73ah. Or the over priced eBay ones.
I can do money back on the first one. At least until I get time to use one myself. I’ve used every chemistry and configuration out there. These are best ever.

What’s an approximate lifespan of this setup? Is it ready to go/for sale now?

Need only connect 5 modules in series, check cell levels, and discharge for safer handling.
Had them connected once before to test harness. Bms just came in yesterday. I don’t anticipate issues, but never know for sure. :slight_smile:

The 105ah version of these. Tested 112ah @ 10a rate.

Also, I didn’t understand what you meant by, “I can do money back on the first one”?

Send it back if you don’t like it. Shipping is high, but what else can I do?
Can send a single module for you to look over and check fitment.

Here’s a lesson on the green LIFEPO4 setup. I may not be the right guy! :slight_smile:
To start, safe range is 2.5 volts to 3.7 volts. This is each cell, meaning you can’t charge to x * 3.7 and be safe. The lowest capacity cell can go too high before the others are full.
Top balancing goes a long way to preventing this. But then the lowest capacity cell can go dead, reverse polarity and die, while still having good pack voltage.
The shunt/monitor boards don’t offer protection. They do help you to see how the pack is working.
1.5v green led comes on = good cell. Red comes on about 3.6v and gets brighter showing full cell.
Once red comes on you must stop charging or measure cell volts to be sure it doesn’t go over about 3.75v.
A balanced pack will stop charging before a cell goes too high. (red led is ok) The shunt boards assist in keeping balance by draining 500ma of current from any cell over 3.65v. This will keep a balanced battery with all good cells working without attention, but can’t “fix” a grossly out of balance pack.
It often takes me a week of testing to get the pack where it needs to be, but one time over charging or discharging, means starting over.

Ok, back in town, and time to mess with this cart again.

What’s the current status/availability/price of one of your new battery systems?

Sorry, sold out for now. Putting the last one together now.

Totally no worries, feel free to let us know if/when you have a kit ready to go, thanks!

There is a set of green batteries for sale by a member.