Looking for an ignition switch “after market” for a Gem 2s 2014-16 that won’t brake the bank. Don’t like paying $100 for a $15 part. HELP
I have used this one before (I think) - search Amazon for “Key Switch”
Not even two-fiddy. Don’t get much cheaper.
My car came with a paper clip that the driver would jam into the plug.
My switch has 4 wires. 2 are closed when switch is off and the other 2 are open. when the switch is on they are the other way.
As the late, great Alex Trebec would say: “Please phrase that in the form of a question”
Are you confused at your opportunities?
The answer lies with the two wires that are open when the key is in OFF position. Test this by the ability to remove the key. This test is complicated by some lock sets with the feature that allows you to remove the key in either position in which case I would pick the universal standard of rolling the key forward(clockwise when looking at the key) to turn it ON. CClockwise to turn car OFF.
Looking at your harness you should only have two wires. Polarity should not matter.
Am I rambling?
Makes perfect sense to m… SQUIRREL!
When i said my switch has 4 wires my Gem also has 4 wires connected to the switch.
I assume that has to do with the E brake alarm but don’t know if it has any other functions?
Scrolling back I see this is for a 2014-16 car?
Sorry, My bad.
But I don’t think I heard those going bad.
Post a pic of that switch, connector, and what you picked up for a replacement.
What made you think the original had a problem?
On occasion when turning the switch on nothing. Turn off and back on and all is good. Another time I turned it on and nothing and jiggled the switch and it came alive. This has happened about 7-8 times and one time took off normal and about 100 yards it shut off and switch off and back on and OK. Also I described the switch wrong. It has a 3 wire pigtail with small round female pins. Memory was 4 pins but I was wrong. I found my notes I drew of it. The car is in Fl. and I am in Nc. for the summer. Sorry no pictures. Tried to find it on line but no exact match part # ECI/T-205-ILC112 . I find look the same but last 3 #s “112” are not he same and are for fire/elevator apps. It has 6 pin places “3 sawed off” and and another 2 with with no pins - 8 spots total. Any help thanks .
Sounds like the standard switch. The car harness only uses two of the wires. You only need the NO contact. Any switch will do. Tricky thing is finding one narrow enough to fit in the housing without too much hacking.
It has been mentioned several times in the archives that a standard Key switch from Napa KS6040 or KS6115 will work in a pinch.
You could wait until you get out there again so you can get another look at it and grab one off A-zon such as the one Mike linked to.