amazing info
thanks 
I want to go the lithium route on my 2008 E2. But need help on which battery pack to get. Chevy volt, Nissan leaf etc… also which BMS you recommend. Who will reprogram my Delta Q to charge lithium?
Sorry for all the questions!
"I can do your charger
Yup- Planning a Lithium swap takes a bit of planning and research, and a bit of shopping. How much of a hands-on owner you are will factor in which direction you go. Sometimes you can find a local guy that will help with sourcing the cells or pay for shipping. Be aware that there are a few sources you should be aware of and stay away from.
If your present pack is good, just cruise them gently for now and figure out how you will use your car. Keep an eye out for something while you dabble on other areas that need attention.
Oh- and unless you are adding new info to a discussion, mostly it is best to start your own NEW thread instead of tacking onto one that may be years old.
Thanks for the recommendation, on a new thread! The hands on is no problem i am a service technician for commercial gas and electric cooking equipment. I work with all kinds of control boards, solenoids, sensors, etc… I just need to know the route to take, trying to use experience from guys here on best set ups etc… I appreciate your prompt response!!
I believe that @LithiumGods is out of everything. Ask him.
Stay away from Ebay unless asking here first.
V3 only leaf are good.
Chevy Bolt, Volt, and Spark are well documented.
Certain BMW and Ioniq ok.
If budget permits, I have an 18kw 22s Tesla3 battery. 100 mile range is way overkill.
2008 will be crazy fast with 24s anything. 88v nominal.
Some green LIFePo4 may be for sale on here.
I think Roman has a good set of green battereis
Would you be willing to share the settings on your T4 or T5?
It’s kind of a long story as to why, but I have to keep the DC motor in my '10 eL for a bit longer, and so I was trying to get regen working earlier today. It kicked in a little, sort of feel it and can occasionally see the BMS shows some power being returned to the pack, but no where near as much nor for as long as I would have thought. I currently have #19 and #20 both set to 30. Even setting them to 1 wasn’t anywhere near as impressive as what you described.
Wondering if I missed a setting. Could #5, plug braking at stock value of 128, be interfering? Or is the DC regen on these just not that impressive?
Vehicle particulars: '10 el, 5hp long GE, T4, 23" tires, 2p22s (IIRC) Chevy Volt pack @ 88V. (this is INWO’s old truck)
Terrain /geography here is similar to yours. It’s almost completely flat aside from a three freeway overpasses.
Thanks
I put plug braking down to the lowest level, it is hard on the motor and controller so prefer not to use it.
Regen is controlled by #9, #10 , #19, #20. 9&10 set amount of power the motor can regenerate and 19&20 the amount of regen. So put 9&10 high, but 19&20 low(the lower setting is the most regen)
Also regen turns off below 10 miles per hour
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Thanks for the tips.
Plug braking didn’t sound all that healthy to me the way they described it, thanks for confirming.
This is what it looks like now:
#5 - plug braking - 0
#9 - regen armature current - 245 (how it came)
#10 - regen field current - 255 (how it came)
#19 - pedal down regen decel rate - 30
#20 - pedal up regen decel rate - 30
Definitely felt and also saw on the BMS when it kicked in on a pedal lift going down an overpass at about 27mph.
Well, that blows donkey 'nads. Guessing there is no way around that? And, if you’re running with an MM, wouldn’t it almost never kick in then? Or does it forget all it’s rules when you set it to KPH?
I don’t actually see the BMS indicate regen by displaying a positive wattage if I’m below 20 mph. I think I kind of sorta feel the vehicle act differently on pedal lift deceleration than it did prior to the adjustments, but that could just be wishful thinking. Maybe it’s not a great enough value to display…
Try turning on regen with the switch on p12. I never see any discussion of the affects.
For all I know there may be no pedal- up regen, only regen on command from brake switch.
Easy enough to move the switch to the throttle if it works.
I’ll take a look at that Dave, thanks for the idea. It’s brake pedal down regen that I’m not sure about. I definitely had pedal up regen when I was going down the backside of the overpass at 20+mph, what I don’t recall was if I was on the max speed limiter or not when I pulled off the throttle, and what, if anything happens when I’m under 20mph with this cart. I’ll have to check if proxy switch you left in there on the throttle arm can be used for testing this.
The mm is going to raise the limit that regen turns off. Maybe in the high teens compared to 10mph. REgen set to its highest on my Gem is way too much, You jerk forward when it engages. It has the latest version controller(T5) and a 7hp motor. I believe the 7hp motor makes the biggest difference. I ahve always set pedal up and down the same but am going to be testing some different setting soon, so will keep you posted. After driving my wifes Tesla for a year, I want the Gem to have regen like the Tesla does. Once you get used to it, you don’t want to go without.
I don’t have a Tesla, but I have an AC drive forklift that I had the tech program for one-foot driving, it’s pretty sweet … and I even stayed at a Holiday Inn once too.
I can’t really duplicate that much coolness on the T4 w/ long GE 5hp, but I at least can get a little regen braking.
Been having difficulty getting BT to work on my BMS, so I’m unfortunately not getting very detailed power information. But after more testing, I can see that it does behave like you said, staying on until it drops to about 10mph, it just isn’t as dramatic as yours with the fan cooled 7hp at the lower speeds. It definitely decelerates quicker now when you don’t have your foot on the accelerator.
Thanks for the help.
I think I figured out how to make regen stronger and why it is different from one Gem to another. Don’t know if it still something you want to do.
I’d love to hear it if you are willing to share it Michael. The DC drive system’s days are numbered in this particular vehicle, but that doesn’t mean I might not have a use for the information again in the future.
#10 is max armature current during regen, it is the inverse of #4. raising this to max should allow for more current to pass and more regen.