Help with Zivan Charger Replacement

Oh yeah… Heh. I guess that wasn’t pointed out yet.
(assumed you knew?)

On the top of the old Zivan you had a few plugs and wires.
You are holding the Output wires in the above pic. The big orange wires.
You are also holding the Input Plug. (120ac).
You are quite aware of the temp sensor/LED plug (Round DIN plug) that may or may not still be hanging around in there somewhere.
But- You probably forgot about the Interlock wires. These are there to keep you from driving away with the power cord attached. They need to be connected together for the car to go. Since the charger is missing, these wires are disconnected and your car will not go.

Look around for two wires with .250 female spades on the ends that don’t seem to have a home. One of them is Red/grn and the other is Grn.

Connect them together (with maybe a 10a blade fuse?) and you are good to go.

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THAT’s a great idea!

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Yes I didnt know. Ive played with batteries before, but never replaced a charger. I figured some circuit had to close. That fuse jumper was a great idea!, I popped a 15a blade fuse in, taped it up, turned the key, and CLUNK! Yes!! As soon as I heard that, I knew I was good. Thanks so much for these details.

Ran her up and down my 20° hill, about 1/2mi run.
Power on dash display before road test: 95%
On meter: did not meter test before road test
Power on dash after 1/2 mi up/dn hill road test: 14% on dash
On meter after road test: 75.6V

It was quite unnerving to see the dash display go from 95-15 in just a few minutes. Im not sure how accurate that measurement is, especially with no temp sensor or charger installed, but I’ll continue to meter test over the next few cycles.

I’ll get some pics up of the connectors and more test data later this week. On a final note, it was pretty dam cool to be back in the gem zippin up and down the canyon, thanks again guys, couldnt have done it without you.

Damn… that’s a steep hill… Especially for an early legacy gem with an 8:1 gear box. Dropping to 14% doesn’t surprise me. Voltage sag with the lead acid…worse if they’re old. You’re working everything pretty hard.

I had a 2000 with a R4F motor, 8:1 gears, and cheap wet cell duracell batteries. I was good for the first 9-12 months and then the car would shut down running my steep hills. I’d shut down, wait a few minutes, limp to the top of the hill, and then I was ok.

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Just an update to those Anderson Connectors.
The video they show on their sales page is for a completely different product. They dont come with a meter, but they do have 2 dinky wires coming off them, so you could add a 12v meter if you wanted one.

So after some great advice from @AssyRequired
I added this cheap 72V Battery Voltage & Capacity Monitor and used the pigtail that came with it and screwed in both wires to the Anderson Connector. Then I mocked up an extended connector to the Beleeb Charger.

I just turned the charger on, and all seems to be working. Its nice to have a volt meter on the dash. I’ll mount it, and clean this all up tonite. If I had to do it again, I would go with this Beleeb C40 charger (it comes with an Anderson Type Connector) along with Beleebs Charger Adapter Cable that replaces the original NG1 connector. Thank you @JarJarJava for that great tip!

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Hi, Brand new here, I have a Zivan NG1 upgraded charger in my 2002 Gem, Just changed from flooded batteries to AGM. Not sure how to change the setting on the charger to AGM? there is a dial on the top but not marked with any setting numbers. Any help here?
Thanks so much

Hey Joey,
If you look straight down at that dial you might see the dial has a window that indicates which setting it is running.

If your charger has been upgraded then you should see the profiles available on the front of the cover.