NEW 100Ah batteries. I have 25 100Ah New Grade A (All tests up to specs.) I top-balanced all of them and did a capacity check. They all are balanced and a little over 100Ah. Selling for $1875 shipped East of Mississippi. Add $100 for shipping West of Mississippi. CONUS ONLY. Pickup in Central Florida (The Villages) for $1700.
Hi, I am also in the Villages.
I just purchased a set of EVE 304 ah lithium batteries and I am planning to swap them into a 2018 e2. Do you know of anyone who has done this before?
Merry Christmas,
Brian
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Not much information to go on.
What capacity cells and how many? Looks like lfp chemistry.
Is the seller advising you on the conversion, charger, bms, etc.?
Itâs a long learning curve if you are on your own.
Hello,
This is my first foray into forums and I am not sure but I think you were commenting on my post about the EVE batteries.
If soâŚ
I have 16 of them. The nominal voltage of each cell is around 3.5. The rated amp hour is 304. According to the You Tuber âLithiumSolarâ they are testing between 300 and 305ah (he has purchased dozens of them). I purchased them from the same supplier that he has been using.
The supplier does not offer any assistance. I intend to order a 16s BMS, probably from Victon.
I am in no big hurry to do the swap. I want to be fairly sure of my plan before I take my cart apart.
I am currently running the original AGM 6v (2hr rating 150ah) batteries in a 2018 E2 and I am getting 51miles at full discharge. I only did this once, typically I recharge after every outing, not more than 35 miles. I am very surprised to get that much mileage, we once had a 2010 e2. We could never go more than 23 miles (this with brand new 12v Trojans).
I have noticed that Allied Batteries offers an easy lithium swap. Buy their batteries and their charger (around $7,000) and a half hour later, you have a lithium cart, 160ah or there abouts.
I am wondering if I can use the charger in my cart (seems like the one in the 2010 E2 was programmable). If not, perhaps purchase one from Allied? Not sure what the chemistry of their batteries are.
I have seen many of your posts and it is clear that you possess a tremendous amount of knowledge on these carts and battery technology.
I thank you for any advice you care to offer!
Brian
What are your goals with this swap? Are your current batteries getting tired?
It doesnât sound like you need more range that the 300ah will get you.
Have you figured out how and where you will be packaging these cells?
Now thatâs a big battery. >150 mile range. Great if you decide to raise the speed limit.
If lfp they will be 3.2v nominal unless some weird chemistry. 52v nominal.
I would have suggested higher voltage and less capacity/cost. But then, range is never too much.
Original charger and controller is good to 65v. Limiting factor is 60v dc-dc converter.
I have found 60v to be a hard limit.
Hello, thank you for your comments.
I have worked out the packaging. They should fit nicely in the original battery compartment without any modifications. I am planning to use aluminum bus bars 1/8 thick 1â wide because it is cheap and very easy to work with tools I have. I realize Aluminum moves a bit more than copper and that itâs conductivity is only about 65% of copper. I plan to use dielectric grease on all connection points. I will band the batteries (2) groups to prevent swelling but I am not convinced swelling would be much of an issue in this application. I am looking for some kind of dense foam to protect the bottom and sides.
My goal is purely range. We live in a retirement community and I am old! My hot rod days are behind me. We often have visitors who are interested in exploring the area and 35 miles per day is not enough.
As far as higher voltage, I am curious as to what that would get me? I would think greater speed but I believe the speed has been limited electronically on this cart?
Won,t change speed without modifications. But @grantwest reported a small bump in performance running 60 volts.
Itâs like always having full charge.
What is your cc distance of terminals? I have lots of nice flex bars if they would reach.
Also have discrete cell balancer for LiFePo4 that are very simple to use.
And 1/2" Firestone ISO-board scraps from my brotherâs shop. I use in building my batteries.
Good grief, I am lousy at using this forum. I just found this reply from back in December!
Thank you for the information and the offer/suggestions on products.
The way I am assembling the batteries will not allow the use of those (excellent) flexible bus bars. I would love to get my hands on some of that Firestone insulation. I would use it as an insulator/cushion for the bottom of my pack.
I can cut and ship some. My brother has it at his surplus store. May be on FB market.
Look for 7Rivers surplus listings 55941.
Iâm sure itâs cheap.
make sure you insulate between each cell all the way around. If the blue wrap fails bad things can happen.
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I was wondering about that. I thought I saw Drawings show can is Pos+.
That makes for a more complex wrap/package.
Right you are, the outer case of these pouch cells is positive with only a very thin skin protecting it. I have purchased 1/32â thick polyester âcutting matâ to insulate between the cells. I am excited about my packaging design and can hardly wait to assemble it to see if it works. I will post photos of the process. I believe once installed I will have room to build a small trunk to the rear of the batteries much like a Porsche Boxterâs rear trunk.
I will look for his store, thank you. As soon as I have my battery built, I will take my gem out of service and send you my charger for reprogramming. The factory converter (52vdc when at full charge to 12 vdc) will not work with my new 56vdc battery pack? I was not expecting that 
Do you have a source for a converter that will work?
Yes, it will. I found a hard limit at 60v.
The charger and controller can go to 66v.
I prefer high voltage performance and 18s lifepo4 or 16s lithium.