I think this build is a bit beyond me.
I suggest you look at Navitas. I hear they were making an AC motor kit for a Gem.
1 Like
O man, Navitas is the way to go! Talked to a helpful rep and he set me straight, I’m ordering their AC motor and will update after I install it
Your problem is probably in your programming. I have multiple customers in Carlsbad that live on the hills and drive down to The village without problems. need to know your battery setup. When running lithium it is important to make sure the setting in controller are not to aggressive. Many people tune controllers for more speed with lead batteries. Then they install lithium and the motors burn out.
UPDATE: I LOVE MY NAVITAS MOTOR!
Great power up hills, had to play around with their controller app to get the setup to where I wanted, but the app is easy enough to figure out!
I HIGHLY recommend anyone interested in upgrading their GEM motor check out Navitas / gemcarsmodified . com
4 passenger units in the hills should use AMD or GE fan cooled 7/7.5 motors RFF motors cant handle the strain. fan cooling makes a hell of a difference
2006 GEM E4 here, 11k miles on the stock motor I need a replacement that is affordable, trustworthy brand, and long lasting. I am on all flat land, no elevation. around city few miles a day. Looking for the easiest “plug and play” that i can DIY. Have tools etc. Thanks!
Why do you need a replacement?
Will upload a video, it is making a very loud knocking sound when pulling off throttle. Also, figuring it is almost 20 years old it would be ready to replace it?
Have you owned this car for it’s entire life?
How sure are you of its’ history?
Are you sure it is still using the original motor?
When was the last time your motor was serviced?
Where are you located?
I have not. I just bought it.
Unsure of history.
I am not sure if it is the original motor though it says GEM on it.
No idea if it was ever serviced.
I am located in San Franciso Bay Area.
Here is a driving video of the sound I am encountering,…can’t be normal.
Only on decel? (quiet on accel?)
Does it go away a bit if you drag brake a bit (while pressing accel pedal at the same time?
=====
Suggestions
-
Pull motor. Blow the black dust out of it.
-
Check spline coupler, It sounds very dry, Might be even really worn. Apply a dab of assembly paste on it. (See below)
-
Replace the rubber disc in the coupler with a new one.
(Something like the one below) -
Check oil in gearbox, add/change oil. (90wt)
1 Like
Thanks so much for this. I will get to the car this weekend and do this. it DOES quiet down on acceleration and feathering throttle on downhill. But as it sits, its pretty obnoxious to drive!
Motor pulling (as I have seen in other DIY videos) seems oddly straightforward? Am i missing something or will I be spooked when I pull it off and cant get it back on ?!
You may want to talk to your doctor about that.
Make sure you get the old bumper, all of it, out of the motor collet, that there isn’t somering like a dime in there etc. If you accidentally have two bumpers, you’ll likely wreck the end bearing on the motor.
Take a look at the teeth on the differential input shaft. If they look worn or misshapen, get in touch with Rodney @Old_Houseboater he usually has spares in stock. It’s super easy to change.
It is not difficult, but there are some tips to make it go easier. Use them or not.
-
Remove the hood so you are working on the motor from the front of the car. It also gives you better access to examine the other components up front (wiring, CV boots, brakes, shocks, frame condition).
-
Index the motor/gearbox as it sits before you remove the motor. Draw a line with a sharpie from the motor case to the gearbox flange or (even better) draw a line at the bolt locations. Note there are a few different bolt holes on the gearbox that are not used, but you can if you clock the motor around. This may mess with your cable length/routing if you pick the wrong holes.
-
The big power cables are fastened to the case with a stud and nut. Resist the temptation to simply spin off the upper nut to remove the cable. Many times the whole stud assembly rotates instead. This will crack the insulator and possibly tear off the spot welded connection inside the motor. This takes a simple 30 minute job into an expensive multi day wait for parts.
Instead → Back up the stud with a wrench on the bottom nut before you try and crack the upper nut off. Sometimes you need a thin wrench to get under there.
Finally able to get to the car today. Is this literally the only spot to load/check gear oil?
I already exhausted Yelp for mechanics within 100 mile radius that work on these cars, guess I didn’t know what I was getting into, but for a clean jam for 3000 bucks, I have to do it and it’s kind of fun to learn as I go,
That is a gearbox air/vent expansion bellows. It is not meant for adding (but you could if you are careful about keeping track of how much you squirt in there.)
According to the service manual the only place do add/check is the big rubber plug at the bottom. I agree, it’s stupid, and it doesn’t seem like it can get enough in there before it starts to spill out.
Yes, you are now the best mechanic for your new car. You probably don’t want those overcharging hacks working on your ride anyway. Feel free to hoot and holler as a show of how much fun you are having(and not really needing them) every time you go by their shop. If you have kids, it is a great platform to teach them basic mechanic skills.
Yup. And its ribbed for your pleasure too!
Been a while since i worked on a 2nd gen. Gem. Sold my ‘10 a year or so ago…. I may be missing a step here. @AssyRequired sanity check please….
When you pull the plastic plug on the diff (pumpkin) you can fill up to the bottom of the hole before reinserting the plug. That will get you most of the way to full.it doesn’t take that much to more through the Kong hole to top it off
Gems originally came with 30wt non emulsufying oil in the differential to squeeze every last mile out of the batteries. Most of us moved on to 75-80w or 85-90w gear oil so we didn’t have to listen to the clatter.
Rubber plug at the bottom… I did not see that. OK time to put the front wheels back up under some bricks and see what I can get into. My big hands cannot get anywhere near that rib, accordion, probably for the best.
This thread has high potential to go go sideways real fast.