Is that the D&d torque motor in the pic?
Rodney -41 is “Motor Controller Overheat “
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JB yes that a Brand New, ( have not tested/ran it ) D&D Torque motor
More info here
@grantwest
A forum member may be sending me an ac polaris gem motor. 
He also may have a controller for me if Polaris doesn’t want it back.
That will speed up my ac gem hacking.
I still have a few 1000lbs of batteries to test. I’ll be busy with that through the fall.
Where are your Bolt batteries?
Wow that’s great news. You think you might be able to suck the program or extract settings to get your AC motor controller programmed?
The Battery’s (all 500 LBs of them) are supposed to get dropped off today. I’m not holding my breath. They are supposed to call and my phone ain’t ringing!
Where did you source those batteries?
One time deal from recycler. No idea what they were at the time, as they were in a sealed ss oil bath tank. After dissection, find 160 75ah LiFePo4 cells in each one.
They are new unused but old stock. About 20% are dead. The rest need to be capacity tested.
Original cost est, $20k to $40k. Built for US army and Nasa in USA.
Well I installed the Mother of all 12 volt mini fans.
This thing is hella loud. Makes way to much noise but moves air like nobody’s business. I’m gonna stick it on a switch so “if” & or “when” I ever get a code -41 I can simply flick a switch and cool things off
I know it’s a bit big but it’s what I had laying around. I might just go with a small one like gem uses, but for now we will see how this works
It looks like you have it right up against the controller(?). That type of fan does not create pressure well at all and won’t do as well as if it were given some room for the air to flow away from the blades. Some of the noise is probably from all the turbulence the blades are seeing.
The squirrel cage type fans do well creating pressure when forced to blow into small areas/openings.
Doug: yes the fan is mounted right up against the controller. It’s loud. But even when the fan is removed away from the controller it’s just as loud. So I don’t think re positions it is gonna make a difference as gas as noise. I think I need a smaller slower fan like the stick gem car uses. It just needs a small breeze going across it to make a difference. The one I’m useing is just way overkill for this application
Since it’s already mounted, drop voltage and current with a resistor would help slow it down too.
As you know, air which doesn’t have a place to go will not do much cooling. So maybe sticking a few small spacers to move it off the controller a wee bit to let there be more cooling.
Could I install a inline Adjustable Resistor? Like a potentiometer
Yes as long as the power rating is correct and that should be on the fan( Volts * Current = Watts ).
Ok I wanted to post some updated info. I installed a smaller fan months ago, I decided to put the fan that blow air across the Controller Heat Sink on a switch. The smaller fan still makes noise so I wanted to be able to turn it off for the times we sit in the car and listen to music with the key on. So fast forward to this weekend. We picked up some friends and took all of them out for a long ride in the car. It was packed. 5 in total. On the last climb home the car stalled and STOPED DEAD. on a long steep hill. Its dark the car is showing code 41 traffic is backed up behind me and I’m feeling bad for all the new passengers asking them self’s WHY did we go on a cart ride? I’m telling them Just hold on the car has to cool down and in a few mins we will be on our way. Then the Light Bulb go’s off in my head. Hey I installed a Fan in this car!!! I flick the switch I hear the fan turn on and The code 41 go’s away and we are riding happy! I felt stupid fo not having it on but to be honest its been cool outside and I have not needed it. Im just gonna leave switch for the controller fan on for the summer, Than way when ever the car is Key on I have the fan on
A thermo-disc switch is super simple to connect inline with fan.
They generally have a high differential. Like 10 or 20 degrees. Find one that turns “on” with temperature rise. Choose “on” point at 20 degrees over ambient. Enough to make sure it turns off when heat sink cools down.
ps.
You could also pick a higher temperature one that bypasses your switch.
Dave that’s a great Idea. I could put it on a 3 way. That way I could override the switch if I wanted instant on.
I could take a Temp reading when I’m pushing it hard. Example let’s say 100 degrees. I could find a thermo Switch that kicks on at 90 or 100.
Im thinking, leave it as you have it. Then connect the thermo across the manual switch. It will only come into play if someone forgets to turn the switch on.
If you pick too low a setting, it will never turn off. Depending on the differential.
They make adjustable ones too with a little screwdriver dial.
I would like to take the Temp Lead off my BMS and run it to my Controller it would be fun to see how terrain and amps effect heat in the controller and how when the fan turned on effects or cools the controller.