It sounds like you found a Temp sensor for a DQ?
What color are the wires going into that molded cube? Depending on what you have there it may be important where that is hooked up.
Did you mention what charger you have?
If it is actually a fuse, yeah, It shouldn’t be there.
I really need help. I’m having a similar problem with my 2010 with a T4 controller, but I don’t have any codes showing. (incidentally, I used to get a maintenance light whereby the car wouldn’t operate until I jiggled the cables on the motor and turned the key on and off a few times. I’m not sure which of the two fixed the problem back then)
This problem came up when I accidentally left my key on while the car was charging. (It’s an after-market charger BTW) I’m not sure if that’s a coincidence, or the reason I’m having a problem.
The brake symbol is on, but I that was on before and it ran fine. I don’t get any tones when I manipulate the brake handle or switch, which only has two wires on it. I used to get tones but that was ages ago. (BTW- any idea where those two wires attach to the switch, which has three possible connections? I also have the black thingy (temp sensor) attached to the negative side of the batter with two lines going someplace. When I do a continuity check, I get nothing from each of the ends to the negative terminal.
Looking for steps to begin troubleshooting. Many thanks in advance!
hey Remey
Let’s take this in little bites.
When MainSwitchON, KeyOff and brake down you should get a solid beep. This is silenced by BrakeUp or by KeyON. If you have lost track of where those two wires go on that hand brake switch they should go to the top two tabs. (the one that is slightly offset and the top of the two that are stacked on the side of the switch)
Sometimes that switch can get knocked out of adjustment or flat out dead. To test the wiring- both of those two wires need to be connected for the car to go. If you connect them before you turn the KeyON it should produce the continuous beep. With KeyON the red brake light should go dark.
Verify that this is happening.
If NOT then we need to look elsewhere.
Hi AssyRequired- (Sorry for the very slow reply. I have been out of town).
I get no tones or light changes when I do everything as you have instructed above.
Just so you know:
Before I invest $500-800 on a rebuilt computer only to have the same problem, I’ll follow your next troubleshooting steps.
BTW- Could it be the accelerator? How do I (get to, and) check my accelerator to make sure that isn’t the issue?
Many thanks in advance!
Dennis (aka RmeyPilot)
B- to B+ ? that means contactor is pulled in. Got the clunk?
If not, P1 and P2 are the important ones. They power controller indirectly from charger green wire and key switch.
Inwo and AssyRequired. I apologize for the EXTREMELY slow response. Without saying more than I can, I had a mission to complete and it took me away from everything.
So responding to the last response, and showing my complete ignorance:
Many thanks in advance!
Dennis
rmeypilot@gmail.com
(Taking Dennis aka RmeyPilot private)
He needs a full review.
I want to thank AssyRequired for calling me and helping me with a methodical check on my GEM to finally resolve my issue! He is a genius. I felt like he was looking over my shoulder because he described every connector and wire that I would be seeing. Bravo!
Bottom line up front, and as a record of the fix for everyone’s future edification, my issue with the contactor not engaging came down to the tan wire coming from the emergency brake switch (under the seat) to the brake interlock under the right hand side of the dash.
(FYSA- the brake interlock system is comprised of two removable black modules on the right side under the dash. One of the main functions is to let the system “know” the status of the emergency brake engagement. It controls the brake status light and allows the computer/controller to close the contactor and energize the drive system if the brake lever is off).
This was a bizarre issue to figure out since we determined that the PSDM was sending 12 volts to the emergency brake switch via the red/white wire, and the brake switch itself was working properly which should have sent the same 12 volts through the tan wire to the brake interlock under the dash once the brake was disengaged.
Instead, the tan wire was “trickling” the 12 volts to the brake interlock. (The voltmeter showed just a couple volts when grounded to the tan wire which then gradually increased to 12 volts over about 20 seconds. Again, bizarre. We initially thought it was ghost voltage associated with my voltmeter, but clearly the tan wire was compromised in some way).
We figured out we could bypass the lockout (which then energized the contactor) or I could run another wire to replace the obviously faulty tan wire. Either would work but the latter would be a permanent fix.
After we hung up, I decided to replace the tan wire. As I began inspecting the wire in preparation to figure out the routing, I noticed that a 3/4" section of the wire was slightly swollen. When I bent the wire at that point, it broke open revealing blue/green corrosion of the copper wire! That explained the trickle of DC voltage to the lockout switch whereby the corrosion was acting as a resistor!
NOTE: AssyRequired told me that someone probably tested that wire years ago by inserting a sharp probe which allowed moisture and corrosion to build up.
The fix: I cut the cancer out of the tan wire, spliced spliced it back together and all is well. The GEM functions perfectly again.
Thank you all who provided invaluable information on this forum, especially AssyRequired, who went out of his way to personally assist.
