Ok - one more question because I’m still a bit confused about this: Is the ChassGnd the ground wire in the 2x2 (or 2x3) molex in the front near the shock/spring?
When I refer to ChassGnd, I am pointing to anything on the frame of the car. Pick a clean spot and stick your reference probe or clamp there.
If you follow the black wire it will usually peel out of the harness somewhere and terminate with a ring terminal and be screwed down to the frame somewhere. Sometimes these get loose or get pulled off and need checking.
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Literally the chassis ground - got it! Thanks and will follow up once I get in there. Cheers!
Alright - got some more work done on this last night and have some follow up questions. I unplugged the back lights to see if the front blinkers worked and it did appear to help: the front blinkers worked again. Overall I’m getting really weird electric things going on.
• When blinkers are activated, the rear running light on the trailer bed actually turns off for that side of the car when I brake. Lights appear normal otherwise.
• In some instances, the rear trailer bed blinker would actually work as intended - blinking about 3 times - but then stopping as if they had run out of juice.
If you follow the black wire it will usually peel out of the harness somewhere and terminate with a ring terminal and be screwed down to the frame somewhere. Sometimes these get loose or get pulled off and need checking.
So I tested the back molex again for the turn signals, using a chassis ground (pictured) and got a very dim blinking signal. I also followed the harness to see where the ground wire broke out and found that it appears to be connected to the battery negative as a ground. That’s… not right correct?
Additionally, I went to the front 2x2 molex for those lights and got a very strong 12V signal, blinking when activated. That said… I also found that the 2x2 molex male and female wires didn’t color match - 2 of the wires matched and 2 of them needed to be swapped. I disconnected them for now and will try recrimping them into their matching ports soon.
Thanks as always for your insights!
Your black wire.
This is where one really needs to understand what wire you are looking at on these cars. These cars have the messiest wiring code I have ever seen. You should take the manual and colors as a suggestion.
To answer your question, that wire is going to where is is supposed to go (over to B- ) Leave it there. It is part of the charger temperature sense circuit.
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This is not a ChassGnd! (pictured) It is the main fuse to your battery pack. Note that it has big orange cables tied straight to a couple of batteries.
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Try again. Clamp your test light straight to the frame of the car.
Scroll back up to Post 7 where I dropped in a pic of the wiring diagram for the rear tail lighting. Can you read/follow this?
At that 2x2 molex you should have (ref ChassGnd)
- Running lights on the violet wire
- Right Brake and Turn will be on Black/Db
- Left Brake and Turn will be on Gray/Db
Verify this first.
Then inspect how the lights are wired.
LED lights are a bit finicky to hook up. If you get the wires wrong they do not act as expected. Running/tail are usually dimmer when viewed. Brake and turn use the same wire, but brighter.
Alright - final update for now! I ended up removing the 2x2 molex for the front lights and replaced them with 4x of these lever-nuts (none of the big box stores had molex connectors). I reattached those 4x wires exactly as they were before, turned on the cart and… all the lights work exactly as they should! Blinkers, brake lights, front and back - all working. Not sure what exactly I did to change the situation besides re-wiring but I’ll take it! Thanks everyone for all your help and brains!!!
