What I’m asking is how are they powered?
Is the 36v meter be powered by 36v?
It also can’t be powered by a separately derived system.
I can think of a couple ways to do it.
Ground is common 12V+ is off first battery 36V+ from the end of the pack string.
This is common hook up for all these little displays.
I need something a little more robust
That sounds like a good way!
Are they left on, or switched off with the key?
Heat and vibration are biggest enemy.
Shielded cable for long leads or leads near the PWM cables might help.
Also bypass caps on the inputs to board.
These are electric golf carts, no heat or vibration to speak of.
[quote=OLD HOUSEBOATER;26986]Ground is common 12V+ is off first battery 36V+ from the end of the pack string.
This is common hook up for all these little displays.
I need something a little more robust[/quote]
I wonder if these would be any better?
2 wire connection.
With only two leads, it’s easier to put some protection on the input.
Add a .01 and a 1uf across the input.
Same for the ones you use now, but you would need two sets.
Don’t care about the volts need amps more. I have another readout coming. It is the same as I have had before. Where should I put the capacitor?
If this puppy doesn’t hold up I’m going to the plain old analog needle.
If it’s electrical surge or noise killing them.
Use shielded cable on long runs. Connecting the shield to ground on one end only.
Of course if they are just junk, this won’t help.
I use counters and such from China in industrial applications with good luck.
Bypass capacitors connect from ground to input power, and ground to signal leads.Good practice would also have reverse diodes on inputs, but I would hope they are built in.
In your case, I believe you would need 3 sets. power-amps-volts
Values and type not critical.
I would send you some or source them for you.
Radio Shack is just down the road.
If you sent me a bad one, I could look for the problem.
Chances are slim, as they aren’t worth much effort.
Their only 10 bucks
1 Like
Does anyone have instructions or resources for reprogramming the controller on a stock 2008 e2?
I sell USB cables and sw that works with all GE SX controllers.
I’m not good with sw, but you can get support from forum on how to use it.
Are you looking at more performance?
Hi old Houseboater- any idea where I can order a stock speed sensor magnet for a 2011 GEM E6? I called the dealer and they ask for a part number which I don’t know!
Hi
look here if it same as your motor
MTR MAGNET-GE 2878981
hmm direct link not work try to search on that part number
352-787-2223
Ask for Richard Gallop
Best Damn Gem Service in Florida
Rodney
Will someone loan or rent me the stuff i need to reprogram my T1 controller? Not worth buying because only issue is downhill regen setting and i live in mostly flat area
I had a magnet crack, which gave me an error 81. She accelerated much slower but made it to the top speed, which is set at 20mph. I put a sheet of magnetic viewing film over the cracked magnet. Surprisingly the same amount of poles are there, but the shape and width of the one at the crack is different. Just something for the gee wiz file.
1 Like
That’s uber cool. Thanks.
I couldn’t find my flux sheet when I had one break.
That is exactly what I wanted to look for too!
Q- What does it do with the metal support ring in the center?