The cable was rubbing on the frame in the back at the batteries. I guess years of vibration against the aluminum.
Understanding what it was jumping to will help figure out what/how things fried.
Your original issue was DC Converter went out in the charger? B+ suddenly back feeding into 12v Gnd might explain it.
Let me wrap my head around how it got into your Key loop and what it did to your accessories when they tried to click on.
Wow. What went on with F3 !?!?!?!
Did you know that fuse was blown?
I have that as minor Radio power. (Probably switched w/KeyON).
If this was blown, (shorted down stream) then this should not be repeatedly blowing F9. There seems to be more going on here… Did you replace F3 with a higher amp rating?
Did you have anything plugged into Accessory connect point 1?
[Still looking…]
Q: → When you discovered that bad main battery cable at the back, Was it still in contact with the frame?
When I was going to remove PSDM, I went to back of car to disconnect the batteries that’s when noticed a black spot on aluminum frame and checked the cable. So yes it was in contact with the frame.
This is getting interesting. Any 12v component making inadvertent contact with b-, very bad with positive ground traction battery system. And something must have, or b+ contacting frame would be trivial, by itself.
First thoughts only!
A client once mixed up the two black wires when installing the dci charger.
Damaged charger, but I never thought it out. I’ll see what your thoughts are.
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Original issue was the charge side went out. The DC/DC converter was still working. Something must have happened when installing the Charger/Converter back since there was the possibility the B+ (72v+) was touching the frame.
K. Seeing how you had to pull all the fuses to pull the PSDM cover off,
Did you notice that one was blown?
Or was the black mark on the board possibly left over from a previous issue? (trying to draft up some sort of timeline)
Before putting the Cover back on, it is reccomended to put a piece of tape over the beeper to quiet it down. (The black cyl with a hole in it).
Also, make sure the screws that go through the board to the power studs are fairly tight.
It probably won’t matter, but don’t plug the radio wire on the Acc Power S1 just yet.
Random thoughts:
Traction battery accidently grounding to frame is a nothing burger. It won’t even arc, except for some static buildup. Either pos or neg grounding, no effect. Some systems are grounded intentionally.
As this one did arc, there is another path to the frame or 12v system, somewhere. Full time or another intermittent short circuit.
@AssyRequired any ideas?
May need to start megging frame to devices.
Still blowing fuse 9 when J3 is connected and turn the key.
The radio was working when the charger went bad.
I left every disconnected on the S side and still blows fuse when J3 connected and turn the key.
It spit molten metal at the battery so that wasn’t a long term warm-over-time event, it was a violent arc.
I am about out of things to try. This really feels like an internal PSDM issue. Since there is not very much known about this box, it is very tough to repair.
Best bet is to find someone that is parting out a car and replacing your PSDM.
