yeah don’t need snow tires when you live on Vancouver island on the west coast lol
Thanks for the referral. I seen his (Florida guy) product and liked the idea of having the external component that takes the brunt of the abuse but maybe not needed?
Well if it doesn’t work up here I’ll look him up. I really don’t want to give up on this thing and part it out. Will keep ya updated
Yes I liked that he puts the DC to DC convertor outside of the cluster as well taking a lot of the heat away but he doesn’t have a good track record. I’m using my new delta q updated charger that has a built in DC to DC convertor to supply the 12v to my cluster and lights.
Can I ask you how much you spent on the updated charger? Did you get that off the same dealer (electrons in motion)?
No his prices are crazy. I would only use him for a instrument cluster rebuild. You can buy a new old stock one from evdrives.com for $250.00 plus free shipping. They also sell the connectors or you can just hardwire it. I chose to buy the connectors but they are not cheap. You should be able to sell your old charger on ebay to cover the cost of a new one if it still works.
Ok thanks! I have the model 910-7201 delta q. Don’t know if that’s old or new? Haven’t had to charge them because I charged them before I put them in and am still waiting to get the cluster back. Did get a message back from the electronics guy though saying he has removed some damaged parts and was waiting for replacements to come in so I’m crossing my fingers that he gets it fixed.
Thanks again for the info
The 910-7201 charger is what they came with and because it’s oem they bring a premium when you sell them.
The biggest problem with the clusters was the built in DC to DC converters that would build too much heat. The California guy uses a high end DC to DC converter which is still built in but he has had great success with. I would be asking your electronics guy if he could remove it and use an external one just to eliminate that heat all together. I just wouldn’t use the cheap one the Florida guy uses. Hopefully your guy is using higher end replacement parts altogether.
Well I got the cluster back…he said he replaced a few things. So obviously I couldn’t wait to plug it in. When I did, the contactor pulled in but the cluster didn’t light up. After about 10 seconds it pulled back out. Measured voltage coming from cluster to coil and got 72 volts. Don’t know what I’m supposed to get from controller.
Disconnected the speed sensor and fired it up. Nothing happened with cluster. I guess I’ll be going through those pinpoint tests again
But it was good to hear the contactor pull in.
One weird thing from the.last repair was a jumper wire on the board from a diode to what looked like a relay or something. Is that supposed to be on there? Or was that a bandaid bypassing something?
Will keep you updated
There is no jumper wires on the back of the cluster so it sounds like someone added that.
The controller supplies the ground to the contactor. You need to figure out why the instrument cluster is not working. Once you get that working and if you still have a problem you will be able to check it for codes.
I would look at the wiring diagram for the instrument cluster and make sure you have power and ground where you should. Voltage return means it’s a ground if you didn’t know.
You can call Scott, he likes to talk and has a lot more experience with the Think’s than I do. I’m sure he will walk you through what needs to be checked.
See if your Think guys can source cheap sensor plugs. I would like to make MM that fit Think 6wire connections.
Even the replacement sensors don’t have the right plug.
I have a lead in China. Know more after the Holiday on the 12th.
Thanks for all your info and help. I gave it back to the electronics guy with the manual this time. He seems excited and is set on getting this thing going and does really good work. Atleast with the schematic he says he can apply some voltage to it and test it inhouse.
have any of you think guys considered converting to GEM wiring setup. Your D2 is the same basic setup with one exception. I think it was in the e brake circuit.but dont remember exactly. It was significant though. I used D2 in place of a T2 . If you get into it I will go back and research the item.
Rodney
Here’s a link I found that might help your buddy repairing the cluster.http://cafeelectric.com/public/ThinkNeighborInstrumentCluster/
Very serviceable. The diode is replacing the smd diode on board, which may or may not be bad. It is only a snubber for relay coil.
This is info I’ve not seen in print:
A far cry from the 250w/mile that I use. 
@grantwest Grant’s car can go 97 miles on a charge using Think calcs.
This was my cluster when i cracked her open. What is that part in the pic that was obviously changed out? What were they bypassing with the jumper? That has been removed along with some resistors and diodes.
Thanks dave for the scribbles there. I passed the info on
Not imediately obvious to me what parts have been replaced. By thumb?
Jumpers are used to replace traces that have melted or damaged by desoldering components.
Is this a board thats not working?
Yes this is the board thats not working.
Off hand I don’t know which parts but I do have a receipt that just says components in general. I will get that information from the guy that’s working on it.
Weird that my buddies has one more capacitor than yours
Yeah i see that he has one more…wonder why.
So dave do you repair hem yourself or send it away to scott?
Haven’t got a call back yet from my repair guy but we’ve had 2 feet of snow in the last 2 days. Remember i said we don’t get snow here on the west coast, apparently we do so you could imagine the chaos it produces here.
If it was mine I would have attempted the repair. Sent it out yesterday so hopefully I will have him up and running in a week or so. I’m thinking that extra capacitor was added on a previous repair.
I don’t miss snow at all. I’m sure you don’t have snowplows in that area so that would just add to the excitement lol.
