Electrical problem?

Hi I have a 2007 GEM EL just replaced the controller and Delta-Q charger. Batteries show 78.4 V.

Dash display is showing the red and yellow bars for battery life. Still drives. Tested voltage at 78.4V at the controller.

Any ideas what could cause this?

Need to set display to 99% after full charge.
Curious, why the parts replacement.

The original charger failed so we replaced it with an original replacement. We also thought we had controller issues so had that checked and repaired.

How do you reset it to 99%? It did show full charge when we first installed the parts but didn’t get an hour of running around and it showed the red and yellow. Now it just stays there.

You can reset the meter by using the following steps:

  • Turn the key on.
  • Push and release the TRIP/ODOMETER switch until it’s showing the
    odometer.
  • While holding the switch down, turn the RIGHT signal on, then the LEFT
    signal, then return the blinker to the center.
  • Release the TRIP/ODOMETER switch. You should be seeing data (P0105) on
    the display now. This number may be different depending on your display firmware loaded.
  • Turn the RIGHT signal on, then off repeatedly until the display reads:
    SOC (State Of Charge).
  • Push and release the TRIP/ODOMETER switch. Now it’s remaining capacity in percent.
  • You can now raise (or lower, for that matter) the SOC with the blinker
    switch.
  • When you’re happy, Push and release the TRIP/ODOMETER switch. The display reads: DONE.
  • Turn the key off.

*Ignore all of the other settings in the secret menu

As Inwo said, The dash display is confused because it has not seen the changes yet.
The car’s ability to drive has nothing to do with the amount of bars on the dash.
Sometimes a series of short runs and full charge cycles will straighten it out.
Otherwise you can manually set it but this procedure has rules. It will do NO GOOD if your pack is not healthy.

Realize, 78.4 is not a very good charge. When was this reading taken?

It did show full charge when we first installed the parts but didn’t get an hour of running around and it showed the red and yellow. Now it just stays there.

This right here is showing the character of a troubled pack.
When was the last time you did a full pack checkup?

  • Just to see how far out of whack your pack actually is, Do a V check on each battery and note the number.
  • With a separate car charger, charge 6 batteries to within 0.1v from each other,. This is balancing.
  • Load test each one. Look for a punk battery.
  • Clean all lugs and terminals
  • if wet cell batteries, they should be topped off.
  • Since you just replaced the charger, did you check if the proper charge profile is running for you type of battery?

One more thing of note-

Now it just stays there.

When you wired in your old charger, Where exactly did you place the Red and Black wires? Yes, it is important.

Did you also use the green wire?

Thank you INWO I will reset that.

Assyrequired thank you as well. The battery pack is less than a year old and are 130AH wet cell batteries. I have not set the charger as I did not know I needed to unfortunately. I will charge each battery individually to get them back to proper voltage before setting the battery guage on the display. How do I change the charger to the proper setting?

I did hook the wires up exactly where I took them off. Red to battery positive cable and black/ white to battery ground cable and green back to the same wire which I believe is green for ignition.

I am a red seal automotive tech and have good knowledge of electrical but these are a different cat to skin lol. I appreciate the help I am getting very much!

I’m guessing that is not correct. It may have been wrong before. Or you may be misunderstanding the connection at psdm.

They need to go here(or something electrically equivalent).
I usually find the B- up on the controller.
Key is the B- needs to go on the correct side of the shunt (same as motor controller NEG).

Do not over tighten those studs. They twist off very easy.

Ok I do basically have them hooked to the same cables. B- is on that stud B+ is on the came cable that goes to that stud just at the other end so it should function the same.

Just to confirm that I’m reading this right, you are saying that your battery bars do not increase/reset when charging? What does your dash show when it is plugged in?

How do I change the charger to the proper setting?

Three ways-

  • Tap method (end user/no tools needed)
  • DQ Programmer (need to purchase the interface cable and software)
  • Send to someone that has a programmer cable.

Tap method. It is a horrible user hostile interface for doing adjustments that requires perfect timing and a little bit of luck. Some people get it right the first time, others can’t get it at all. Use the search tool and read up on the many lively discussions here that talk about this.

First- Start off by checking what profile your charger is currently running. With charger unplugged, disconnect battery pack, then plug in charger. Watch the Charger Display. It will do a boot/self check, then do a blink code. Count those flashes. A multi digit code will have a slight pause between the digits. It might repeat this code 3 times then switch to a Red(2) which is a battery out of range error. It happens quick, and you may need to do this a few times before you get the code.

The battery display on the dash does not go up when charging the batteries the charger itself appears to cycle through the different bars of charge.

I have been working on getting all of the batteries at about 13.4 V, most were resting at 12.9.

I will do a dash display reset to correspond to what voltage the pack shows after all have been charged.

I will also check to see what setting the charger is on. If I remember right they did ask what batteries I had to program the charger when purchased but I may be wrong. I don’t fully remember now.

What does your dash show when it is plugged in?
Specifically, Does the little plug show up?

Plug Icon

Then do the battery bars stair step to the right?

Yes it shows the cord as you’ve shown

Ok so I charged all of the batteries one at a time had all batteries at 13.7V set the dash display to to the corresponding voltage on your chart.

Ran my gem around until there were two green bars left before the yellow. Plugged it in to charge the battery display on the dash stayed on for about 30 seconds and went off but the yellow cord stayed on and the charger charged the batteries until full and the green light came on on the charger.

Now to add to the battery indicator shutting off while charging it used to stay on like you asked and would step up as the batteries charged. Now it does not and also when I turn the ignition on it still displays the same two bars above the yellow and does not reflect that the batteries have been charged.

Hmmm… Verify that your charger is indeed charging up the batteries (via external meter, and Charger status panel).

Otherwise, It sounds like something happened to the SOC counter function. This might be something wrong with how the shunt is measuring positive current flow, or perhaps something is messed up in your display settings (secret menu).

The only notable event that you mentioned is that you changed out your charger. Perhaps the old one spiked the output enough to do some damage downstream. I had you check/confirm the location of the B- wire, but you might want to confirm that again.

The yellow light (plug icon) on the dash is to confirm that the charger interlock is active. It should stay on as long as the charger is plugged in.

I did confirm that the charger is charging, I checked battery voltage before plugging in the charger and after plugging in the charger. Battery Voltage was 77.8V before and 82.3V after.

The yellow interlock cord light stays on all the time when charger is plugged in but not the battery state of charge indicator. It was all working properly before replacing the charger and before replacing the control module.

I will recheck my cables and wires as you said to confirm again.

Thank you!