As I’ve said in other posts, I bought a 2002 825-4 recently and seem to be turning it into a new car, one assembly at a time.
So far:
replaced leaking left rear wheel cylinder.
ordered lexan panel to replace crazed/cracked moonroof
replaced right front wheel assembly; cured noises
NOW:
getting a lot of noise from front-center, could be motor, but seems more likely differential. I checked lube–maybe six oz low; topped up with 30w.
I’m thinking about taking it to my local Jiffy Lube and replacing the 30w with something denser; maybe 90w. Anyone ever try this? Even if it isn’t a good idea in the long run, it might help in troubleshooting.
I just had my 2003 e825 (Just purchased, used) serviced by a GEM Tech. I had a lot of noise and play in the drive-line. We ended up replacing the Diff., as the previous owner ran it bone dry of oil. I discovered this upon getting it home and taking a really god look at things.
The Tech DID also replace the small rubber cone inside my motor (sits inside the motor shaft, buffers the Diff input shaft/motor shaft) Mine was very worn down. He said it helps a lot with noise and play in the drive-line.
I show it as PN: 0313-00168 BUMPER, RESILIENT - DIFF TO MOTOR in the parts book. That might help a bit, especially an 02 if it hasn’t been replaced.
The local golf cart place mistakenly told me to put 80-90 in the old diff, I did, and it quieted down a lot, and the tech said that was in fact the old GEM spec from what he remembered, but GEM discovered that “Motor Oil” held up better in the higher heat than “Gear Oil”, thus they changed the spec to “Motor Oil” for viscosity endurance purposes.
A guy I spoke to at a dealership said the thicker stuff will hurt you, obviously, in the colder weather, as it will be a lot thicker until it warms up.
Knowing all of this, if I still had the old Diff., I would be putting a thicker (than 30) “motor oil” in it to help it out. I am not a mechanic, so take it all with a grain of salt, but that would be my route… Try the rubber bumper though, might be surprised…
I did replace the motor oil with 90 wt gearlube which did help a bit, but there was still a lot of noise, so I assumed I would mean a new differential.
In the meantime, I had received the “hot” Ride-4-Fun 7.5hp motor and had a real dilemma: If I replace the differential at the same time as the motor, I’ll never know where the noise was coming from. If I put the motor in and the noise remains, I will have to pull the motor…etc. so I pulled the old motor and found a very large amount of lateral slop in the rotor, which was the cause of the problem.
Runs with the fine whine of a Pratt & Whitney PT6.
So… The 7.5 is in? Do you recommend it? I need to do a motor, and am looking seriously at the RFFun 7.5. Did you do the speed controller option as well?
[QUOTE=Alphaeditor;8073]So… The 7.5 is in? Do you recommend it? I need to do a motor, and am looking seriously at the RFFun 7.5. Did you do the speed controller option as well?[/QUOTE]
It is in. I didn’t go for their controller, but the price of the motor includes re-programming of the original controller, which, of course, requires taking the car out of service for a week or so, which I am very reluctant to do right now. I am awaiting delivery of a 14" wheel set.
Recommendation probably a strong word until I’ve driven it for a few months; I can’t speak to reliability etc, but it is very powerful, smooth. Nearly every street in my town has a 25 mph speed limit, so the speed increase isn’t particularly important to me, but the town is built up a hillside, and it makes a [U]big[/U] difference there. Streets I used to go up at 12 mph I now do at 25. It is actually cheaper than the OEM 5hp motor, so if you need one anyway…
BTW, the install is pretty simple, but the video shows a newer model car in which motor access is much better. I did it single-handed and I wanna tell you that mutha is heavy when you are squatting, lifting it and trying to move it into position under the battery box. I eventually had to do some pretty interesting engineering involving a couple jacks, a 1x6 and some shims.
But you said you have a local GEM mechanic; what does he say?
He reluctantly recommends it. He is the “GEM Factory Service” road guy here in So. CAL. They are “Internally” not allowed to recommend anything not Chrysler Approved. But he said he does have a lot of clients with it. Cooling factor is good on it, with vents built into the case. He recommended the speed controller update if I go that route. Interesting cost issue you mentioned. Now seeming more appealing. Let me know your thoughts after some use. I need to do a few more batteries, we had to replace 2 that were cooked (DEKA GELs) and I need to do the other 4 in the next 1 to 2 months, so saving the pennies for that, then hopefully motor from Santa Clause, we’ll see how it goes after the car gets some use. I have a feeling I won’t be able to hold out for Santa though. Keep me posted on your thoughts about your use with that motor. I will be very curious to hear how it goes. Thanks!
[QUOTE=Alphaeditor;8075] Keep me posted on your thoughts about your use with that motor. I will be very curious to hear how it goes. Thanks![/QUOTE]
So far, I’m delighted with it. This is my primary car (although we do have a “total transport package” of options); gets a lot of use, so I should be able to give you a useful opinion. I’ll post again after I get the controller re-programmed and the new wheel set installed.
I have been using 80W90 in all four GEMs for several years now. Gear noise has been reduced, especially on the older GEMs. There have been no problems in cold weather. If you choose to run “motor oil,” I would suggest “non-detergent” motor oil.
Thanks for that info Daniel, GeminAshland any word on your setup? I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the ride for fun motor, just curious about feedback…
[QUOTE=Alphaeditor;8189]Thanks for that info Daniel, GeminAshland any word on your setup? I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the ride for fun motor, just curious about feedback…[/QUOTE]
Nothing to report, really since the above. I’ve put another hundred or so miles on it and continue to like the new motor. Just got my 14" wheels on a couple days ago and haven’t yet sent the controller off for its lobotomy.
One minor thing I have noticed about the R4F motor: it has a different torque curve; I live on a steep hill and have a steeper driveway. It zooms up the street, 8 or 10 mph faster than the old one, but if I stop for the bump at the bottom of my drive, it really struggles to make the grade that last hundred feet.
The old motor, which wheezed up the street at 12 mph would burn rubber from the dead stop accelerating to 4 or 5 mph up my steep drive.
As I recall, you need a new motor anyway. Aside from any reliability issues, which I haven’t had time to assess in 350 miles, the R4F is the way to go.
Greetings. I have a 2002 825. Noice in the differential. I have the service manual. I can not locate directions on where or how to check or change the oil. Guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
The best time to change the gear oil is immediately after driving. There is a rubber fill plug on the stamped cover of the differential. You cannot easily drain the oil by removing the cover as the cover bolts also hold the transmission to the frame. The way I have always drained the oil is to siphon it out through the fill hole. This does not get all of the oil out. The factory recommends SAE 30 non-detergent oil. However, many of us use SAE 90 gear oil instead because it reduces gear noise.
[QUOTE=borlando;10759]Greetings. I have a 2002 825. Noice in the differential. I have the service manual. I can not locate directions on where or how to check or change the oil. Guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.[/QUOTE]
Like Daniel says–I also recommend the 90 weight, unless you live in a severely cold climate–in which case you’r gonna have other issues, aren’t you. I just go down to my local Jiffy Lube once a year. They have the perfect “sucker” for the job. …and it seems to amuse them.
Daniel,
Thanks for the reply.
There is a white, plastic tube connect to a port on the passenger’s side of the differential. I assume this is a vent tube connect to the fill port to which you referred(?). I have a brake-line hand vacuum pump; will that work to remove oil from the differential?
Bob O.
I have a 2006 GEM and need to add fluid to the differential but can’t locate a filler location. Does anyone know where to locate this?
[QUOTE=Alphaeditor;8071]I just had my 2003 e825 (Just purchased, used) serviced by a GEM Tech. I had a lot of noise and play in the drive-line. We ended up replacing the Diff., as the previous owner ran it bone dry of oil. I discovered this upon getting it home and taking a really god look at things.
The Tech DID also replace the small rubber cone inside my motor (sits inside the motor shaft, buffers the Diff input shaft/motor shaft) Mine was very worn down. He said it helps a lot with noise and play in the drive-line.
I show it as PN: 0313-00168 BUMPER, RESILIENT - DIFF TO MOTOR in the parts book. That might help a bit, especially an 02 if it hasn’t been replaced.
The local golf cart place mistakenly told me to put 80-90 in the old diff, I did, and it quieted down a lot, and the tech said that was in fact the old GEM spec from what he remembered, but GEM discovered that “Motor Oil” held up better in the higher heat than “Gear Oil”, thus they changed the spec to “Motor Oil” for viscosity endurance purposes.
A guy I spoke to at a dealership said the thicker stuff will hurt you, obviously, in the colder weather, as it will be a lot thicker until it warms up.
Knowing all of this, if I still had the old Diff., I would be putting a thicker (than 30) “motor oil” in it to help it out. I am not a mechanic, so take it all with a grain of salt, but that would be my route… Try the rubber bumper though, might be surprised…[/QUOTE]
That vent tube will not help to remove the oil. The vent attaches high up on the case. Instead, remove the fill plug and use a small hose to suck as much of the oil out as possible.
I am curious about the R4F 7.5 hp motor. I really don’t want it to draw more juice as I have the Walmart Marine batteries. R4F says its more efficient and has more power with the same current draw. So if I don’t have the controller reprogrammed will I notice a big difference?
[quote=GEMmechanic;8188]I have been using 80W90 in all four GEMs for several years now. Gear noise has been reduced, especially on the older GEMs. There have been no problems in cold weather. If you choose to run “motor oil,” I would suggest “non-detergent” motor oil.
Daniel[/quote]
I have been looking for information on gearbox maintenance. How to actually change the oil, recommended oil, etc.
(2001 GEM e825)
No info in manual or online for recommended maintenance for the gearbox. Can anyone guide me through the process.
Much appreciated
Sam
