what would be the best dc motor to use for a conversion? the car weighs a little over 2000 plbs. a model number for the motor would be nice, but any info is helpful. thanx!
well, we can’t really chose one for you, its not that easy.
You need to let us know what type of car, (you mentioned weight), acceleration needed, speed needed, is it going on highway? range? etc.
Do you need regen braking? are you looking for low cost?
don’t need regenerative braking, it will be going on the highway so it needs to go at least 70 (since it will be hooked up to my 5 speed i don’t think top speed will be a problem), i’m looking for decent acceleration; lets say 0-60 in at least 8 seconds, range doesn’t really matter, and the car is a 1977 toyota celica. that’s pretty much what i’m looking for, any motor that can produce close to these results is fine…since i’m new to the whole ev thing i’m not sure what to look for in a motor. thank you!
[QUOTE=csablack1;4615]don’t need regenerative braking, it will be going on the highway so it needs to go at least 70 (since it will be hooked up to my 5 speed i don’t think top speed will be a problem), i’m looking for decent acceleration; lets say 0-60 in at least 8 seconds, range doesn’t really matter, and the car is a 1977 toyota celica. that’s pretty much what i’m looking for, any motor that can produce close to these results is fine…since i’m new to the whole ev thing i’m not sure what to look for in a motor. thank you![/QUOTE]
I’d say a bat pack running over 144V with a 144-156V controller, 600+ amps, with a 10" motor from Netgain (Warp 10 or higher).
We’ve got a 156V 600Amp+ controller, USB programmable, has contactor drivers for forward/reverse/main. That would match well with a netgain motor of similar specs. 600A is not continuous, but the requirement you have of 0-60 in 8 seconds, you’d need a decent motor to push a 2000lb car full of lead to 60mph in 8 seconds.
What Frodus said sounds right. But I don’t think you want to push 600 amps. If you only use one stirng of batteries then you would kill your batteries.
So, I would sugust eather installing an amp meater and try to keep your amps blelow your batteries AH rateing.
Or shove 12 more batteries in there, to deal with the power draw. However If you add more batteries you will add allot of wheight (which will decreace preformace).
Try to dump as much wheight (safely) as you can.
Hope this helps
But I don’t think you want to push 600 amps. If you only use one stirng of batteries then you would kill your batteries.
motor side, not battery side. power in = power out - controller losses. If you’re PWMing at 10% throttle (during acceleration) of the pack voltage of 144V, thats 14.4V average, but you may actually see 600A on motor side. 8640W (thats not that much). so, what is 8640W on the battery side? 60A. my motorcycle puts over 350A to the motor accelerating from a stop. Battery side this is only about 75A (I’ve got a 72V pack) which is about 25% PWM from a stop. Cars will push over 15kW from a stop. 144V pack, about 100A. Ask the guys with cars why their shunt meter shows over 400A? That high amp rating is motor side amps.
So, I would sugust eather installing an amp meater and try to keep your amps blelow your batteries AH rateing.
why below the Ah rating? the Ah rating is a 20hour rate. 2-3C should be no problem, in fact MOST people out there do it that way. my bats are 18Ah batteries, and I suck more than 40A out of them (2 parallel packs of 72V 18Ah). Gets me about 15 miles.
Or shove 12 more batteries in there, to deal with the power draw.
power draw? or current draw, pick one.
over 500A is NOTHING for a car to draw from a stop. Why do you think they use Curtis or Zilla? Because an alltrax won’t cut the beef.
thanks that is very helpful, i’ll let you know what works