I see on an another post that you say :
I will try to clean the 23 pin connector of the controller.
And I would like to know if the main contactor needs to close when I put the key on ? Because mine don’t close when I put the key on
No. The Main Contactor is the LAST thing that will close when the car is ready to go. Do not try to manually push it in. Doing so at the wrong time can damage the motor controller.
Yes, it appears there is an issue with the controller not booting up. When you KeyON (in your case SwitchON), check for B+ on the small Orange wire going to the Main Contactor.
I receive the DC/DC converter but when I plug it, it does nothing.
I will test this later because I need to redo the wiring of my auxiliary battery because I take off the wire to put the DC/DC converter
I redo my wiring and it does the same thing as before : there are the temp, the turtle, the wrech, the indicator of the forward or backward and the yellow and green bars of the battery are blinking.
I clean it but it does nothing more.
I check between the small orange cable and the batt- but I have 0V
I check between the small orange cable and the batt- but I have 0V
Your controller is not getting the signal to power ON.
On the bottom of your fuse panel are 3 round fuses. Check/change the far right side fuse F13.
I check the fuse and it’s good but I look into the fuse location and the bottom was full of dirt so I clean it and now all works 
There is just one problem is that the main contactor is not close so I recheck the tension on the small orange wire like you say here :
And I have B+ so I will replace the MC because I think it’s broken
I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the wheels will turn !
Thanks for your advices because I’m sure the car wouldn’t run without you.
There is just one problem is that the main contactor is not close so I recheck the tension on the small orange wire like you say here :
No. Ignore the relay for now.
That relay will close when the car is ready to go.
The car is not ready because it thinks the hand brake is applied. (see illuminated BRAKE (!) symbol on the display).
Resist the temptation to manually force the relay closed. The car will not go.
We touched on this earlier but skirted around the issue because other errors needed to be dealt with first.
Test the handbrake loop
- KeyOFF
- Drop Hand Brake
This should produce a steady beep. To silence the beep, introduce one of two actions.
- Apply Hand Brake, or
- KeyON.
Confirn (Y/N)?
→ (Last I had you do this- the answer was No.)(Post 39).
If the answer is still NO, then locate the twin cube relays below the windshield on the passenger side.
One of them controls the beep, and the other controls the light on the display. They are pressed into their holder/bases. pull them out, inspect the contacts, swap them R>L and try the hand brake test again.
Verify that the Red/w wire is connected to S6 on the front of the PSDM. Not the A or B connection. It is easy to make this mistake. Note that there are two connections BELOW the red wire(most likely unused)
Return with your results.
The brake indicator is illuminated because the hand brake is applied and when I remove the hand brake the brake indicator goes out but the MC still not closing
Tip- Do not assume/disregard/bypass/jump ahead over instructions.
That is how some of the simplest clues are overlooked and we then spend days running down an incorrect path looking for the next thing why your car is not running.
It also burns up time when I type out a series of instructions on a path that doesn’t apply because we are not on the same page.
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The brake indicator is illuminated because the hand brake is applied and when I remove the hand brake the brake indicator goes out but the MC still not closing
There are two parts to the handbrake test. You only answered the second part.
-
Does it produce the continuous beep?
-
The light going off when the Hand Brake is dropped is a good sign.
What next?
Then release the hand brake, and apply a little accel pedal.
What happens?
Does the Main Relay snap closed?
And the car try to go?
-or-
Does the dash display change from 0 to another number and a yellow wrench show up?
If number- What is that number?
Tip- You might want to lift both front wheels up off the ground (if not done so yet). If this car decides to go, it might take off on you if not fully prepared and path is clear.
nothing
no
It seems normal on the dash display
no there are no changes. It stay like on the picture I send before
Then inspect the pedal connector. Remove the plug where it attaches to the sensor, inspect, and re-install.
That’s weird but now the MC is closing normally so it’s good the car is working.
Thanks for all your tips again !
??!?!?!?!? The car now works?
How well does it work?
I would think this car has been sitting so long that the motor brushes would be stuck for sure.
yes
I don’t know why the MC works now
But I think there are some other minor problems
Like what minor problems?
The turn signals are not doing any sounds when there are active, the turn lights at the rear goes on at the same time as the brake lights when the break pedal is press and the charger is not program for Lithium batteries like mine and I don’t really test the car yet so maybe other thing can be bad
The turn signals are not doing any sounds when there are active
They don’t usually make any noise unless you leave it on too long. I sometimes lie awake at night toying with best way to do this. If you leave them on too long, a delayON timer activates a signal warning module. It is LOUD!! (find it under dash over on driver side at base of windshield). First time I left my turn signal on I almost crashed thinking my car was going to blow up!
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the turn lights at the rear goes on at the same time as the brake lights when the break pedal is press
The turn signal and brake share the same bulb filament. This is common practice in the US. If you need to meet a Euro lighting standard you will need to pull a new wire and run it to the back of the car and install a new light for brake. You could probably use the 3rd Center High Brake Light easy enough.
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charger is not program for Lithium batteries like mine
When your car was built, there was no Lithium option. If you are going to run Lithium battery you should update your charger.
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and I don’t really test the car yet so maybe other thing can be bad
Ok, go test.
Oh ok, I was thinking it was like the other cars.
And for the signal warning module, I know it work because when I put reverse it beep and I agree it’s very loud.
It’s weird because there are two bulbs at the rear. One on the top for the turn signal and one under with two filaments for the brakes and the lights.
Yes I konw but I have a charger programmer.
i don’t know when I will test it because as it was not working so I need to clear the way to get the car out
