The MC is connected now
No- You should have two on the B+ side. (non controller side)
Difficult to see but it looks like you have only one attached.
Verify this cable going down to the Main Disconnect Switch. [In my example, I marked with blue arrows.]
Then anther one that comes from the Battery pack. It is not attached but I see a cable down low marked MC+. That should go up here. [In my example it is labeled in red.]
Yes I know, itâs because the Batt + go on the main disconnect Switch and there is a wire which goes from the main disconnect Switch at the same place as the batt+ to the MC
OK- electrical result may be the same, (depending on which post you hooked it to down there) but, the way I think you have it hooked up, the high current flow now needs to go through another set of connections to get to the motor controller. Each connection has potential for resistance and therefore heat.
Hooking the B+ directly to the MC is best path for the least resistance on this critical system.
The Disconnect switch is only for the lower current subsystems and that cable going down that way doesnât really need the big power feed.
Ok
I will modify this
There is still nothing on the display
Do you think that because of the DC converter ?
I will try to put the old DC converter to see if there is still nothing
No-
Next we try and move on to test if you have your â12v Aux/batteryâ hooked up correctly.
12v DC comes into the car via the J4 harness plug.
Pins A and B are 12v powered when Key is ON
Pin C is 12v constant
Pin D is 12v enable from key to wake up pins A and B from DC Converter
Pin E is B+ supply to Converter
Pin F is -12v NEG from converter.
Also note you need to run a -12v NEG from your Aux battery to ChassGnd.
Note- It is a good idea to install a 10a fuse at your Aux battery just in case you get something wrong.
Verify that you have +12v on Pin C. This will supply power to the PSDM and allow the Key to close the Key Relay.
If you supply +12v POS to A and B via your jumper harness, then the Accessories should be active.
This assumes J4 is plugged back into the PSDM.
Iâve got a problem ! There is no +72V between the J4 position E and the - batt
Iâve got a problem ! There is no +72V between the J4 position E and the - batt
Are you checking with the J4 connector removed from the PSDM? (probing the end of the connector?)
If yes, then there wonât be power there.
That +72 actually comes from the PSDM.
It is not of concern at this point since that +72 wire can be ignored for this test since it supplies power TO the DC Converter which is currently missing.
The minimum you need on J4 is +12v (Pos) on the White wire (Pin C), and -12v (Neg) on the Black wire (Pin F) going into the PSDM and KeyON. This 12v dc should be supplied by your patch/jumper battery you were wiring up at the front of the car through the DC Converter plug.
What is result when KeyON?
Verify (Y/N?)
Yes
oh ok
Iâve try to put the old DC converter but there is nothing
Nothing
I didnât have time to check with the 12V battery because the driver door wouldnât close anymore so I fix it
I will try to check with the 12V battery maybe tomorrow, Iâll keep you posted
What do you mean by the end of the connector ?
You talk about the connector on the psdm or the connector at the end of the wires ?
I think the harness is cut somewhere because I put 12V in the connecter which plug to the DC converter but when I look at the other end which plug to the psdm I have nothing
I test with a continuity tester and itâs all good so thatâs weird
There is 12v going into the psdm because the assessories works and when the 72V is disconnected, the display goes on with the charger indicator on low contrast
I suggest start over at the DC Converter (Deutch) plug where you inserted all of your orange wires. Pull all of that out.
From what I can tell, it looks like you might have the plug oriented correct, but verify you are using the correct pins reference to the Surepower wiring diagram (which you provided up in this post #3).
Note that this diagram is looking into the converter. It is mirror image looking into the connector. Look for the gap of pins 2 and 11 that are not used, then look for the 3 black wires which would be -12v Neg.
run a wire from your -12vNeg post on your jumper battery into one of the pins at 4, 5, or 6 (I believe they are all connected), but also run a wire from your jumper battery to frame/ChassGnd.
Insert +12v Pos (fused) from your jumper battery into the connector on pins 9&10 and verify at the back of the plug that you are using the WHITE wire. Note that the colors referenced on your diagram are not correct for 12v unswitched. I can see this on your pic of J4.
Verify that there is now 12v on Pins C and F (White and Black) on J4.
With J4 plugged in, Verify that you have 12v down on S6 Accessory connection. Use ChassGnd for your other meter probe for reference.
Green Interlock wire must be connected to B+ source and verify nothing appears on your display.
Then KeyON.
What do you get on your Dash Display?
I have the +12V on the white wire and on the S6 Accessory connection but when I put the key on there is nothing on the dash display
-
What do you have across B+ and B- on the front of the PSDM?
Verify that Main Disconnect Switch is ON. -
Locate/recover that Red/w wire that we pulled off S6 and install onto
Drop handbrake for a moment. Does this produce a steady Beep?
If YES, then KeyON. Does beep stop? -
Check fuses F5, F9, F10. Also verify these fuses have 12v (ref ChassGnd)
I have around 80 volts
The red/white wire is connected to S6 and it does nothing. No beep
All the fuses are ok and there is 12V on it
I change the key switch by a basic switch and now the display goes on but there are some indicator blinking
As you can see on the pictures, there are the temp, the turtle, the wrech, the indicator of the forward or backward and the yellow and green bars of the battery are blinking.
I tried to clean the temp sensor and speed sensor of the motor with contact cleaner but nothing change and I tried to acces to the secret menu by pressing the trip button but nothing.