Never mind. It was still set up for 24s. Anything else I should change before charging or driving the car?
Set to 300amps?
Are you using lcd to monitor?
Most of the default setting should be fine, except charge protection.
Took it for a spin and everything worked!! I’m not using the lcd. Just Bluetooth. But then when I got back I undid b+ to re route the cable and when I put it back on the stud pulled out! Nooooooooo!!
It never ends. Anyone know how to fix that? I have an extra battery to use. But I would like to salvage this one if possible.
So I’ve been messing with the Bluetooth bms for a couple days and I have a few questions…
How do you get it to stay on automatic eq or charge eq? It will equalize for about thirty seconds then turns equalization off. If it is charging it will continue to charge until it hits the single cell high voltage limit and then it goes onto overlimit eq and seems to drain all cells even the low ones
Also, it sometimes flashes between charge/automatic eq and eq off
The high balance limit is lower than hvc.
Hvc is pretty high for long life.
4v-4.15v is what I use.
The balance start voltage is pretty high also.
I have ,what I think is a Chargery C4012b issue, hoping , your forum expertise can help me once again, as you guys are way brighter than me.
This may be directed at Inwo, as I am using one of his harnesses to connect from a 12 cell 46 volt,Chevy Volt battery to the Chargery unit.
Reference…
Pic 1 Chargery C4012b reading of cells pic( Note that it shows cell 1 at 2.37 volts.)
Pic 2 shows voltmeter reading of cell 1 .at 3.51
All other 11 cells ¬¬¬¬¬¬ read between 3.5 and 3.56 on voltmeter,( I confirmed readings on a second voltmeter)
Pic 3 is of connection check error message on Chargery when attempting to enter charge mode.( I have checked and rechecked connections.
Questions… In your opinion…
a. Is this voltage conflict on cell 1, a Chargery BMS issue? or a wire connection issue?
b. I am using your 3 module yellow harness, with only 1 module plugged in. Can your split yellow harness designed for 3 modules be plugged into 1- 46v module instead of 3?
c. Why do you think the Chargery show a connection issue ( only when trying to charge)?
I am now quite familiar with the Chargery unit. I actually had to retype and re interpret the core of the Chargery manual. Jason Wangs, choice of words, missing words, and disjointed order of progression , made it almost impossible to read . If anyone needs a North American version, of the core of the manual , I have it all typed up. tk
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You can use the harness on a single module.
Did you check voltages at jst plugs? Center two pins the same?
Oh wait. You need to replace fuses when using high balance current. New Chevy modules are fused at 680ma and will blow at 1 amp balance current.
I do not sell the C4012.
I do know all about it if anyone needs info.
Ps. are these from Kelvin?
You phoned me?
Kelvin told me fuses were jumpered. I can’t see from the picture.
Hi Dave, Thanks for getting back, as always you have the right answers with the right questions. Yes, they are from Kelvin, supposed to be 2018 Gen2. I am trying to salvage , 1 of the 3 modules. Other double module won’t recover on cell 12 ( voltage shows zero)
Anyways the voltages testing on this single module are promising. They all seem to be maintaining around 3.5 volts.(on voltmeter) I was hoping to use the Chargery unit to get it up to snuf before taking back up to my cabin ( for solar). Its just not cooperating. You asked if they were jumpered ? ( he said yes) I don’t know what to look for as the fuses are all sealed in plastic. How do i tell if they are jumpered or blown? If need be i can jumper them with solder and wire . Can you explain the error message that comes up on the Chargery?
The charger is too smart to charge with a dead cell.
Picture is not quite clear enough to see jumpers. If they have been jumpered the plastic will have been cut off to reveal the fuse. There will be solder showing. He may have put a dab of black rtv on top.
Find the blob nearest cell 1. Test voltage on both sides of fuse.
You can also carefully probe the pins in socket. One will be zero volts. Across from it will be #1. About 3.7v.
I think i see the markings now. Cv00 is B-. Cv01 is #1.
The blob above cv01 is fuse #1.
Also see an added wire on fuse 3 soldered to rivet. Should be fine.
Kelvin may have had trouble in that area. F1 and F3 are adjacent.
Thanks again… I’ll keep you posted after performing the recommended electrical surgery.tk
Okay the mystery continues. I tested voltage with voltmeter on all cells again, Jst connections, Top of battery black connector and also recorded the Chargery voltages. The Chargery is the only place I could find cell 1 reading 2.37, in fact all cells read above 3.5 on JST, Black Bat con, and individual cells. Anyways I got the bright idea to run the Chargery BMS on a completely different bat.module**** , Walaa… It worked, and the charger even started up with no error message. So I think ,I can I rule out the Chargery and also the yellow leads.
Back to the other bat. module with the 2.37V contradiction anomaly . I scraped the back plastic off 4 jumped wire fuses. Tested them as I knew how. See picture showing the readings. Cell 1 read 3.55, Cell 2 read 7.13 Cell 3 read 10.69. Then there was a 4 th jumped fuse, that didn’t appear to be associated with any cell. It read 0 zero. I also have attached a link( below the picture) to a video of me testing them. Can you confirm that I was doing it right? Any other thoughts would be appreciated….tk
Okay… Slowly narrowing down the culprits, I am now suspecting it is the jumping of the fuses
Two issue as I can see it, 1. The size of the wire that Kelvin used is considerably heavier than what you recommended a few weeks back . You recommended I take a single strand of the yellow harness wire and use that as a quasi fuse break. His wire is at least 10 times heavier gauge than that. See pic for comparison. , also , he has wire/fused the top of the 3 batteries different from each other. Note he has used a white wire to connect to the rivets of one of the cells on 2 of the bat modules and on the third he did not use the white wire at all. The one that does not have the white jumper to cell rivet, I have the least problem with. Inwo… can you comment? tk
I don’t have time to study your reply tonight.
It’s a matter of finding where voltage is dropping and wiring around it. It may be between fuse and socket. No easy repair for that. If jumpers are too large to melt, a short will damage something else.
Here is a repair harness I made for someone who burned the socket pins.
It may be possible to solder or connect to rivets. I use a punch and machine screws.
https://www.riogrande.com/product/swanstrom-hole-punching-pliers-3-5mm/111787
https://www.riogrande.com/product/swanstrom-hole-punching-pliers-4-5mm/111788
As a total beside, and as a total fluke, I just picked up this 2017 gen 2 volt pack 25 miles from my home just outside of Vancouver.
Auto wrecker had it, 28,000 km on car. It is incredibly balanced,
All the 12 cell modules read 46.2 volts and with an individual cell variance of only .03. Wish i did this from day one. The experience with Kelvin has cost me countless hours of frustration, and now he won’t refund me for the batteries.
Anyways… at least something working out good…tk
Hi Dave,
Would you be interested in purchasing my 3- 48 volt module 2018 Chevy volt batteries? This has gone way beyond my capabilities.
One module is totally in balance, One measures close to balance but has a Chargery anomaly, the third module has a cell 12 that reads zero? Let me know, Thanks, tk
I could use them, but shipping is a deal killer. What about the 16s modules?
Be careful not to let the Charger mess up the new ones.
Re the 3 -2018 modules.I am driving down to Phoenix in 3 weeks, i could ship them from there. Just need assistance on how to package and ship.
I paid 110 cad to ship 3 modules from Ottawa Ontario to Vancouver when i initially bought them from Kelvin.
Re the 3-16 S modules from the 2017, I want to sell them too, just don’t know what is better, splitting the 4 S off each… combining and selling as 4- 12S- 48 V modules or keeping them as is. I guess its value versus time? I want to keep the remaining 4 - 12 S
Best case, post a map, and hope you can drop them on the way.
To ship them all, it’s best to put them on a pallet and ship all at once. Not easy unless you know a business set up for shipping pallets.