Interesting…
It does sound like you have a stuck relay.
What are you using for Reverse lights?
Try initiating KeyON with Direction Switch in either DL or DH. (not Rev)
Do your Reverse lights instantly go active?
Confirm (Y/N?)
If No - then click Direction Sw to Rev
You should hear Beep from PSDM
and Rev lights should go active.
Confirm (Y/N?)
Then Direction Sw to DL
Rev Lights should go dark.
Confirm (Y/N?)
Hi, thanks for the reply. I found the wire but any insight on why the pin out from the PSDM does not function as a reverse light? From what I have pieced together looking at various threads is the forward/reverse switch signal goes to the controller and the controller outputs to the PSDM to output voltage. The car has a rebuilt T4 controller. It was also missing the battery charger that doubles as the voltage converter. I ended up putting a sure power converter in it using the associated wire harness from what I assume was an earlier year that used the sure power converters.
That is what I’m trying to help you isolate with the specific instructions listed above. (which you seem to have completely ignored).
I ended up putting a sure power converter in it using the associated wire harness from what I assume was an earlier year that used the sure power converters.
That works and is most likely not related to your reverse light issue.
Sorry, I completely missed that.
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Try initiating KeyON with Direction Switch in either DL or DH. (not Rev)
Do your Reverse lights instantly go active?
Confirm (Y/N?) yes
If No - then click Direction Sw to Rev
You should hear Beep from PSDM
and Rev lights should go active.
Confirm (Y/N?) I get the beep from PSDM and lights stay on
Then Direction Sw to DL
Rev Lights should go dark.
Confirm (Y/N?) Lights stay on but there is a slight flicker.
Lights stay on after KeyOff for about 30 seconds then fade out.
Lights stay on after KeyOff for about 30 seconds then fade out.
This is the DelayOFF of the 12v Acc side of the DC Converter. I’m not sure why it is there.
Next - Unplug the 23p Main Harness Connector from your Motor Controller.
Power up the car and see if your Reverse lights still light up.
Confirm (Y/N?)
Is this thread still active? I just noticed it and did some boredom reading.
Fwiw, don’t trust digital (high impedance) meters when testing lighting circuits. Use a 12v test light. It may use solid state switching, which despite my labeling it, is not solid like dry contacts. Read, leaky!
Ps. Doubly true for 120v circuits. I know the guy. Knows everything about wiring. He can even do two trenty!
Fwiw, don’t trust digital (high impedance) meters when testing lighting circuits.
I agree. It is one of the reasons I asked what was being used as a reverse light.
LED’s are not much of a load, but I have some that I’m trying on mine and it works without issues.
Oddly enough, the wiring diagram actually hints that this might be a relay attached to this task. It must be tiny or most likely solid state. I’ll see if I am eagle eyed enough to track it down. It is most likely shorted/latched/closed
I unplugged the harness from the motor controller and the revers lights still light up.
As expected I get some flashing lights on the gauge display as soon as the KeyOnAs and there is no beep from the PSDM when I click Direction Sw to Rev.
Got it. Thanks for humoring me with my sometimes overly excessive testing before coming to a conclusion.
I unplugged the harness from the motor controller and the revers lights still light up.
Disconnecting the Controller tells me the RevLight is not being triggered by P13(which I think is pulsed anyway).
It may be important to clarify the condition of the DirectionSW when powering up (MainSwON). I suspect you had it on something other than REV for this test (then switched it to REV to test for beep).
I didn’t really need the KeyON at this time.
It seems fairly obvious that there is something wrong with your PSDM. It is fairly rare, but glitches happen.
I’m guessing it might be the little white Omron chip pictured above. ← (total guess without actual probing), or whatever feeds this chip (perhaps an upstream transistor shorted in ON state). I find it odd that this chip is marked as 12v, but the diagram shows a -72v on the non control side of the coil. (It wouldn’t be the first mistake I found in these docs)
The way I see it - you have several options.
You only wish you knew as much as that guy. He’s the bestest!
Or, if good with a DMM you could measure the voltage drop across those 2 10K resistors(5K equiv) and if you see a voltage drop with the switch in all positions(DH,DL,R) then the problem is before this circuit. If you see the voltage show up when the switch is in R but not when in DH,DL then the problem lies after the resistors, ie in the relay.
If you want to estimate what the voltage drop would be then find out what the relay coil resistance is, add it to the 5K ohms of the 2 parallel 10K resistors and that’s your circuit Equiv resistance.
V=IR is Ohms Law and to find I you take V/R(72/Requiv) to get I, to get the voltage across the 2 10K resistors you multiply your I * R to give you V.
