On 23p connector of controller.
No need to test for B+ as no clunk. Clunk needed to turn that on.
I didnāt get a chance to test P1 and P2 yet. I did however bypass a relay that someone else suggested. I pulled the white and grey wires off of the relay and temporarily installed a fuse. Got the clunk and everything worked. This individual indicated that I have a bad relay.
That makes senseā¦
Thought it was solved with the relay but itās not. I removed the relay and tested it out of the vehicle. Tested good. Tested wires in the vehicle and it looks like itās not getting power to trigger the relay.
Also tested pins 1&2 as suggested by INWO. Iām not 100% sure if Iām testing the correct wires but those have no power.
Someone suggested the DC to DC converter because 12 volts is needed to trigger the relay. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Does your beeper sound when you drop the e-brake handle [key off]?
Then test it again with handle up [key on]?
Also- does it beep when you flip switch to reverse?
Do you know where your DC/DC converter is located?
Post a picture so we can see what you have.
When I first turn on the power I get a code 55. There however is no 55 in the manual.
When this intermittent problem first started I was getting the buzzer when the parking brake was dropped. This time however everything is dead. Tried putting it in reverse and still nothing. No back up alarm. I donāt know how to post a photo but I was told by a Gem dealer when he checked the VIN that mine was upgraded. I think the PWB and the DC to DC converter are the same thing. Mine is a black finned box on the passenger side. Someone suggested that this may be the problem but I hate to start throwing parts at it without a good diagnosis.
The enclosed, black finned DC/DC converter is the upgraded unit. Original recalled unit was an exposed PCB (printed circuit board).
Does anyone know how to test the DC to DC converter?
In general, check for 72v in and 12v out.
Makes sense but I wasnāt sure which wires to test on the plug going into the converter.
Also wasnāt sure if something else (like the Controller) was supposed to tell the converter when to turn on.
If you have 12v anywhere itās working.
12v to pin 3 from charger and key turns on switched 12v. p7 and p8
p9 and p10 always on 12v.
P1 and p12 always on 72v from battery.
This is why I was having you try the beeper/e-brake/reverse test. It may have seemed insignificant and not related but not getting any beep says you may not have 12v coming out of your DC/DC. (providing beeper has not been previously silenced or bypassed).
Maybe just pull the connector on the converter and inspect the connectors and pins and reinstall a few times will clean up a marginal connection? Spritz in a bit of WD-40 for good measure.
I have 72 volts going into the converter and no 12 volts coming out anywhere. Iām just a little puzzled because the first several times the cart died I had everything 12 volts working. This time however the cart is completely dead except for a 1 or 2 second read out on the dashboard where it shows 55 and the odometer. Then the display goes blank.
I thinking that I may have more than one problem.
I guess I will roll the dice and buy a converter.
Big thank you to everyone for your suggestions.
DC to DC converter is on order. Will give update soon. Keeping my fingers crossed this solves the problem.
Installed the converter today. Absolutely no difference. Dashboard lights up for a few seconds and then goes blank. Nothing else works. I rolled the dice and lost $300. Could it be the controller?
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a few posts back you were bypassing relays, jumping wires. Have you put that all back the way it was? (with quality connections)
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When you tested the converter you quoted-
I have 72 volts going into the converter and no 12 volts coming out anywhere
Can you be more specific?
Describe what you did in this test.
Where exactly did you poke your meter leads?
Also- what action lights up your display? when you flip the main breaker on, or does it remain blank until you switch on the key?
When it is on does it still show code 55 before it goes dark?
Everything was put back together. I pulled the plug out of the converter where I found 72 volts on the 2 high voltage wires. I think it was pin 1&12 on the plug. I didnāt test any of the 12 volt wires coming directly out of the converter but nothing 12 volts works on the car.
When I switch on the main battery switch I get the odometer reading then 55 before it goes blank. After that everything is dead. Turning the ignition key does nothing. When I removed the converter I found 2 ground wires next to the converter that were extremely loose. Thought I found the problem but no such luck.
Does the Controller have anything to do with the 12 volt electrical system?
Thank you soooo much for your help.
No nothing.
You need to check for 12v at the converter while it has 72v.
If a new converter does not have 12v out then the Gem 12v system is shorted and converter is shut down.
This is where things are going a bit sideways.
When we say to test for power going in and out of the DC/DC then you should test exactly that. Assuming often leads to incorrect paths and frustration.
Depending on what your car originally came with and who did your DC/DC swap you probably have a real nice sealed plug on the back of your converter that is hard to probe. Do the wires after that have any butt connectors inline on any of the wires anywhere? (like somebody just patched it in? Follow them through the firewall into the cab. (It is possible they just installed a factory loom all the way to the PSDM).
If this is the case you will have to actually pierce the insulation of the wires to test for your missing power. Some meters have real sharp probes that can do it if you press hard enough. Otherwise get a couple of straight pins. Donāt stick your finger and donāt let them touch each other! Scrolling back a few posts shows the pinouts of the plug. You already established that 72v is going in on 1 and 12. At the other end of the plug you have 6 and 7. Iām betting you DO NOT have 12v at 6 and 7. You can still use your pin stuck in the black wire coming off 6, but move your probe/pin over to 9 or 10. You SHOULD have it there.
What I do not see in MY 2009 are the two 30A fuses shown in this diagram. Mine must have been moved. When you are in there poking around keep an eye out for them and check those.
If you DO find 12v power between wires 9 or 10 and 6, then proceed.
I think you should check your key switch. Take apart half of the dash pod and get to the wires coming off the back of the switch. Disconnect the little plug and jump those. Does anything else light up?
Report back with your results.
Already checked key (ignition ) switch several times. With a meter and bypassed it. Yes that plug on the converter is difficult to test. I will follow your recommendations and check it out tomorrow. Iām worn out for today. Canāt thank you guys enough. Iām a car guy. Been working on automobiles my whole life. This however is a different kind of animal.