Hello all! I have been contacted by a friend that purchased 4 2018 e6 from what seems to be a surplus auction. These units were originally May Mobility units with 3 150ah Allcell batteries and two Zivan SG3 chargers. These were supposed to be autonomous vehicles for public transit so we don’t know what was done to interface with the interlock system. We can’t even differentiate factory Gem wiring from aftermarket. I’m having trouble finding information on the Allcell battery BMS and wondering if anyone here can provide assistance. Simple pinout of the board attached would be a great start!
Thanks
First, you should determine if those batteries have any V left in those batteries. Are they worth saving?
If you can’t find out any info (try Allcell?) can you get to the cells? If they have BMS Cell taps(on each cell) spend some time and map out the pins and consider swapping that BMS board out to something easier to deal with.
Post a few pics of the components you are looking at. Chances are they bypassed everything in there anyway. Depending on your intent and what they left you, this may be quite a project.
There is voltage prior to this 12v contactor. Verified 12v will pull in contactor by disconnecting from BMS board and jumping it. What I’m specifically looking for is what pins energize the board. With that the BMS could pull in the contact then I’ll have voltage outside the battery case.
Below battery looks a little over charged
We have a total of 12 batteries and they are all wired the same with a large contactor and BMS board inside the battery case.
Thanks for the quick response!
Oh yeah forgot to mention yes the fuse after the contactor is good…
Resist the temptation to manually trigger relays and randomly jumping things just to get the car to light up something. If done at the wrong time bad things can happen, Some of these things will let out smoke easily and it can be expensive to get smoke reinstalled.
More better to study what you have, what might be missing, and what it will take to get these cars running.
It is real tough to get an idea from two pictures.
Ok so I’ll Jump here.
I assume you want to bring them back to Manual driving, I’ve got some
Of these as well and half of their electronics was scrapped.
Send me a Pm if you need some Extra info
As far as jumping the contact I did some research…
This made me confident enough to supply it 12v to make sure it cycled and the contacts inside were not hanging up. All the while being completely disconnected from BMS board.
I am assuming by other BMS systems the board is energized with 12v.
The following is what I have mapped out so far:
J13BMS----------Case plug--------Veh.Harness
1-current loop white
2-current loop (-)
3-current loop (+)
4-Contactor Coil(-)
5-Contactor Coil(+)
6-Can High---------2-Yellow--------2-Yellow
7-Can Low----------3-Green--------3-Green
8-small 12v relay black(lower left corner)
9-small 12v relay white(lower left corner)
J6BMS---------Case plug--------Veh. Harness
1-blank
2-blank
3-12v led(-)
4-12v led(+)
5-Black ---------4-Black--------4-Blue
6-White----------6-White--------6-Red
There is a button next to the park brake lever that seems to be “Ignition” and turns on some of the 12v circuits. Some of the small relays pull in electronic power steering comes alive and constantly dithers to center/straight. All that to say I have 12v but none of the pins at the battery connector have 12v+ in relation to Ground of 12v battery.
These cars were over engineered and Simplified things work better than over engineered ones . Like assy said. grab an external bms and forget about that one. if the charger doesn’t work I can reprogram it for you.
Battery and charging solved.
You’ll have a lot of scrap trust me
