I’m not sure if it was running when stored, it only has 2,000 miles on it.
There Is a smaller dead red wire in the battery compartment and there is an aux 12v battery in the dash
Good, I was worried that you connected it.
Yes, that would connect to first 12v battery if no aux battery upfront. Not used.
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I’m not 100% sure (but a 95% sure) that it was connected to the 1st battery in my car with aux batt.
Inspect that connector. Does it look like it was installed? (clean nut imprint/scrapes?)
That zip tie does not look new. It has some grime/dust on it.
But did your car also have a 12v battery in the dash?
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Since the small posts on the contactor are showing more than 100 ohms, does that mean that it’s faulty?
Yes, it has aux battery
I’m pretty sure it was connected to traction battery #1 but @Inwo is the guru here
Connecting to both is bad, but would work.
Instructions for aux battery upgrade disconnects wire on both ends.
I only disconnect at rear and use the wire in the front with dci charger upgrade.
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No, I only guessed at a value. If not open it’s fine.
Ok. I’ve just heard that the ohms reading should be very close to 0 when there is no power applied on the small posts. And I can’t get the contactor to click under any circumstances, I’m really starting to think that the contactor isn’t working correctly.
Also, I took the controller apart and tested all the mosfets and they turned out to be good.
Carful not to disassemble too far, It can’t normally be put back outside of the factory jig.
115 ohms does seem high, but it’s a small coil. Just connect coil to 48v to see if it clicks in solid.
A big 48 volt contactor here reads 15 ohms.
Did you test coil open circuit?
Okay so I connected the the small posts to 48v and it did click this time. Previously I had only been connecting it to 12v, I didn’t know it needed 48. And there’s no continuity between the big posts when power is off. When is the contactor normally supposed to close the circuit? When the vehicle is on or when you press the accelerator pedal?
Do you happen to have a wiring diagram?
Contactor pulls in when safety circuits are happy. After boot up.
Connects to the coil driver, analog, output of controller P3 and P4.
48 volts to pull in and 29 volts holding voltage.
I suspect a battery problem, but I don’t know how the bmc would know that there are inadequate batteries connected. The ones you have will certainly drive ok.
All it sees are voltage and current which should be fine.
Let me circle back to your soc display being low.
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Be freak coincidence, one of my controllers in another thread has fault 6.
In that case it’s the throttle position sensor.
Polaris does not use analog throttle inputs to Sevcon controller. Rather uses “drive by can” data.
It is not easy to do, but you can check throttle voltages to Polaris vcm. In the weird case that the Sevcon interpreted a faulty torque demand as a throttle fault.
The two outside wires on throttle plug are the outputs. One is .5v to 2v, the other being 1v to 4v.
These are send to vcm, which interprets them as throttle position, and sends a torque demand to the Sevcon controller via “can bus”.
Okay so if the throttle position sensor was operating correctly then the two outside wires would read .5v and 1v respectively when the pedal is not depressed, right? Also is it the blue wires?
Yes, that’s the reading at 0 throttle.
That’s all I got for now, except trying to get soc reading back up.