New to the forum and just bought a 2015 e4 that seems to have all the same issues Deepercreek has. Multimeter cannot pick up 12V in the J4 connector for any accessories like the display to turn on to see what (undoubtedly) error codes exist. Was trying to start a new post but can’t seem to find the New Topic button.
Happy to post what I’ve tested so far if others are willing to give guidance, unless I need to create a new topic.
No prob. Be glad to help.
If you think this is almost like the thread you tacked onto here, feel free to continue.
Otherwise- tap the c key on your keyboard and it should open up the editor window so you can start your own topic.
It really is remarkably similar. I’ve tried what I believe to be all your suggestions, @AssyRequired , in this topic which makes me think the internal DC converter is busted, or possibly the whole charger. Car is new to me and did not have batteries. Do not know the last time it has run but now has a 24s 110Ah LiFePO4 battery. Battery came with an aftermarket 20A charger, which I hooked up to make sure it can charge the lithium pack, and does, but do not have the aftermarket charger connected anymore.
Will preface that I’m not the most skilled with electrical work. Tried going through steps in the service manual but around steps 5-6 it seems like the steps required 12V to confirm testing which I do not seem to have.
Way to go goose!
Textbook way to start off a post. Anybody else jumping on on this read should use it as a template. It contains info on your setup, what you have tried, and several key tests and results already performed. It shows you have been searching the archives on your own, looking for the answer.
Nice job!
There is so much info in there that I will go back through it again after i toss out my first initial response to make sure I didn’t miss anything.
- Red/white wire is plugged in to S6 but does not have 12V
This is where the needle skips off and across the record for me. If it doesn’t do this, you do not pass GO, Do not collect $200. You are correct in thinking it needs 12v to bring the rest of the car systems online and it seems the DC Converter(which is built into the factory DQ Charger) is having issues.
Your wires from the DQ Charger sound like they still go to the correct place. It should have constant 12vdc output on pin C (ref pin F) at the J4 plug on the PSDM.
To double check this theory/path, I have another test that involves another 12v battery(it doesn’t need to be very big), some wire jumpers (alligator clips), bonus points for a 5 or 10a fuse. See if you can scrounge these up.
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sidebar that may not be related to your 12v issue
The test of the original DQ starts up fine, but you do not say what it does AFTER the initial boot up.
You confused me when you mentioned you will not be using the aftermarket charger intended for this battery? We will come back to this later.
I think the results will be the same in your case, but the handbrake beep/test you quote has one thing wrong:
MDS on, key on, and hand brake down = no beep
Under normal conditions(on a working car), These conditions and result is actually normal. It also would have the dash lighting up (since the Key is ON).
This should start off with
Without 12v present, you probably are not getting a beep in either state.
Appreciate the kudos on trying to be self-sufficent, this thread just ran out of steps for me to test. Have spare fuses and can borrow a 12V battery from the garage door opener, will need to go out and find some insulated alligator clips though.
I brought up the aftermarket charger to list it as an option. If an extrernal DC converter could be used (assuming that is what is broken), I’m open to it as that would probably cost less than getting a whole new DQ charger with DCI. Not trying to jump to conculusions, just want to be more transparent.
Now for new test/results!
The DQ charger does light up when MDS On and plugging in the AC cord and can confirm the charger does charge the battery now! I have not left the DQ charger plugged into AC long enough till today to know that. I don’t know what charing algorithm is set though so don’t want to keep it plugged in for long. Below is light sequence I’m seeing
To check which profile is running, set MDS to OFF (so charger does not see the battery), Plug it in to AC, and watch the display again.
It should go through it’s boot test, Pause for a few seconds, Then flash one of the green lights in a pattern, pause, then repeat. Count those blinks.
Some profiles contain more than one digit. There could be a two and 3 digit code in the sequence.
The sequence will end with a Red(2) flash. (battery not found or out of range. That is normal.
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As a short term test, I doubt this charger would hurt your battery. It doesn’t really matter which profile it is set to.
That power up sequence does not sound normal at all tho. If it was charging, it would settle in with the AC present, possibly the 80% light, and one of the stage lights remaining constant or blinking.
Perhaps the charger can be saved with a software update or a profile change(corrupted profile?). There also might be something really wrong with the output board.
It might also be confused with your choice of battery(you did not give enough info on that). if it is not supposed to be charged with the output, the BMS may be doing something strange.
Q- Where does your new(aftermarket) charger plug in? Does it have a dedicated plug(not related to the output connections) on the new battery? Does it have more than two wires going through it?
In any case, there is something wrong with the DC Converter.
If an extrernal DC converter could be used (assuming that is what is broken), I’m open to it as that would probably cost less than getting a whole new DQ charger with DCI.
You are anticipating exactly where I was going next with the alligator clips. I suppose you could cut the harness off the charger and use the original J4 but I hate butchering up hardware unless I am really sure it is dead-dead.
Don’t be taking apart your garage door opener. What do you have for battery operated power tools?
I tried checking the profile before but saw it was supposed to only show for 11 seconds. Following your instructions, MDS off and AC plugged in, waited till after the self-test and the 80% light blinked 1, paused, then blinked 4 times. It did that sequence 3 times and then had 2 Fault blinks which would indicate profile 14. One thing is very clear this DQ charger is not normal as the profile blinks that started after the self-test took over 2 minutes to complete (thought it’s only supposed to take 11 seconds) before the 2 red Fault blinks. Will say it made it much easier to count as the videos online blink significantly faster (blessing but also cursed).
I got the lithium kit from Kendall Mills on a FB group. The aftermarket charger has two wires, red and black, that connect to the positive and negative terminals of the battery to charge. It also has a level 1 (J1772) EV charging plug and socket (three wires come out of this) to replace the stock 3-prong socket on the hood of the car. It uses a JK BMS.
Unfortunately, all my power tools are 18V or 40V. I was going to borrower the 12V backup battery in the garage door opener as it is floating above the GEM right now. Also, alligator clips acquired!
So the guy you bought the battery from, was this a one time thing? Or is he like a vendor? In which case, why isn’t he supporting your purchase?
Hi. While looking for a solution to my problem, I read this topic, and I see that my case is only partially similar. I don’t know how to start a new topic.
I have a 2007 GEM e4. I drove it for 5 years, and last summer everything started to turn off for no reason. After standing for 20-30 minutes, it would start again. But one day it stopped and never came back on. Everything turned off, the screen too. Based on your recommendations to previous colleagues, I prepared a few steps:
-Both upper/lower dash panels are removed
-Mulitmeter tested at +72v and -72V terminals of PSDM reads 76V
-MDS on, hand brake down = there is beep regardless, key on or off.
-all fuses are good, 13-th too (checked with a multimeter)
-Red/white wire is plugged in to S6 - there is 13.5V
-when turning off MDS, the screen flashes briefly.
I look forward to your advice.
Nice job Anupras!!
Both in doing research and basic pre-testing.
Your problem:
First reaction to the clues provided has me pointing to your Key Switch. Remove the half of your Dash Pod that exposes your Key Switch, locate the wires and plug, disconnect there, then jump the two wires in the plug on the car side of the plug.
What happens? Return with results and further instruction.
I find it very odd that the first 2 vehicle posts went through lots of testing then just stopped and never had a solution. Maybe #3 is the charm.
Nothing has changed.
I’m going to open new topic with the name “2007 GEM e4 dark screen and nothing works”
Nothing has changed.
Meaning jumping the key switch provided no new results?
Check S6 again. Does it still show 12v? (ref ChassGnd)
Keep your probes on these two test points. Then cycle KeyON.
Does 12v remain? Or take a dive to near zero?
Sorry I disappeared. The admin had temporarily suspended me 
Yes, the S6 is still at 13.5V and doesn’t respond to the ignition key position
Confirming again that jumping KeySwitch wires did not light up the display?
Y/N?
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What does Dash Display show when you charge the car?
The display should light up with a charge light/icon, then animated SOC/Battery bar should show on display.
Confirm Y/N?
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Also Verify Charger is active when plugged in to charge.
(Charger has it’s own display on the charger down under the controller.)
As I wrote earlier, the screen does not work.
The integrated charger works, but for some reason the red indicator flashes 2 times. In the service manuals I found that: “[2 FLASH] Battery Voltage Out of Range: the battery
voltage is too high or low to allow charging to proceed”
I have 76V battery voltage
true service manual I have a 2012 GEM, but it seems to me that everything is similar to the 2007
As I wrote earlier, the screen does not work.
Don’t be insulted if I ask questions several times. Remote diagnostics is not easy. Even more difficult if there is a language difference. I need to be sure we are both on the same page. It is real easy to spend days chasing down a problem in the wrong direction because something was missed/misunderstood/or flat ignored in the very beginning.
Such as this:
As I wrote earlier, the screen does not work.
This is only part of what I was asking.
→ Did you try and jump the wires coming out the Key switch? (bypassing the key). Does the car act any different?
Also- when plugged in to charge, Does the Dash display light up?
Did you look?
