2008 4seater
Advance 8 brush motor
Reprogrammed controller
3 year old gels
Car was running great since reprogramming about a yr ago and put in refurbished motor. Noticed some “sputtering” last week going from 2/3 speed to top. Stopped after I slowed down and reaccelerated
Problems increased in frequency to the point now where power is being cut at about about half speed. Occasionally get more power and acceleration acceleration seems normal to 1/3 speed then very intermittent between 1/3 and 2/3 speed. Something isn’t right. No codes.
I agree with OH,
This sounds like your brushes are sticking or your comms are real dirty.
Do you hear some grumbling noises from the front of the car when it sputters?
If you continue to drive it this way you will damage your controller.
@Inwo its stalling at different speeds whine accelerating. Speeds deep kind of random but it typically happens around 1/2 my top speed but it’s happened at higher speeds and slightly Lowe
I have a gem e4 car that has started stalling when accelerating. I’m wondering if it is the motor or if there is an overload sensor somewhere that could be causing the problem. The stalls have been a range of all power loss to just gas pedal stops functioning (not always the same which has confused me) but always happens when accelerating. Usually, I turn the key off and right back on and it works again. No codes either so I am at a loss on how to test things. I couldn’t find any place to oil the motor so I think the best option is to replace the motor since servicing it will be almost the same price here as a new one. Did replacing the motor fix your problem?
Hey shmebby-
When the car stops, Take a quick glance down at your dash display and look to see if the wrench is illuminated. If so- note what the big number showing on your dash is. It is a code from the controller and may be able to help with sorting out this issue.
I put some Nlgi grease on it and it sounds better but still stalling. It has progressively gotten worse too. It stalls with no warning lights. I didn’t make it around the block without it stalling and then it stalled repetitively just before getting back for about 5 stalls and then black out. I’m not sure why but this time it didn’t go right back on when flipping the ignition off and back on.
There is no codes showing when stalling. Sometimes the turtle comes on but that has been an issue for some time but it doesn’t slow down for turtle mode since the batteries are charged. Usually the turtle turns on when it losses full power and everything goes black on the screen. I wish it was more consistent but when stalling it just shows the speed slowing down with the gas not functioning. Then it will sometimes completely black out of power.
Well, that would explain why the stalling got worse! I had looked up what to lubricate an electric motor with and it seemed like the grease was the way to go. So when you said to put oil on the orange circle, I figured that was the bearings and that grease was the way to go. I didn’t realize it was a commutator and wasn’t thinking clearly. I’m good with basic electrical but the mechanics I am a little less versed on. So I just speed up the process of it dying and save myself from getting stranded somewhere, right!
Honestly, I think the motor was on its way out already as I have researched new motors. It came from the beach area which is high salt levels in the air (DC/DC converter was corroded when I got it) and also, it started struggling here when it got hot. We are in Sacramento area where the heat is over 100 during the summer. We took it out a few times when it was around 98 and it had the overheated warning sign come on right away. I realized quickly it couldn’t handle the ambient heat and was annoyed not to take it out when it was hot. The D&D motors specs say that the motor will corrode in salty areas and that the motor temp max is 138 which could have started it’s demise.
So I am looking to replace the motor with the Ride 4 Fun motor upgrade since it says it can handle higher heat levels. Please let me know if you have any other recommendations on motors and I will follow up once that is completed if there are still issues with it stalling.
Go to the hardware or auto parts store and look for CRC electrical cleaners in the red spray cans. There is one you can use on runing equipment and one on non running. Your call. If you want to jack the cart up and have someone mash the loud pedal you want the one safe on energized equipment. The de energized cleaner is more effective, but if you try that with it, you won’t have any eyebrows
As for the motor, give Rodney a holler. @old_houseboater. He rebuilds motors and sells them . Save you a lot of coin vs R$F
Lol!! This would be my luck. I think I will choose to jack things up and drive to no man’s type of spraying the CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner. Just to see if the engine does better again after that.
Thank you for the recommendation on Rodney. I still feel like a motor that can handle our areas temperatures will be needed even if we get this one running again since I would like to be able to use the car all summer and not just spring and fall weather days. We don’t drive it in winter so if we get it running until then, it would be the perfect time to change the motor if that is all that is wrong of course.
