Ok- But WAS that main switch ON when you were testing for power at the controller?
Or did you switch it off just for the picture? That main switch is supposed to be for the whole car. If it was off for the tests you have power going around it.
Otherwise, from what you have given me, here is what I guess so far…
Someone has hacked into the wiring on this thing before you and attempted to bypass a few/many important things. It’s up to you to find and correct them. It doesn’t mean it will work just by putting the wires back, because it probably wasn’t working in the first place.
Here is where I was going with these q’s.
Right now YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE POWER AT THE B+ AND B- ON THE CONTROLLER !!
Someone has bypassed one or more of the many safety features in an attempt to get this car moving. The biggest one is what is called the main contactor. It is the thing that is supposed to go clunk/snap when all the other safety features pass their test. There is something else still holding this car back. One of them is the e-brake switch. Since the beeper isn’t sounding off as it should I’m guessing someone got into that too.
Find out who that person is and slap him. Keep him away from doing any more damage.
Spend some time searching the many years of posts in these forums. Using the right keywords you can find others that have had the same issues, wiring diagrams, pictures, and everything you need.
You will need to call your abilities to trace wires and follow diagrams, probe voltages and be prepared for a lot of head scratching, but be better off in the end.
You won’t necessarily get a clunk when you turn on your key or release the ebrake. My 08 elxd doesn’t clunk until I press the throttle, I do get the quieter click you mentioned though.
Agree- mine does this too. A little press on the “go” pedal (I have issues calling it the gas pedal) energizes the Contactor. After pedal up, a few seconds(?) it unclunks.
His does not do this, BUT he still observes 72v at the controller. I think ALL the time. This is a dangerous condition. Anybody ever have their FETS short closed?
@Gem_e2 - Wow. What an odd place to pick that up! I’m guessing F10 sends power over to Spade 6? Dang! I learned something today!!!
I also had to find this in the 2013 diagram and forget about the one that is actually labeled for my 09 car. I keep finding it is wayyyyy off in spots.
So OK blaze- That blown fuse in F10 is important and may be totally related to some of your issue. The bare wires in your pic that were supposed to go to your brake switch probably touched the frame or something that shouldn’t have. Tape it up for now and replace the fuse.
Did the e-brake light on the pod go out?
What do you get now?
i will replace the fuse tommorow at work, and see if light goes away and go from there.thanks guys.Also first let me say i know probley not a good idea but today i jumped b+ and b- to A1 and A2 just to see if motor would spin and it didnt. Does the motor need more inputs? What is f1 and f2 ?
And just to clarify i only have 72 volts at back of controller with main switch on and key on . 0v with main switch off .I think i explained that wierd before.
Ok- at least the 72v bank goes through the main disconnect breaker. You still shouldn’t have power at the controller yet.
Does the key still control the power at the controller? (main sw ON- Key off?)
If the dash top is off, look around for the main contactor. It will have a bunch of big wires going to it. I bet all of the wires are going to one side of it now.
Does the motor need more inputs? What is f1 and f2 ?
Yes- In a small common hobby motor the armature spins around using electromagnet coils that pull against a couple of stationary permanent magnets glued to the inside of the metal casing. These case magnets create a stationary magnetic field.
In these big motors the permanent magnets in the case are replaced by another set of electromagnet coils to create the stationary magnetic field. These are the F1 and F2 connections on your motor. Yes- they need power too.
When you hooked power to your A1 and A2 (did you get a big spark?), but the armature didn’t have anything to pull against, so it didn’t turn.
This practice is not recommended. (Hopefully you disconnected the controller wires). All this high voltage sparky touchy stuff can generate huge voltage spikes that can backfeed into components that do not like lightning level spikes. You may be setting yourself (your friend) up for a costly controller repair.
A better way to test your motor is to meter it out.
I’d have to look up the exact numbers but this is the basics.
A1 to A2 - 001 (or very close)
A1 to motor case - OL (no connection)
A2 to motor case - OL (no connection)
F1 to F2 - 001~003 (or very close)
F1 to motor case - OL (no connection)
F2 to motor case - OL (no connection)
Ok update installed new fuse no change, still have light on dash . unpluged brake fluid level sensor no change still has light . Also checked voltage at back of controller with main switch on but key off and it has 0 v so thats good.
Because your beeper is still not sounding off I think there is still something unhooked/missing in the e-brake circuit. Test those leads that formerly went to your switch(hopefully you put some tape on it?). Do you find 12v(other end of your meter touching frame?). The begin of the e-brake circuit is connected to the fuse block at the dash. Have you removed the top of the dash yet? We might need to get in there next.
Those wires in your pic look like your wiper wires.
Mine does not have a flag for the black wire, but the motor is grounded to the chassis.
