Think dying in an odd manner

We bought a Ford Think Neighbor from a savvy friend. He said it needed new batteries.

It ran great at first, despite the batteries. (I took it the mile to our daughter’s preschool and back.) Then it started dying rapidly after a full charge. The battery indicator showed full. If I stopped and waited for a while, it would work again. (Perhaps something overheating?) Then it just stopped going – I thought: time for those batteries!

We bought refurbished ones from a reputable battery store – heck, $300 compared with $1500 sounds good while I learn to drive kindly on the batteries. (We’ll get gels the next go round.)

We topped off each battery separately, then topped them off again, hooked together.

The first time we drove it, it died in 1/2 block. We worried the connections weren’t solid – sure enough, one connector seemed particularly hot. We took everything apart, filed all parts, added conductive goo, and buttoned it all up again.

Another drive around the block and everything was great! I even put the lights on and had no troubles at all.

Yesterday evening (the next day,) I wanted to take it on a longer test drive before relying on it for the preschool commute, but it died within 1/2 block again.

The battery indicator showed full. It got progressively slower until it didn’t move – like, in 100 feet! The dash finally died and won’t turn on. The break lights come on, however, and so do the hazards, bright and strong, but not the lights or the dash at all, so the batteries aren’t totally dead.

I just tried it before dawn, hoping the cold would help overheating issues, but the dash still won’t go on. Kinda dead-dead now. When I turn the key, I can hear a click at the keyhole in each mode – the key switch sounds ok.

Been scouring forums for ideas. I don’t think it’s the motor because the dash died. I can’t rule out the refurbished batteries, except that the company has good Yelp ratings and clearly deal with many batteries – for all kinds of applications. Also, I’m suspicious that it is dying in exactly the same way as the old batteries – wouldn’t the refurbished batteries last at least a little longer than the dead ones? The behavior seems the same, and so it seems the batteries might not be the cause.

I admit that I didn’t plug it in after the around-the-block drive the day before. I figured we didn’t drain it much and it would stay charged for 24 hours. Plus, the battery indicator said full, even as it was dying. (With the last batteries, the indicator might drop a single bar before dying, but I figured the dead batteries would do that.) Maybe there’s a short?

One last thing, when I put it in reverse yesterday, the pedal didn’t do anything at first. I pressed gently so as not to floor it off the line. Nothing first time, then a clunk and it moved – solonoid issues? Contactor?

It sure seems like it’s something between the 48V system and 12V system independent of the “ignition” switch.

Questions:
Is it worth checking the motor?
Should I check the resistance in the battery pack? (ie the connections are still poor, despite the care?)
Could the battery cables be bad? (If so, why would the break lights still work?)
Maybe could there be a short – can I check that easily? (ie you can check for a short in a gas car by disconnecting then touching the terminal cable to the battery and looking for a spark. If there’s a spark when everything is off, something is using power.)
Maybe the battery cables? They seemed solid, but maybe that’s why one was hot.
Maybe the (expensive!!) contactor? Any simple way to check that?

What other things should I check?

Sorry for the long a story – just trying to be accurate and complete.

Kiki

PS Yeah, I’m a female, and a software engineer to boot so I’m weak on hardware, but doesn’t mean I can’t follow good suggestions! :slight_smile:

And I’ll take any and all suggestions! Thanx in advance for your wisdom!

I am no expert on the Think. Check the voltage across each battery one at a time. Compare them. They should all read the same. You are getting 12 volt power from the converter, because some of your lights are working. Look for fuses blown. Read the voltage across all of the batteries and plug in the charger. See if the voltage begins to rise. This will let you know the charger is not totally dead. If you are not sure, charge each battery one at a time with a 12 volt charger. Was vehicle stored in cold weather with the batteries run down? That usually ruins them. Are there any error codes displayed?

Daniel

[QUOTE=GEMmechanic;10507]I am no expert on the Think. Check the voltage across each battery one at a time. Compare them. They should all read the same. You are getting 12 volt power from the converter, because some of your lights are working. Look for fuses blown. Read the voltage across all of the batteries and plug in the charger. See if the voltage begins to rise. This will let you know the charger is not totally dead. If you are not sure, charge each battery one at a time with a 12 volt charger. Was vehicle stored in cold weather with the batteries run down? That usually ruins them. Are there any error codes displayed?

Daniel[/QUOTE]

Thanx for the reply!

We checked the batteries together and they’re fine (75V.) Checked the fuses, fine. It ran as a surprise, but didn’t last long. When we pulled up the seat, it smelled like acid! Odd, since they are sealed! One battery felt a little warm, but the others were cold. Something is definitely very odd.

Each battery was fully charged individually before we ganged them together.

It doesn’t get very cold in the Bay Area – it’s equally chilly all year! :slight_smile: We just got the batteries, so can’t tell you how they were stored before now, but it rarely gets below freezing here.

I will report more as we look deeper.

Thanx for your help!

Try checking the voltage after the batteries discharge and look for discrepancies. Even a few tenths of a volt is important.

Daniel

Just want to thank all of you for your help! The problem, indeed, was a bad battery. We identified it, replaced it, and it now runs great!!

As we cleaned the terminals, (my husband’s diagnosis), I said, "hey, someone from the EV forum suggested it might be a bad battery. Shouldn’t we check each of these while it’s open? He sighed. The tester was at a friend’s shop. So we didn’t…and because of that, had to take everything apart twice instead of once! But now it’s done!

Thanx again for all your help! I’ll keep you posted!

Kiki

We replaced one battery and another and finally all of them. You may get a year out of the other batts, but the time may come when you have to replace all of them. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Yes,that’s what I’m going through now with my Gem E2! I got it new in 2010,and it had "wet (lead/acid) batterys in it. The constant checking/filling of them was getting old pretty fast!:frowning: This year the “turtle” would show up after about 3 miles,and the car would go into the “safe mode” (reduced power),and I would creep home! I found two batterys that had flat/dead cells in them. I replaced them with two new Napa battery’s,but never tried the car out. My friend is into NEV’s (He has a ford think,and two Gems). I was talking about it with him,and he said to replace all the batterys,as the others most likley were on “their way out”. After looking over the batterys available I decided to go with Gel Cell batterys. No more checking 36 cells every 30 days!:cheer2: I cringed at the price for a complete set of Gel Cells,but my friend told me I would think they were worth every cent,after I used them for a while! I’m also thinking about up grading to a bigger motor,as the town we live in has more hills,than level ground. the 5 hp motor dosen’t keep the speed up going up a steep hill,with two people onboard,and in the summer it runs hot! Ron

Good luck with your new batteries! And I hope a new motor also helps. We love ours, but get pretty much about 10mi on a charge with these refurb batteries. Just fine for me, since my errands rarely take me farther, and it charges up quite fast (2-3 hours.)

Kiki

[QUOTE=RonS;11244]Yes,that’s what I’m going through now with my Gem E2! I got it new in 2010,and it had "wet (lead/acid) batterys in it. The constant checking/filling of them was getting old pretty fast!:frowning: This year the “turtle” would show up after about 3 miles,and the car would go into the “safe mode” (reduced power),and I would creep home! I found two batterys that had flat/dead cells in them. I replaced them with two new Napa battery’s,but never tried the car out. My friend is into NEV’s (He has a ford think,and two Gems). I was talking about it with him,and he said to replace all the batterys,as the others most likley were on “their way out”. After looking over the batterys available I decided to go with Gel Cell batterys. No more checking 36 cells every 30 days!:cheer2: I cringed at the price for a complete set of Gel Cells,but my friend told me I would think they were worth every cent,after I used them for a while! I’m also thinking about up grading to a bigger motor,as the town we live in has more hills,than level ground. the 5 hp motor dosen’t keep the speed up going up a steep hill,with two people onboard,and in the summer it runs hot! Ron[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=kikiorg;10502]We bought a Ford Think Neighbor from a savvy friend. He said it needed new batteries.

We bought refurbished ones from a reputable battery store – heck, $300 compared with $1500 sounds good while I learn to drive kindly on the batteries. (We’ll get gels the next go round.)
[/QUOTE]

Hi,

We need new batteries in our Ford Think. Where did you get your refurbished batteries? We’re in the San Francisco Bay area.

Thanks,
Dennis

What exactly is a “refurbished” battery? Batteries have a life span. Not sure how you could extend that. The plates slowly go bad over time.

when I bought my last GEL batteries the place offered both new at $190 each or “refurbished” for $90… their sign in front says ‘batteries for $29’… I passed on the place for a couple of years until the hung the Deka sign… I’d checked with my dealer friends and the Dekas would have been about $2000… I think NAPA was at about $240 ea… so a little under $1200 was a real deal… this store is in Wheat Ridge CO and their distributor is Hensley… not sure if they are in other states

Bob

The Dekas are worth the extra money. If you treat them right they will last. I have had mine over 10 years and still going.