Battery temperature sensor repair worked. I just stuck with putting a glob of silicone thermal paste on the end and let the heatshrink overhang a 1/4".
dougl
Just read thru your thread thanks for all the posts. I’m on the fence on buying a 2007 fixer, been using an Ezgo for the last five years. Have you solved your hard ride issues? How about the trans noises?
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I’ve not “solved” the hard ride issue other than it’s a much smoother ride when there are 2 adults in the car. The transmission issue was/is the rubber spacer inside the end of the motor spline socket. The first one I put in was not correct size but the next one was much better.
IIRC the suspension is much better on later models of GEM. I don’t recall the year it changed but for some reason 2005 rings a bell. Best to check through the forum though.
Thanks for the info on disk brake install. I expect to take it on shortly
Dennis
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Discs were pretty easy to install and make a big difference in driving. Plus it’s so light they really don’t wear.
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Our 2001 Toyota Prius died due to my failure to get the transaxle fluid changed and it caused the big MG2 drive motor to fail. It’s been a good car but now it’s destined for the junk yard. But just last year I put 4 new low rolling resistant tires on it and with 14" rims and a 4 x 100mm bolt pattern, I’m hoping the e825-4 will be able to accept these new wheels and tires.
14" instead of 12" shouldn’t change the loading on the transaxle and motor much and probably just a couple of MPH while not having to mod the front or rear fenders. And the timing works since the GEM tires are just about needing replacement.
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I have not put the Prius tires and wheels on yet, nor put in the Leaf Gen4 lithium batteries. But the darn throttle switch is getting on my nerves( error -11 code ) so I found a replacement throttle micro switch for $3 and it’s on the way. https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell/v15t16dz200a02-43415398.html
Will update if it works.
In the meantime, my replacement fuel pump and sender in the dodge diesel is way off and I ran out of fuel at just under 1/4 tank. Towed home and after 3 days still can’t get it primed to working. ugh.
UPDATE: The new switch fits perfectly but, didn’t stop the -11 code on rough roads or accelerating on full charge. I had a feeling it would not since I had removed and cleaned up the original and the spring tension in the switch and contacts seemed fine. It has seemed to reduce the occurrences some.
Going further, I have opened up the steering column and popped out all the switches and one by one inspected the contacts. All were nice bare copper looking except the Forward/off/Reverse switch. All 3 contacts were covered in a thin film of something looking oily. Contact cleaner on a Q-tip cleaned the and I sprayed in the connector too. This was a surfer shuttle so maybe sunscreened oily fingers on the button slowly worked into the switch. So I’ll give the switch itself a spray of contact cleaner too. Update to follow.
I have noticed that when I get lots of -11 codes, if I rapidly cycle the forward/reverse switch it throws the -11 code far less. I think I need to swap it with the turf switch.
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I have updated the batteries to 5.5 Leaf Generation 4 modules.The modules are 14.6V modules(4S) so with 5.5 modules and a 4.0V charge per cell that is 88V fully charged. The default/stock Zivan charger handles this well and stops at 88V.
I placed all 5.5 modules in the center battery compartment under the rear seat.
But I would get a -16 code(over voltage) after a full charge so I purchased 3 1N5404 diodes(3A) and put them in series with the white(pin 1 on the controller) wire which is connected to the fuse along with the battery cable. This battery cable was pulled from the front battery compartment and the previous cable on the fuse was removed since we don’t need additional batteries involved. The 3 diodes drop the voltage by ~2.2V from 88V and that seemed to be enough.
Performance and charge capacity has been greatly improved.
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The 3 diode drop of ~2.2V was not enough when the charger input power was recycled and it continued a topping charge of 4.0V/cell(22S). A 4th diode will be added and a 2nd string of 4 will be added to help dissipate the heat).
My first test of range resulted in ~23 miles after the battteries were charged to ~3.95V(86.9V) and discharged to 3.45V(75.9V). 3.40V is spec’ed to be 100aH of ~112Ah capacity so don’t want to go lower than that. I should get a bit better mileage this week since my tires were down to 25PSI so I pumped them up to 30PSI( max 35 PSI ).
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took it down to 3.45V again and got 22.7 miles so the little extra air in the tires didn’t change much. I’m going to do a balance charge on it( all cells to 4.0 ) and then try putting on the Prius wheels/tires and see how it does.
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Can’t help but think something else is going on.
Odometer correct?
Any chance you have 1/2 the capacity you think?
Anything sucking that much juice should get hot.
Does your bms track wh in and out?
A wireless power meter is less than $50
I used google maps to spec my route distances. The new Leaf modules are new design and the specs say each bag of the 4S2P module is 56Ah so 2P gets 112Ah. There’s probably another 5 miles in the tank since I’m stopping at 3.45V/c since one battery is low and already at 3.40V. I’ll balance the pack and see how things go the next time.
I’ll ask if the master module is intended to work with a current shunt to display power in/out. Right now, I have a chinese wireless unit on there but only use it for reference as it’s not accurate.
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One of the interesting side effects of a solid performing battery is the effects it has when the -11 error code shows up while driving. The vehicle easily hits 27-30 MPH but when the -11 hits at those speeds there is a massive regen action which pitches everyone forward as the car decelerates. A quick release of the pedal and then back on the throttle gets us back to speed.
I have replaced the switch in the pedal with a new one and reseated all cables under the dashboard.
This is a 2002 so the suspension is pretty harsh and this generally happens on bumps although at speed, relatively small bumps seem to cause it too.
I’m thinking of trying to put a capacitor across the throttle switch pins at the controller in hopes any short lived glitches can be filtered. Any ideas are welcome.
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Worth a shot. Manual says to check P3 voltage with nothing connected. Should be 0v.
The capacitor would go from P3 to B-. About .47uf ?. A meg ohm might be needed across larger cap for a discharge path.
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not sure if it’s a quick noisy thing or a longer duration thing. starting with .47uF should be a good starting point and go bigger if it doesn’t help. Thanks for the pin mapping for the T1 controller.
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Regarding that very pesky code -11 I was getting; I fixed it. Darn thing was the contactor and I tried everything else. From throttle switch replacement, cleaning wire connectors and even emery cloth on the contactor(while assembled). But today I went at it with the dash off and driving it around trying to trigger it yet having it trigger on its own. That is until I stopped it, put the foot brake on and gave it throttle while trying to force the -11 and throttle cut-out. Nothing until I slapped the contactor with my hand!
Took the 4 long screws out, put a file across the outside 2 contacts and then figured out a way to get a file onto both the inside contacts while in place. Reassembled and slapped the contactor silly and it would not throw a -11. Drove it hard and fast around the block and smooth as could be.
Now I know so in 5 years, if it does it again, I’ll know where to start this time.
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well, for documentation sake I will say that the -11 code was not from the contactor but instead the 72V going into the dc-dc converter next to the contactor. the 72V going into the converter is on the far right side of converter and end of all the wires.
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Just got a 2002 E825 a few days ago as a project for my son and I. It has been sitting for the last three years 
and was in need of some love. I found your documentation very informative. Thanks for taking the time to type it in.
I’m just down the hill from you and over the bridge. Our tallest hill here is 20’.
-It came with two flat tires. Doing the cost and knowing what I am willing to spend. I have decided to do 185/60R14 tires with new wheel (4x100, 38mm offset). Some said their studs were 10mm, my stock studs are 12mm.
-I need to install the new bushing
-I need to flush the brake lines
-I need to do some body work, chipping the old clear coat off (good job for my son) and re-spray them.
-I had to bring the gel batteries back to life. I’m yet to see what power they’ll hold.
-I ordered the lights you found. Did you end up printing a new outer ring for them?
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Should be a fun project @rwillia4. If your wheel studs are all 12mm and they are all drums then someone did some work already. Stock is 10mm. Since I put on the front disc brake upgrade with the spacer I have 12mm in the front but the stock rear drums are 10mm and I need to replace. Just purchased an impact driver for the job and just need to get the studs now.
All of my shock bushings are still shot and in serious need of replacement. If you find the right size replacement, please let post the link.
I’ve not bothered making a ring for the lights. They seem to be holding in place just fine without them.
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My lower front bushings were also shot. I couldn’t find the shock bushings so I cast some in urethane. Let me know if you need some I can cast some more.
I also made the ring for the lights. I can send you the file of you want to print them.
next- I have to pull my diff and find, order, replace some bearings. Then get the cart back together.
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