Just purchased 2002 e825-4 where to start rejuvenation?

I have a used (22 Teeth) From a 99 e580 that appears to be in pretty good shape. ph 865 414 2318 $125.00 Roy

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Thanks Roy but since I’ll be putting in a new motor, I think I’ll have to bite the bullet on the more expensive new part.

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Installed the disc brakes today and here are some things I did which others might find valuable.

First thing I did was spray the brake line and retainer clips on each wheel. Then loosened the lugs and center spline nut, then jacked it up and removed the wheels and the center spline nut. 15 minutes after applying WD-40 I unscrewed the LF wheel/side brake line and removed the retainer clip.

Now I used a deep socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing and subsequently the brake drum and pulled it off. I then reamed the brake line bracket hole every so slightly because the new part is a tiny bit bigger.

After putting all the new parts on, I then bled the brake line with a small hose. Bending it closed on the brake pedal upstroke, unbending on the down stroke. I all but emptied the master cylinder, refilled it and then emptied it 2 more times to get fresh fluid in there.

Then I screwed the new brake line into the caliper, fixed it into the holder with the clip, added the adapter to the brake line just finger tight before then inserting the brake line and adapter into the new flexible brake line side. It’s easier to add the adapter first then try to get the small ridged brake line connector into the adapter after it’s already installed. Now install your wheel or spacer and then bleed the caliper. I used 2 lug nuts and a long 3/4" box end wrench to keep the rotor from spinning while I tightened the spline shaft nut and bolting on the spacer. One end of the box wrench goes on a lug nut, the shank of the wrench rests on a flat surface of the other lug nut. Others use thin strips of wood but this worked great since I had a long 3/4" box end wrench.

A note on the spacer(for stock 12" wheels ). They come with lug nuts on them and those are to be used to attach the spacer to the hub. The lug nuts in the kit/bag are for holding the wheel on. They are different.

Do the same to the other side except you don’t have to empty the master cylinder to clear the fluid. But you do have to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and top it off. If you empty it then you have to rebleed not only your front brakes but also the rear too. But you should bleed the rear anyways since you’re using new fluid.

The disc brakes work GREAT! One foot stopping and I feel way more comfortable at top speeds, going down hills and/or driving fully loaded.

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Update, I was sent the wrong rear wheel cylinders so I popped the LR brake to verify and found seeping cylinders and wet shoes. At ~$70 for rear shoes, I think not only will I be cleaning them but I’m going to pull the shoes from the front brakes I’m sending back as a core. There must be gold in these brake shoes.

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Darn it, the brake shoes are held on with some big washer like disk with what looks like a rivet and I can’t get the front shoes off.

UPDATE: Thanks Rodney for explaining that it’s really a big pin socket the shoes ride on. I was able to get the off once the wheel cylinder and a spring were removed.

And now I know why it took 2 feet to brake previously. Not only were the 2 rear brakes all wet with leaking brake fluid but one of the front was slightly wet too. The thing should have been pulling to one side but it wasn’t. With dry brakes in the back and new discs in the front it brakes VERY nicely now.

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Just put in the new LED headlights. Pretty much a drop-in replacement. But I might design some small crescent shapes and 3D print them to make it more of a complete fit. The new ones are a bit narrower top/bottom than the originals so there’s a tiny gap top/bottom.
It’s dark outside now so I went for a ride and these are bright. Defaulted they seem to be pointed straight ahead so the 2 bright rectangle regions are nicely parallel and with a small gap between yet fills the lane up ahead without bleed into the next lane. And there’s no neat off these things where the old ones would be hot on even a short drive. Yay on the inexpensive LED headlight replacement.

Here’s a couple of pics of the new disc brakes installed

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I’m interested in the LED headlights: what did you install and where did you find them? thanks

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I got them on AliExpress, the product title: 2Pc Car LED Work Light Offroad Lights 20W 6500K Spot Beam Led Chips Flood&Spot Driving Lamp Sportlight for 10-30V DC Vehicle SUV

here’s the link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pc-Car-LED-Work-Light-Offroad-Lights-20W-6500K-Spot-Beam-Led-Chips-Flood-Spot-Driving/32797976680.html

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Picked up a 120V 200A power management monitor where the display is wireless and both units(sender/display) were ~$25. Put it in yesterday off of the B- leg of the motor controller. Seems to work pretty good but I don’t yet know what the drain on the batteries are. In milliAmps so I’m not too worried. Today I saw just over 200A on accelerations and once cruising up a slight hill it was stead around 80A.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-120V-100A-Wireless-Digital-LCD-Display-Digital-Current-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Power-Energy-Multimeter-Panel-Tester/32722203334.html

I finally received my bluetooth serial port( HC-06 ) and fairly soon will wire up an Arduino ProMini or Nano and put some temperature sensors on the motor case. All before I start looking into tweeking the programming in preparations for installing a used 7.5HP motor.

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Hey Doug. Fellow OBecian here. I just bought a 2002 like yours. I read you replaced your headlights. They still working well? I did some night driving the other night and realized a headlight upgrade is probably in order. We’d like to drive to liberty station at night but I don’t feel comfortable doing that with these stock ones. Thanks.

Pablo

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Yes, working great otherwise I would have posted to this thread.

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We just had lots of rain in SoCA and I did have to run the GEM in it some and it was parked outside so she saw water and lots of it. A couple of days after the rain I went to take her out for a spin and when I got back and gave her 110VAC power to charge there was a 2 tone beeping coming from the Zivan and the dashboard LED was blinking yellow.

I looked up the code and it said the temperature probe was out of spec. Recalling that the temp probe was on a plug at the top of the Zivan charger, I unplugged it and was able to recharge the batteries. Looking at the sensor, it was in the bottom of the battery pan so it’s probable there was water in there and if the potting compound or seal had cracked, water got into the sensor.

My question for the group is what part is in the end of that cable so I can replace it since after 4 days of warm weather it still says the sensor is out of spec?

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Rodney says to run without it.
The Delta-Q uses a 10k thermistor. Pretty standard.
I don’t know what value Zivan uses.
Check value at charger and at sensor to see if its the same. Might be a connection.
If sensor is open or shorted it is most likely bad.

ha, if it’s just a thermistor then I might have a replacement in my 3D printer parts bags.

The fact it worked perfectly before the rain and even after I ran it for a bit in the rain and only failed a few days after having had to sit through heavy rains and the end at the batteries(sensor end) was wet I’m pretty sure it got moisture inside an is effecting its resistance.

I’ll dig around for what it’s valid resistance range is, make a measurement and see if something in my parts bins works.

I was going to zip-tie it to the metal battery post since that’s the best place to measure battery temp but like many things, I didn’t get to it in time.

The temp sensor is an LM335 IC

And the DIN connection is to pins 4 and 5.
Order is 1-4-2-5-3

Interestingly, I clipped off the sensor at the end of the outer casing(red and blue wire coating left on sensor end for patching later ) and yet when I plug in the DIN connector I still getting the blinking yellow and beeping warnings.

Eventually, I will open the DIN connector and see what gives. I was hoping for at least keeping the charging LED.

Nice blog on LM35 and LM335 sensors

http://blog.damnsoft.org/temperature-sensors/

hint: common LM35( I have bunches of these ) is rated output in C while the LM335 output is in K( as in Kelvin)

Thank you for the heads up on the lights. I just purchased them on amazon !

Any other recommendations?

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Watch the the Bolt thread.
A lithium conversion that may overcome the weight distribution problem with early model Gems.

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