Hello all! I have just completed a total rebuild of a 2002 4 seater. I’ll be powering it on for the first time and looking for some guidance on the order to power up the car and test each system with safety in mind. Here’s the back story and components:
I purchased a parts car that had nearly all components either installed or in boxes. No batteries so wasn’t able to test anything at purchase. I did some bench testing on the throttle pedal, switches and such. Everything tested fine. I did NOT test the T2 controller, DC-DC, BDI or main relay. I have installed a new lithium 72v pack and new charger that came with the battery. Removed the Zivan and by-passed the charger interrupt (RedGrn spliced to Grn to Timer&Relay). I have tested all mechanicals; brakes, steering, suspension, gearbox etc are good to go. I cleaned all terminals and connectors. All wiring connected, fuses tested and did continuity testing on all the 12v system and most everything else (DID NOT test the T2 controller, DC-DC, BDI or main relay).
Components Installed:
Lithium Rhino 72v
Lithium Rhino Charger (Zivan Removed)
T2 controller
GE 7.5hp motor
Sure Power DC-DC converter (Factory Recall looked professionally done)
Stock Main Contractor
Stock Throttle Pedal (welder style)
Here’s the order I was thinking:
Fully charge battery
Power up battery
Check for 72v at main fuse
Remove all 12v fuses
Power up DC-DC
Check for 12v at fuse block and grounds
Install fuse for flasher - test
Install fuse for Head lights - test
Install fuse for Horn - test
Install fuse for Break lights - test
Install wiper fuse - test
test all other 12v components
Raise front - tires off the ground
power on key switch
test relays, timer,etc
check for error codes and correct
test throttle
test road/turf switch
test FnR switch
Once all is clear and tested - put in turf mode and slowly test drive
Am I missing anything?
Is there a better order so I dont fry anything?
Any advice would help!
Thanks in advance!!!
I think the important thing would be to verify the B+ and B- are not mixed up on the cables going forward.
If you have not already powered up the battery:
Unplug the DC Converter at the converter harness plug
and
detach one of the main power cables on top of the controller. (pos or neg).
Then power ON the battery, MainBattSwON(if still present) and check that B+ is on the large stud at the main fuse (ref B- NEG) on top of the controller.
If all looks well, Power down, the battery, hook things up again, power back up again and watch the PID dash display for the power up sequence/pre charge routine.
Pulling out all the fuses is unnecessary- IMO. But if you wish..
Initial tests would be within the radius/distance of being able to push the car home. If you have a football player available, bring him along. If you live on a hill, go uphill.
Thx! This is very helpful. Ill double check continuity of the B+ and B- then follow your guidance on power up before testing the 12v Circuits. I guess i shpuld print out all the error codes first.
Is this a fan cooled GE 7.5? If so, how the hell did you get that to fit in a 2002? Short of upgrading the entire front end to 2005+, or some major fabri-cobblling and s BFSH (Big Farking Sledge Hammer) to move stuff around with the stock 99-04 front end or having the wheel on one side stick out about an extra 10"? A “long GE 5 hp” from 2006+ won’t even fit the 99-04 front end, the fan cooled GE 7.5 from the late model e6 and elxd is even bigger…
Its actually a Frankenstein with some crazy fabrications. I acquired 3 parts cars. The chassis is a 2008 and has clean title. All the electrical was from the pre 2004 and only mentioned that since im only diagnosing that gen equipment. Plus its a battery that i can utilize in so many different applications.
@AssyRequired i was just trying to keep it simple with getting help with testing and power up of the elec system. The entire electrial system is pre 2004 with the dc recall the only modification. Nothing funky from the PO.
Chassis and mechanicals are a whole different story. Ha. This project is definitely not a true restoration. Its more of a “mutant vehicle” used for festivals and parades. It features a giant octopus that wraps around the entire car. The octopus is made up of 8 strings of audio reactive leds controlled by a microphone so it syncs to the music it hears.
Shitcan the stick headlights for LEDs. You’ll thank me later
1157 red leds in the seatback red DRLs is a good idea too. I put “ultrs-brights” in my 02 and it was amazebslls how much further back people drive from me at night
Well, that just your pet name for it… but fair warning, not many can out there that can take it in all at once. It often takes a few minutes because t’s HUUUUUUGE!!!
