As you may have figured out- the pedal is connected directly to the controller, so testing the pedal voltages should keep contained to the controller environment. (you appear to be doing that correctly)
I am confused at your pot voltage results. Up in Post10:
I got 5v at high, ground was good. Wiper gave me 3.6v at all positions.
Confirm that you see: (all ref controller NEG)
+5 on the White wire at the pot
0v on the Red wire at the pot (no matter the position of wiper- even at the extremes)
@AssyRequired correct. Kind of.
When i had the pedal connected, powered and pedal at any position, 5v at white, black at 3.6v and red at 5v. When powered, the red get 5v from white thru the pot. But when i disconnect the pedal from the 8pin (MH19) i tested 5v from pin 9 (white), 0v from pin 8 (red) and still the 3.6v from pin 7 (black).
I think you are missing the point in my query.
If you rotate the wiper to either extreme it should be equal to whatever tab it is parked on at that extreme. If the wiper remains constant (3.6v?) through the entire range, there may be something wacky with your pot (but you changed pots) or perhaps your testing procedures may be flawed?
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When are you next back out at the cart and can do the test I suggested back in my post 18?
I will reprint it again so you don’t need to scroll back up for a look.
Test the pedal ground Conditions: Main Batt Sw ON. Pedal plugged into harness.
Meter set to DCV 200v scale(whatever you have)
Black meter probe on the pedal ground wire at the pot (the red one) Red meter probe on B- (Neg post on the controller)
What do you get? (expect 0)
Then move your Red meter probe over to B+ (Pos on the controller). (Leaving the Black meter probe on the pedal/pot ground)
What do you get? (expect PackV)
Report back with your results and further instruction.
Just a quick comment on testing controller pots and inputs, the controller generally generates the 5V (ref) voltage internally and the 0v(ref) may or may not be isolated from batt(0v). Be sure that you are referencing (black lead of your meter) the 0v(ref) on the pot. The voltage may be isolated from batt(0v) and get a “weird” voltage if referencing the wrong base (0v) voltage.
This is just common testing practice - I do not know the internals of the T2 controller
Did some more testing and it got more complicated.
Test the pedal ground Conditions: Main Batt Sw ON. Pedal plugged into harness.
Meter set to DCV 200v scale(whatever you have)
Black meter probe on the pedal ground wire at the pot (the red one) Red meter probe on B- (Neg post on the controller)
What do you get? I got -4.6!
Then move your Red meter probe over to B+ (Pos on the controller). (Leaving the Black meter probe on the pedal/pot ground)
What do you get? (expect PackV) Got packV
@Inwo
Here’s the voltage test from the pot wires
white to red = 4.6
white to black = 4.6
black to red= 4.6
this didn’t change when pedal up or down
So I tested the wire from pin7 to Batt- lug. Same 4.6v with the pedal plugged or unplugged.
So I am thinking theres a short somewhere that feeding the voltage to the controller.
I tested Batt- lug to chassis and got 76.4v!
Started tracking this down and here’s how far I got:
Removed the fuse, still 72v to chassis
unplugged the DC-DC, still there
removed the white wire from the B+ lug and it went away!
So the white wire from B+ stand off lug is the culprit. I’ll start from there and work my way thru the components and connectors.
No- Stop.
Ignore that for now.
You can track that down later.
Try this.
Run a jumper wire from the red wire at the pot over to your closest B- source. (on top of your controller)
For safety, install a small fuse inline with this jumper wire. (like a 5a)
Do the above tests again.
What are your readings on your wiper (the black wire)
Throttle up?
and Throttle down?
Does it climb as you roll into pedal?
If readings are correct, KeyON and see if error clears on the display.
Handbrake down and expect the MC to slap closed.
Motor may even go.
Reply back with your results and further instructions.
@AssyRequired you’re a genius!
Hooked up the jumper.
Got 3.6 white to red
Black to red 0.1 when pedal up, 3.6v when pedal down.
Key switch on. No error codes. Front tires off ground. I put it in drive and tires spun!
So i just hand a bad ground? What do you recommend for permanent fix?
Thank you so much for your time and patience! This made my day!
I suspect the connection (pin9) in your 23pin Main Harness connector on top of your controller is not making contact between the Female pin/socket and Male pin in the controller.
This pin/reference to B- pulls down the pedal supply voltage to zero on the low side of the pot. Without this anchor, you get the steady readings through the swing of the wiper.
The female pin can get stretched out if something (such as a meter probe) is forced into the pin when checking wiring.
There is a fix, but it takes a good set of eyeballs(or magnifiers) and some steady hands.
@AssyRequired ill clean out the connections at the 23pin and the 8 pin and try to repair them too. If that doenst work, ill be okay with a new wire to B- lug.
Not sure I did much here for you, I mostly just stayed out of it and not interfere with @AssyRequired and @Inwo as they helped you troubleshoot it.
I am however, very good with helping on charting out plan B which involves bullets, napalm, a bulldozer and rocket fuel if you what to go that way with the gem.
Ha. I’m seeing the theme here and definitely have felt the need to destroy something in this rebuild process. The learning curve is steep with these things!
The T1 and T2 controllers are the easiest and simplest controllers to work with and reprogram. Nothing is locked. The differentials from 00-04 were, imo, the best ratios for the DC motor gem years.
A lot of people don’t like the welding pedal for the T1 & T2, but I think a lot of that stems from unfamiliarity. It’s not like an automobile, it’s more like a powered industrial truck (forklifts, pallet tugs, order pickers, etc). You can do stuff with that pedal you can’t do with later ones. 2 turns lock to lock on the steering is something out of some PITs and a lot of golf carts. But it’s nothing like a car. GEMs aren’t cars.
The T4 & T5 do a better job at regen, but they have some locked parameters that can be a PITA. The T3 is an abomination.
The 00-04 have the 2nd shittiest design suspension imaginable. he original Schott chargers were one trick ponies and the Zivan NG1 was one of the first succuessfull HF chargers, but it had to be compact and relied on a 25mm muffin fan for cooling, those don’t last 20 years, especially outdoors, so when that fan went tango-uniform, thecharger did shortly thereafter. The original DC-DC converters were recalled due to fire hazard, then the replacements were recalled too for the same thing. The frame construction sucked those years, the weight distribution can cause grief when modifying the batteries. That’s why they deserve to be shot and burned, not because drive electronics based on 30 year old design outsmarted users with fancy DMMs.