Ok, then leave the controller floating(not mounted), and remove the F1 and F2 wires off the top of the controller. (These are easy. They just pull off)
If still present,
Then go for the A1 then the A2. Carefully isolate the cables so they dont spring off in a direction and ground out when testing.
From previous
When unplugged the 2 wires from the motor the voltage dropped to around 2v more or less.
That instruction was for the 2 wire motor temp sensor. It has a plug down on the end of motor. (not to be confused with the Speed sensor which has the 3 wire plug.
Was this not correct?
Today I was talking about the F1 and F2 wires. they have their own wires/plugs directly on top of the motor controller.
Correct when I unplugged the temp sensor the 2 (orange and black) wires from motor the voltage dropped significantly to 2v.
When removed F1 & F2 voltage 72v still there.
Removed A1 first and voltage all over the place with a clicking sound.
Remove A1 & A2 voltage still there. Connect A1 and voltage all over the place with clicking sound.
Interesting. Faint clicking?
Are any of your wires touching things they should not be?
Now that your Motor wires are disconnected from controller we can see if any of them are shorting to chassis.
Power off at MainSwitch (don’t need it).
Switch your meter to Ohms.
Place one meter probe on a clean spot on Chassis.
Place the other meter probe on the cable formerly connected to A1.
Do you get a reading? or OL on your meter?
Do same for A2
Do same for F1
Do same for F2
Report back with findings.
Still voltage of 78v
Ok. Go ahead and put your car back together and run it as it is.
If you aren’t even going to try and read my instructions, I have much better things to do.
I’m out.
My apologies didn’t see last message. Will follow directions.
A1 23kOhm
A2 24kOhm
F1 & F2 OL
Thank you for patience
Not touching anything
