Ford think no pedal response

Hi everyone, back again for another round of troubleshooting 101.

Little update, got my cluster back from scott in Cali. Worked great but the previous owner bought crappy batteries and they were toast. Bought all new and away i went. People up here in Canada dont see many of these around. They loved it and i do too.

So heres my issue, went golfing the other week and just got on the course heading to the clubhouse when we went over a big bump and hit hard on back end. Enough to throw some stuff around, keys even fell out of switch. Anyways, once we picked ourselves back up and to keep going, pressed the pedal and nothing! Turned it back off and on, still nothing. Had to leave it on the side of 18 for the entire round. Made me sad to see it there dead. When we were swinging by on 10 when we decided to go down to it and quickly take a peek. Hit the switch again and i noticed this time, the contactor wasnt snapping on after hitting the switch?!?

Have done the tests on the petontiometer, all passed wxcept for 1, the resistance when pedal is pressed between pin 7-8 of the MC. Have measured voltage straight to contactor coil wires. B+ from clister and b- coming from MC. i dont get anything. Checked both wires for continuity from their respective locations and it checks out good. Checked voltage between cluster coil wire (red) to battery and got 72 volts even when with switch off.

Cant see it being the contactor buggered but sure seems to me like it is. But getting 0 on that one accelerator resistance test throws me there too. I mean it was only a bump and its taking everything to figure this out. I do notice that cluster when power is on makes a clicky sound like a relay pulling in about every 15 seconds. Dont know if thats it trying to talk to something. Anyways. Seeing if there something im missing before i start ordering expensive parts trying to guess at it. Didnt proofread so sorry for spelling, doing this on a phone :smile:

Thanks in advance


First thing you should do is check it for codes. With the contactor not closing it will most likely have a code.

Codes show up on the cluster? Dont remember seeing a wrench come up on screen

I seen something online that you have to go through using the select/reset button but mine doesn’t seem to scroll through anything. When i pushed it once, nothing happened, if i held it down, nothing either. When i turned the key to drive, the screen lights up but is beeping like i have the key in reverse, i turned the key to turf and the screen flickered at me. Then i could smell a bit of electrical smell. Ive already had this cluster fixed from Scott from eim, ive tried to contact him but got nothing back. Ive used this thing like 8 times and its busted again (the cluster possibly) frustrating to say the least

When you put in the new batteries did you secure them?
Is it possible the bump that you describe grounded one of the terminals up against the frame?

I cant see that cause i had all the factory braces that came with it back on after replacing the batteries but i will check. Plus i have all the rubber booties that cover the terminals so very highly unlikely. Cant see how a bump could screw up the cluster. Man do these carts have issues.

Also wouldnt there only be an error code if the wrench comes up on the cluster? what kind of cable plugs into the cluster? Looks like some special network cable but not anything i have. Not a standard cat5 or 6. Is there no way to bypass the cluster all together and run the MC and ultimately the motor staright off the petentiometer? Im sure theres a way

So i turned on the cart with the backside of the cluster exposed to see what happens when i put it turf mode when it flickers as explained earlier. And the back of the board smokes at the corner of the 20 pin connector right where scott soldered in one of his connections for the heat sink. But only happens in turf… in drive and reverse screen lights up fine but contactor still not pulling in!!!

Sounds like Scott needs to repair your cluster again