Hello all…2005 E2. Original error code was 51. Checked batteries and all in range.
So, turned on key…error 51
Removed dash and depressed main contact and error code 51 is replaced by error code 24.
Any suggestions…thanks
Removed dash and depressed main contact
First- Never do this again!!.
90% of the time it won’t help you. 10% of the time you might get lucky. 70% of the time the inrush of current into the controller will damage the controller.
From the Tech Doc
-51 Capacitor volts are low before the line contactor closes.
This status code will be displayed during “key on” when the capacitor volts is less than 85% of battery volts at initial key switch on.
This is not a battery issue, but more a controller pre-charge issue.
When was the last time this car was operating properly?
Measure across the Pos and Neg on top of the controller and look for PackV at KeyON. (You should see up around 75V)
At the same time, Measure the Orange Wire on the Main Contactor Ref B- on the PSDM. You should also see PackV.
Report back with your results.
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Hello all…2005 E2. Original error code was 51. Checked batteries and all in range. Controller model is R7A*******T3.
So, turned on key…error 51
Removed dash and depressed main contact and error code 51 is replaced by error code 24.
Any suggestions…thanks
Thank you for the response. The Gem is driven daily..just abruptly stopped with the 51 code.
0 V across the p and n on the controller…expected this since the contractor won’t close…I’m a right on that.
Main battery p/n on contractor…78v
White wire on contractor 78v
Green black on contractor 73 V
No orange wire on contactor
No orange wire on contactor
Right. I forgot that 05 cars were still getting sorted out back then. One of the changes was they used White wires in a lot of places that were changed to Orange later.
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just abruptly stopped with the 51 code.
Hmmm… I was under the impression -51 was part of the power up pre-check routine that is initiated at (KeyON) that keeps the car from starting rather than a runtime code that will stop the car during operation.
If a power up test, this means something happened when your were driving that caused the controller to reboot. and go through the start up checks again. You may have just looked down and saw that it stopped on the -51.
This hints an some underlying issue.
This does not cover the fact that it has a -51 now.
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0 V across the p and n on the controller…expected this since the contractor won’t close…I’m a right on that.
Yes and no. You won’t see B+ on Pos because the Contactor is open at this point, BUT you should see B+ on POS When KeyON due to the precharge circuit. (hopefully your test included KeyON condition).
This is what the code -51 is complaining about.
This condition can be caused by a couple of things and why I had you probing the Orange (or White) wire trying to track it down.
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Main battery p/n on contractor…78v
Note that when probing across the top of the contactor, there is no POS and NEG, but more like IN/OUT. Measuring across the main cables is actually measuring the difference or potential between the two points being tested. In this case the IN has a direct connection back to B+. The OUT has a direct line to the POS on top of the controller and that is more/less resting at near zero at this point. (which also tells me the caps are not being pre-charged). [going back to your Key state when you were testing].
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White wire on contractor 78v
This tells me your Key was ON when testing. This white wire comes from the same place as the P1 wire that goes to your controller.
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Green black on contractor 73 V
(If referenced to B-) This tells me your coil is good on the contactor.
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Follow so far?
Yep got it…thanks. My sneaking suspicion is short in engine blew the controller.