Controller programming required for D&D Motor?

Thanks! I think I’ve made up my mind to go lithium. If something happens, ill let you know and stick with the gels.

I have not. I assumed the switch was good because it used to kick into high gear sometimes when the batteries were fully charged and it was warm out.

Do you know the voltage off the top of your head from the switch? I have the manual and can dig it up if not.

I will have to check

And the saga continues. I’m now thinking it’s not a battery or motor issue but perhaps it’s a bad drive selector switch. I’m getting 78v to the controller and when I test pins 4 and 6 i’m getting 78v at pin 4 on both selections (with the controller disconnected). The controller can’t be knocking it down to turtle because it’s not even going through the controller when I’m testing.

I’ve replaced the throttle, controller, controller wiring, (soon to replace the batteries) and I’m hoping there is a way to test the switch (or spoof the switch) to see if I can narrow down the issue. I’m tired of replacing everything and still not solving the issue.

Any ideas on how to test or spoof the drive mode switch?

Edit: I’m not getting a turtle display on my dash. When I was referring to turtle - I just mean stuck in “Low”.

The car will drive when High gear is selected but the dash shows low. When I switch to low gear, and press the accelerator, I get an error code 6.

That’s how turtle works. It’s the Gem psdm that monitors the voltage for soc and turtle mode.
Disconnect the turf wire at controller to lock it in high.
It won’t fix your battery problem, but it will keep your speed up.

Just read your edit. Ill need to think on that.

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Ok, 6 is no direction selected. If switch is working it’s the psdm that is interupting the signal from 4 or 6.
You can route the wires direct from switch to pins 4, 5, and 6. Eliminating psdm from causing issues with mode selection.

Are you sure the wires at f-r switch have not been mixed up?

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Thanks. I’ll give it a shot.

Fairly certain I have not mixed them up. I was just testing from the switch and did not move the wires.

3 wires leave the switch f, r, t.
They go to the psdm which send signal to dash indicator. Get that working first.
The mode signal goes through the logic in psdm then to controller.
Logic is mainly to switch from high to low when there is a dip in voltage. This lights up the turtle and latches until the next charge cycle.
The controller will see this as pin 4 (f mode) staying high and pin 6 going high (low speed).
Worse case, pull turf and reverse pins,(23pconnector). Connect forward pin to B+ to lock in high.

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Thanks - just paid for the batteries. I’ll hook yours up before messing with the wires.

Got my batteries from @Inwo in the mail today and I’m excited to get them installed! Quick question - I noticed the rear batteries are connected to the front batteries through this fuse. Do I need to run through the fuse with the new lithium setup or can they go directly to the PDSM?

Does anybody know what this is? Is it needed on the new lithium’s?

Must be a temperature sensor.
Connect the fuse inline anywhere. Are you putting some batteries up front? You need the weight up there.

Does it need to be in between a positive and negative terminal or can I keep it all on positive?

I have an E6 - I was planning keeping them all in the back.

Anywhere pos or neg. Same for the switch.
It’s been reported that you lose all spring action without weight in the front.

If all in the same place, lay them out on a bench to see if you can make the bus bars work. Two long ones if you need to cross the frame.

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So what happened, the suspense is killing me! I’ve been searching through posts looking for a solution to a problem I’m having, I would love to know how this turned out! Update please!
thx

Hey there -

So R4F did replace the controller but I was still having the problem with going into the forward gears. Only reverse would work. I did test the car out in reverse and it appears that my loss of power issue has been resolved. However, while trying to fix my forward issues - the brake light stays on and will not engage in any gear now. It seems like every time I touch this thing, something else bad happens.

I don’t have time to mess with this and it’s going back to the dealer on Monday. I’ll update you when I find out what it is but I’m tired of trying and getting not resolution.

Lol great, thanks for the update! I am having code 43 issue on a 2015 e6, I’ll post something up in a different thread when I figure it out, maybe help someone out that is having the same issue in the future.

I don’t have the manual on this computer but I’ll see if I can provide any insight on the code. However, I do not feel qualified to give any advice at this point because I seem to cause more problems than solve them!

I’ll update this thread once I (the dealer) figures out what’s wrong.