Advice on Rebuild of 2013 E4

My first post was about a FrankenGem that I bought. It turns out the seller had used a golf cart motor(6.1HP, 36V GE), a curtis controller, (4) 12v Trojan batteries. I have removed and sold the parts and would like to rebuild.

It does have the disc brakes, original Spicer gearbox(12.1), and everything else is stock.
I would need a new motor, controller, charger, and lithium setup.

I would be using the GEM mostly for cruising to the beach in my community and short trips around town. We live up a hill from the beach so would need the power for that. The roads outside our community are flat, but would probably be safer if I could run it at 30mph+.

Based on that any suggestions on which charger, controller, and lithium setup?

Thanks!

Other factors that may direct the suggestions:

Budget - Still around 7k set aside?
Car 2012 E4 - (Which is good)
Location - Puerto Rico - You need quite a few heavy components. Shipping is going to be complicated unless you have space for a couple of pallets in a container heading your way.
Original wiring harness stripped out - Going to be starting over. Might as well look into AC drive system.

What is your skill set? Mad Fab skills are going to be needed here. If going AC, you will need computer skills too.
What is in your toolbox? - Probably going to need more than a few hand tools, and a meter.

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Budget is still around 7k. I am close to even on it, so if I can build it out for 7k or a little more, I believe it is a good use of funds. Get a solid, fun, Gem that I can work on if necessary. There are not many Gem’s here. I could probably sell it for 2k and be in the +

I am possibly sending a container over for other items, but will also price out the shipping to see if it eats too much into my budget.

I will need to research the AC drive system. Is that just a better setup then buying original wire harness and installing?
I am a quick study. I have done a frame off resto on a 1983 G wagon and a 36’ Sailboat(including rebuild of Yanmar engine) with no prior knowledge. I have built my own computers(but its been years since that time). I have all the hand tools necessary.

I would prefer to keep this as simple as possible. I am not looking to make this a hot rod, or use it for anything other than I decribed.
When you say “Fab skills” are you referring to metal work? I did teach myself how to hand shape metal for custom parts for my G wagon. I do not have those tools with me and not sure why that would be necessary. Or the electrical components?

Many thanks for your reponse to help narrow down the suggestions! I have read alot of your comments on here and you are a big help.

Sounds like it could be pretty simple with the following:

Modern GEM 5Kw AC motor
Sevcon Size4 controller
SDI22 battery pack

Since the factory harness is gone the motor wiring is pretty simple - Forward/Reverse switch and On/Off is all you really need.
This will not help with your lights, turn signals and such but the car would drive.

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Mike, I have a 5kw ac motor if you do not.
Excellent suggestion, and may simplify, bypassing some of the problem classic Gem issues.

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I don’t have any of the parts currently ( that I can spare) but I can help with wiring diagrams and programming.

the motor and battery are HEAVY - so that could be an issue.

Would this setup work well…Late model Gem kit with controller, harness, and 8k motor $1800
For the 12v components, couldnt I run a seperate battery like grant did?
Or is it better to have a 5kw motor?

Which charger would be ideal for this setup?

This would work, I @Inwo and i built that kit.
You would not need the PCB and we would have to reroute the harness wires to new locations as you do not have factory wiring.

For the 12v components just use a DC/DC converter like the car has (or once had) 72v to 12v.

Charger - Delta Q, 72v charger would allow you to charge a wide range to battery voltages.
@Inwo may have one - we can also program the charger for you once a battery pack is chosen.

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I need to study up on the factory wiring configuration as it appears some of the original wiring is in place. The parts that are clearly not there is the multi-prong(not sure how many pins) cable from the controller, fuze panel, circuit board, lcd panel, DC/DC converter.
I did see the original wiring harness for sale on Ebay. Not sure if that is needed or helpful.
Is LithiumGods the best contact for the battery pack?

Start by showing us pics of the front shelf again, then take off the upper and lower section of the dash and show a few pics of what is left in there.

We might be able to use a few things.

A stand alone battery just for 12v accessories is a PITA. Better to use a DC Converter and a relay. Easy to hook up.

If your PSDM (fuse panel) is missing you will need one of those marine accessory fuse panels.

Do you need a speedo? There are some really nice Dial GPS units on Amazon.

The tray is empty. I only have one picture of the current wire harness(a 6 pin)


There is also a square connector wire that I have seen in other posts.
Noted on the stand alone 12v for accessories. I was just going off what I have seen in other setups online.
Ok, will start searching for a marine fuse panel.

Yes, there is no original speedo. I have seen a some units others have used on here. Some look pretty sweet with a tablet display. I may just start with using my phone gps and add it.
I am waiting to hear from @BadBrad about his Gem kit.
Thanks!

I have the universal Deltaq 72v charger with dc converter. Can program it for the lithium pack. If you dont have the factory 1fuse box , this is the way to go

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Awesome! I will search for the factory 1fuse box. Can you let me know how much for the battery pack and the charger? Shipping? I will do a deep dive into all the other conversions people have done so I am up to speed on the install process. Appreciate it! happy Sunday!

Since it appears that all the wiring configuration was changed to accomodate the Curtis controller/golf cart motor. Would this wire harness/fuse box from 99-04 be what I want…GEM car FRONT MAIN WIRING HARNESS W/FUSE BLOCK,98-04 2,4 or 6 SEAT,Used Factory | eBay
Or do I need to build my own? I am not seeing the number of pins necessary in my service manual for each hookup. Would like to get them ordered if I need to build them out.

No, that is not what you want. - Well I mean it would be start but it is not compatible with your car.
Your car had a PSDM module in the center of the dash, most of the wiring for the car branches out of that. If the PSDM is gone my opinion is to just build it yourself.
It is going to be a lot of work - it will not be that hard to just make the car drive but beyond that it get tedious. I did this on a 2016 model. Just take time and some out-of-the-box thinking to get all the lights, turn signals, brakes lights, etc all working.

Thanks for that. There is no PDSM module(thanks for the reference material, I do not have that in the one I found online). All the lights, turn signals, brake lights are working with the setup as is(was). They are just wired direct(with no fuse panel). I will need a fuse panel to protect the components. It was just setup as 48V golf cart(Curtis controller, 6.1HP GE motor, Allbright 48v reversing contactor, and 48v DC contactor). All that is cleared out and sold.
Will continue to read up to figure out what number pins and how to hook them up. What other items I will need to both run and have electrical components working. Appreciate all the knowledge and help!

Agree with Mike. It would be far better to start over. Going with early Gen1 car wiring would also be a handful and it would probably be hacked up by a previous owner anyway.

But I also realize that I consider a task easy may be a scary task for others. This is where I was asking about your skill set before suggesting such a project.

The PSDM was quite convenient from an assembly line view, but also complex little black box due to what it actually did for the car. It is also no longer made, and can be expensive to replace if you find one. It’s purpose can be replaced by a few stand alone components.

The entire car harness is centered around this box known as the PSDM (Power Supply Distribution Module). It is kind of a PITA and might be better if missing.

Starting with power distribution, see if you can get something like this. Get two. One will be for Constant 12v and one for Switched(keyON).

That is what I was thinking for the fuse blocks. I was considering the one with the cover(not sure if its worth the extra $$. I assume it stays dry under the dash. Sounds like not having the PSDM maybe a plus.
I may not be bright enough to be scared;) Time will tell if I am bright enough to get the electrical interface all working. I have 2 weeks available in September to give it a go. Hoping to line up the majority of parts I need in advance.