Am considering either 4wd p/u or perhaps a Subaru awd model. Anyone have any experience to share?
[QUOTE=mtngazer;3554]Am considering either 4wd p/u or perhaps a Subaru awd model. Anyone have any experience to share?[/QUOTE]
It would work i just feel like theres a lot of wasted energy in that…
is the car auto?
No, I would be targeting a 5-spd manual. I have a 94 Suzuki Sidekick (4 dr) that I might consider as well. I live approximately 3500 ft plus above sea level, and have enough winter weather to require 4wd or awd. My driveway can require 4wd in the winter. Are you refering to my energy or the EV’s? (:>))
It is possible, you just wouldnt have any kind of range with all the increased resistance. You would also be heavier thus easier to get stuck.
Further explanation: most vehicles, including my Suzuki, offer a part-time 4wd system, and remain in 2wd (rear wheel on p/u and Suzuki) unless manually shifted into 4wd high or low.
AWD, as in Subaru, put majority of power (90+%) to front wheels and shift power as sensors dictate in case of slippage.
So, I’m not sure that I would lose all that much energy to either configuration.
Has anyone tried either system, real world?
but the wieght from the 4wheeldrive parts is still there and still rotating going down the road .
Ok, so 4WD is not the first best choice for EV conversion. You have special needs and wish to convert a small 4WD. The Subaru is probably the best 4WD choice from an efficiency standpoint. The Subaru 4WD wagon may even have a decent GVW. The inline orientation of the Subaru engine could make for a very conventional conversion although the Subie engine is not very long.
As long as you consider the weight and 4WD component drag in your range calculations, you should be able to make this work. I am more concerned that with the added weight of the batteries, you will not be pleased with the performance on the hills you apparently have, especially with cold batteries.
-enganear
Why not just gut the entire drivetrain and replace it with a couple of these motors. http://www.e-traction.com/SM350.htm They are essentially 2 motors in one housing so you would not need to worry about having a differential. They also make large hub motors.
[QUOTE=Mango;4257]Why not just gut the entire drivetrain and replace it with a couple of these motors. http://www.e-traction.com/SM350.htm They are essentially 2 motors in one housing so you would not need to worry about having a differential. They also make large hub motors.[/QUOTE]
Mango:
THose are pretty sweet! 
If the vehicle you get doesn’t come with them you should be able to add on a set of hub locks that will unlock the front wheels from the 4WD system. This will let the front wheels freewheel going down the road. They can be had either manual (get out and turn a knob) or electric to relock them when 4WD is needed.
In addition, they make a little device that can be attached to the driveshaft that will unlock the driveshaft from the drivetrain, commonly used to allow vehicles to be towed behind RVs. This is when the RVer wants to have something for getting around the area they are visiting without having to take the whole house with them. This would eliminate any turning of the rest of the front wheel drivetrain by the EM. Here’s a picture of one along with a detailed explanation.
Use both, because if you just use the driveshaft disconnect you may still be turning the driveshaft and differential depending on how the 4WD setup is configured (if it has an autotrac feature, the transfer case turns the front driveshaft 100 percent of the time with the 4WD connection made in the front differential).
This would mean that you’d just be carrying the extra weight of a 4WD drivetrain, not spinning it, when it wasn’t actually needed. To take that into account, try to get as many fiberglass body parts as you can to lighten the vehicle. On a smaller vehicle you are only going to be looking at dropping 200lbs to match a 2WD version of the same vehicle.
FYI
Transfer case weight = 100-150 lbs
front solid diff = d44 300lbs, d30 200ish, I have no clue what IFS are.
Most 4x4’s are part time, it all depends on your tc, in all respects a 4x4 truck is 2wd until you put it in 4wd mode. Add the weight of the TC, drive shaft and front diff/parts. I am also doing a 4x4 conversion, but I am adding lots more batteries for longer range. I think I want something in the neighborhood of 100km to 250.
Geo Tracker, Suzuki Samurai, Kia Sportage and other 4X4’s have been converted. Check out http://www.evalbum.com/type to see what other people have done.
When I lived up north some folks would put bricks or old batteries in their trunk to get more weight on the drive wheels. The added weight could be an advantage for an EV on snow or ice over hard-top surface but a disadvantage for mud.
As far as range goes 40 miles seems to be what you should expect. If the 4 wheel drive system reduces range by 10% on an EV that would normally get 50 miles, you are still traveling 45 miles on a charge. That would meet the needs of the majority of today’s driver’s daily needs.